Your methodology for tracing down the root cause of the surge is similar to what I would have done. If you shut off all the "helpers" and make idle a purely mechanical thing (turn off the IAC all together so it's just the idle screw, timing advance, and AFR controlling idle speed/stability) and it still does it then there is no point in trying to "fix" it with closed loop idle enabled. In this scenario you hope you can find an AFR, idle speed, and advance that stabilizes idle (at least mostly, sometimes it won't stabilize completely) without any help from the IAC. Sometimes you have to go out of the "norms" with AFR and advance because some engines are just weird and like values that don't follow previous experience. Once you get it idle steady without the IAC involved, you can go back to closed loop idle and dial that in.
I don't have MS yet but it will be here in the next few weeks.Have you created a project for your car yet? Or I should ask do you have the MS yet?
It's asking how you want to view the file, you can view it as temporary which will delete any changes when your done.. (unless you "save as") or to upload the file onto an existing project, (usually "my car" is the default)....
The first time you connect to your MS (firmware upload withholding) it will ask you to create a project. You can create one without using the firmware detect option you must choose one from the drop menu I would suggest 3.4.2
Which Corrections are you talking about the manual tuning Corrections that I posted if that's the case then it's all just a matter of percentages no matter what the change in value will be linear.I don't have MS yet but it will be here in the next few weeks.
Thanks for the info. I've been researching for a long time. The settings are different from the ones in your video so I didn't know if I was actually viewing the file or the " preset " project.
Do you have a file I could print of the formulas for corrections ? Saw something in here but have no idea what page it was on.
Great ! That's what I needed. [emoji106]Which Corrections are you talking about the manual tuning Corrections that I posted if that's the case then it's all just a matter of percentages no matter what the change in value will be linear.
Want 11.5 | have 13 afr. | Ve block =100
Have/want= value
Value* Ve block = new value
New value= dead nuts correct
From what i see there is nothing wrong with your tune/Ign settings. You can turn on the noise filter for the crank input although I'm not sure it will help.... Are you using a stock balancer? some aftermarket ones have more than one set of marks.
Yes, but we verified that the timing is correct. I'm stumped.From what i see there is nothing wrong with your tune/Ign settings. You can turn on the noise filter for the crank input although I'm not sure it will help.... Are you using a stock balancer? some aftermarket ones have more than one set of marks.
I don't know when I will have time to mess with it again, unfortunately. But yes, it's a new balancer. I just can't figure out why it runs great with the fixed timing and not at all off the table.When do you get home tomorrow?? I'm off work all day. If you can find the time and have wifi i can work the computer whilst you make any mechanical changes...
dumb question, new balancer right? any chance the ring has slipped? did we check using the piston stop method?
It is strange.. please verify that the firing order is correct from the cam card. It may not be a bad idea to shoot DIY an email outlining the issue.I don't know when I will have time to mess with it again, unfortunately. But yes, it's a new balancer. I just can't figure out why it runs great with the fixed timing and not at all off the table.
Sorry, just saw this. Not sure why the tag didn't notify me...@hoopty5.0 To help with diagnosis, is this a stock distributor or aftermarket? Does it run if you populate the timing table with the same value as your fix timing value? For example, if your fixed timing is 20 degrees, set your advance table to 20 degrees and see if it runs. This is to determine if it's the "use table" that makes it not run, or if it's the timing value that's causing the issue. Also, to verify rotor phasing, set it to fixed 20 degrees timing and then the rotate the engine over so it's at 20 degrees and then pull the distributor cap and see if rotor is in same vicinity as #1 on the cap.
I've only seen a similar problem one time and it was related to an aftermarket distributor that had "funky" non-stock rotor phasing, hence the questions/tests above.
This is all assuming your timing marks are correct. I've certainly seen plenty of times the wrong marks are used and it causes all sorts of issues.
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