Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

a91what · Dec 2, 2016

-Hit the upload a file button
-Choose the tunerstudio folder and open it
-open your project folder
-choose the tune file your currently using usually called "current tune"
-it will upload the file with an .msq suffix.

stanglx2002 · Dec 2, 2016

Which pin on the ECU harness do you wire the "yellow" analog wire from the WB controller to the ECU?

a91what · Dec 2, 2016

Www.veryuseful.com for the win

stanglx2002 · Dec 2, 2016

Does it matter which one you use Left or Right? If it doesn't how do you choose which side?

Just to note for the thread:
Left EGO = Pin 43
Right EGO = Pin 29

a91what · Dec 2, 2016

Consult your documentation from DIYAUTOTUNE I cannot tell you which one I build my own units

stanglx2002 · Dec 3, 2016

Question: With Incorporate AFR set to "Dont target AFR Target" what does the computer use for the AFR?

Should this be set to "Include AFR Target", so you can do the math of actual AFR vs Target AFR to dial in your VE Table? Im using a LC-2 Wideband if that helps as well.

I came from using a Quarterhorse, and dialing in the MAF Transfer. It was only one column, and this is a 16x16 table. BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!! Im lost at how to dial in the VE table. Any help would be appreciated.

90sickfox · Dec 3, 2016

This is a datalog of my turbo 331 running. My car is running lean. If I add 5 to the fuel trim table it gets a lot better but runs at about 16-17 afr at idle. This should be with only base the timing settings changed from the tune you sent me. I set it at 17 fixed 0 offset then switched to table control

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

90sickfox said:
This is a datalog of my turbo 331 running. My car is running lean. If I add 5 to the fuel trim table it gets a lot better but runs at about 16-17 afr at idle. This should be with only base the timing settings changed from the tune you sent me. I set it at 17 fixed 0 offset then switched to table control

Did you do the base timing setup? what I mean is does your fixed timing value read on the balancer?

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

I always set the incorporate AFR to on. What this does is it allows you once the ve table is tuned to Simply change the AFR table to change the air fuel ratio in that RPM kPa value this way once your ve tables turned and you want to change the AFR in a block you don't have to touch the ve table again you simply change in the air fuel ratio table and you're done. Tuning ve table is very simple set up your air fuel ratio table and then use your ratios value to get your AFR dialed in.
So it's simple if you have a hundred in that RPM kPa Block in the ve table and you want to richen that block from say 13 to 12
Have 13 want 12
Have/want=value
Value*ve block= new ve table value.

I believe I've covered this a few times in this thread already there's a lot of information on the previous Pages if you just read through it you'll find a lot of the answers that you're looking for. Also if you have the newest version of tunerstudio and you're running on tunerstudio Ultra if you hit the little blue question mark button next to what you're working on in tunerstudio it brings up an explanation as to what it does. There's also a help button in the header on each box that will open the direct reference to the mega manual.
It always a good idea to read the manual if that does not clear it up I will answer. There are however some things that the mega manual and the help in tunerstudio will tell you that I disagree with these are mostly things for acceleration enrichment settings and the way that idle control can and should be done when it comes to these things every engine is different so you'll find that the manual is going to cover how it should work in theory but Theory doesn't always move over to actual functionality once the cars on the road. These are the questions that I like to stick to and cover in length as they're not easily answered from any piece of documentation.

90sickfox · Dec 3, 2016

a91what said:
Did you do the base timing setup? what I mean is does your fixed timing value read on the balancer?

Yes.... It is set with a digital light set at 17 degrees.

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

90sickfox said:
Yes.... It is set with a digital light set at 17 degrees.

OK, change the afr table in the idle range from 14.5 to 13.5....
It will be the blocks from 1200rpm down 70ish kpa down.
Then grab the blocks in the ve table in the idle range and add 5%
When the car is running and the ve table is open you will see a blue dot that dot is the area in the table that the car is running.

stanglx2002 · Dec 3, 2016

I have finally got the car to start. It runs really really rough, but runs.

The problem I am having now is the AFR gauge is pegging 7.40, and doesnt move at all. I also switched the gauge from AFR1 to AFR2 with no change. Also, I waited until the car was warmed up past 160* and rev it above 1300 rpms since the default EGO settings have it disabled at those values.

I have posted my .msq file, and any help I can get would be helpful. I have a LC-2 wideband if that helps, and I double checked the analog outputs on the controller of 0V=7.35 and 5V=22.39

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

You have to go into the tools section on the tool bar and calibrate all your sensors including the WB.

My suggestion is to ignore what TS says the afr is for now and tune off what the gauge says is going on.

If it's too rich remove fuel from the ve table.

Lower the numbers to remove fuel.......
Increase to add fuel.......

Have you watched the videos I posted?
You can find me on YouTube
I'm Steven VanOrder.

Or if you want I can help get your car running from my livingroom via TeamViewer. you need wifi where the car is parked. I can no longer offer this service for free, but I am very fair. pm me for details if interested.

stanglx2002 · Dec 3, 2016

a91what said:
You have to go into the tools section on the tool bar and calibrate all your sensors including the WB.

My suggestion is to ignore what TS says the afr is for now and tune off what the gauge says is going on.

If it's too rich remove fuel from the ve table.

Lower the numbers to remove fuel.......
Increase to add fuel.......

Have you watched the videos I posted?
You can find me on YouTube
I'm Steven VanOrder.

Or if you want I can help get your car running from my livingroom via TeamViewer. you need wifi where the car is parked. I can no longer offer this service for free, but I am very fair. pm me for details if interested.

Yes, I did watch all your videos.

I calibrated the TPS and the wideband unless there are some additional sensors I need to calibrate?

What are your recommendations on EGO Settings or I guess I could just load one of your other tunes you have done for someone else.

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

You need to calibrate the thermistor's as well.
I always use the same ego settings
WB
Local port
36 ign steps
50-70tps%
1200rpm
>30kpa
<70kpa
Pid control
P=30
I=10
D=0

Edit: this is from memory not in front of my computer.

90sickfox · Dec 3, 2016

a91what said:
OK, change the afr table in the idle range from 14.5 to 13.5....
It will be the blocks from 1200rpm down 70ish kpa down.
Then grab the blocks in the ve table in the idle range and add 5%
When the car is running and the ve table is open you will see a blue dot that dot is the area in the table that the car is running.

I'll get at it tomorrow. Had a big day with the kids today.

It takes time and money to help folks like me out.

Tuning over WiFi is tuning and you should be paid something for it. [emoji12]

Helping folks is one thing....single handedly tuning their car is another story.

stanglx2002 · Dec 3, 2016

Thank you!!!!

I found the stock Coolant Calibration Settings, and thought this would be a good place for this. It came off the DIYAutoTune website. Just incase there are more like me that needed this.

Bias Resistor Value (OHMS) = 2490

*F
33=94000
123=11000
208=2370

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/megasquirt-your-mustang-5-0/

a91what · Dec 3, 2016

stanglx2002 said:
Thank you!!!!

I found the stock Coolant Calibration Settings, and thought this would be a good place for this. It came off the DIYAutoTune website. Just incase there are more like me that needed this.

Bias Resistor Value (OHMS) = 2490

*F
33=94000
123=11000
208=2370

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/ford/megasquirt-your-mustang-5-0/

Make sure you also do the air temperature sensor as well! they are on the same page just select the top box and switch sensors, they use the same values.

90sickfox · Dec 4, 2016

Just to let everyone know that has timing issues with MS2. My car was a PITA. I used the jrichker spark plug modification to make a piston stop and marked tdc on the balancer. Then I set fixed timing in TS to 20°. Trigger wizard was showing 20° but my balancer read off by a lot. Car ran like ish. Tried retarding timing in TS using offset. Car would idle better but still like ish. Timing jumping around.

I could not retard the offset in TS without getting an error message when powering ms on. It burned to my MS2 but only gave a message when cycling key on.

Even though I marked the number one on the cap, turning the distributer wouldn't fix timing.

I ended up pulling the distributor out and turning it one notch counter clockwise. Pointed rotor at cyl. 1 mark.

Left spout in- set offset to zero and burned....fixed timing at 20°. Fired her up and timing was steady. Set my digital timing light to 20° ( moved 0 mark to pointer by turning distributor ). Locked distributor down and burned trigger wizard ( 0° offset ) and set to use table and burned.

Car runs a lot better. Our distributors require more than pointing at number 1 and using offset to adjust. I use version 3.4.2 and my TS won't allow the timing to be retarded.

Any negative numbers would freak my MS out...timing would jump around even when set to fixed timing.

The first attempt I had the offset burned retarding timing. I believe I could've set it to zero and burned- then set timing as I did second time around. As long as TS saw a negative number in trigger offset the timing jumped around.

a91what · Dec 4, 2016

If you read the manual....... its one of those things that you can easily overlook btw
you cannot retard the timing in ts to less than the mechanical advance.... so if the distributor has been set for 10* advance you cannot set the offset in TS to less than that amount.
TS is setup so that there is a set amout of offset adjustment..(i believe its a 20* total adjustment range)... BTW it should not be 0* you should have ended up with an offset between 8-14*.

It goes like this. (NEW INSTALLS WITH NO FACTORY ECU)
-You get the Distributor dropped in somewhere close to #1 tdc
-you get the car to start with the offset in the Trigger Wizard set to 10*
-set timing to locked input 20* this locks the timing in at 20* just as if you pulled the spout
-using a timing light advance the distributor until you get 20* on the balancer

seems simple right? now you have 20* on the balancer that matches the 20* you fixed in TS.

BTW you over complicated the setup by trying to achieve a 0* offset.... now its not an offset its just 0.....
-you want a total of 24*..... Ts removes the offset from the mechanical advance so it reads like this..
-mechanical advance 10*+commanded 24*-offset 10*=24*
-this further complicates things because the TFi system is "push to start" when you crank the engine the TFI gets a 12v signal and adds a 10* advance completely ignoring any input from the ECU, with your nullified 0* offset (0* mechanical advance) you only have 10* cranking advance
the stock setup has a cranking advance of at least 20* (10mech+10 "push")

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