If your not using those brakes, pull of the drums and unbolt the four bolts holding on the backing plate, give a hit with a hammer and let it hang.
Give the backing plate a little tap, you don't have to hurt it. If the rear brakes are in good shape on the car you're fixing, do it on both cars. The brake and e brake cable will stay on the backing plates so you don't have to mess with them on eather car.
Good luck
Go to an auto parts store and buy "fuel line disconnect tools" They should come in a pack of 4. they look like little plastic donuts.
You have to use those to separate the compression fittings on the fuel lines at the engine. Then You un-hook the rubber hose at the fuel filter (gas tank end). After that just remove all the body screws or rivets that hold the fuel line to the chassis and pull it from under the car.
For the transmission fluid, passenger side of the tranny, there should be 2 plugs. They have a square drive insert. Put the head of your 3/8in ratchet in the UPPER plug first. It would be pointless to remove the drain plug, just to find out the upper fill plug won't come out. And you can't put any fluid back in your transmission.
It doesn't matter how much fuel is in the tank. The only gas that will spill is going to be what is left in the fuel lines.
I know you already got them loose, but for future reference....
Another trick to break a stubborn bolt loose, if the position allows, is to use the weight of the car against of the bolt. I've done this when I had to help a guy get a flat tire off some junky rusted old minivan.
Take your junk ratchet, an extension pipe and get the pipe end to be low to the ground. Put a floor jack under the end and start cranking away. Eventually it will either bend the bar, or break the bolt loose. Plus it is a bit safer than jumping on the end of a pipe, especially for those with bad knees.
Work smarter, not harder.
On the throttle cable you have to undo the retaining clip on the throttle body. Once that is un-done, the end of the cable pops off of a ball on the throttle blade. Just pry it off with a screwdriver.
On the V8?
There should be hoisting points on the drivers front and passenger back of the engine. They should be bolted to the block behind the header.
If you removed them when you went with aftermarket headers, then you're right. That won't work.
It's kind of risky, and I wouldn't want you to break a bolt off in the block. But some people will pull a bolt out of the header front drivers side and pass. rear. Then install a longer one. You put the longer bolt through one of the chain links then into the header and block. Pull then engine out from the middle of the chain, to keep everything somewhat balanced on the way out.
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