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Steve's Megasquirt/tunerstudio Help Thread

  • Thread starter Thread starter hoopty5.0
  • Start date Start date Jan 12, 2016
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a91what

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#41
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #41
Just take your time, I mentioned the trigger wizard before that is what helps you get TS and your mechanical timing lined up right. The ms can only do its thing once all parameters match up.
 

hoopty5.0

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#42
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #42
Got it fixed. It runs better than the a9l did. I'm so happy I can hardly stand it.
 
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hoopty5.0

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#43
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #43
I got it pretty well dialed in. Idles at 750, cruises well, decel is not too lean anymore. Little too much timing at WOT, but that's an easy fix. Here's the latest and greatest with a short datalog.
 

Attachments

  • 01-17-16.msq
    01-17-16.msq
    112.2 KB · Views: 493
  • 2016-01-17_16.08.27.msl
    2016-01-17_16.08.27.msl
    1.6 MB · Views: 405

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
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Jan 17, 2016
#44
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #44
hoopty5.0 said:
I got it pretty well dialed in. Idles at 750, cruises well, decel is not too lean anymore. Little too much timing at WOT, but that's an easy fix. Here's the latest and greatest with a short datalog.
Click to expand...
You guys do know that nobody can see those MSQ files w/o TS right?
 
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hoopty5.0

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#45
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #45
madmike1157 said:
You guys do know that nobody can see those MSQ files w/o TS right?
Click to expand...
Yup. I wanted to post them as an archive for people who might need them in the future, or for people who might have downloaded it just to have a look.
 

a91what

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#46
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #46
Ahem... ts is a free download.
 

a91what

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#47
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #47
hoopty5.0 said:
I got it pretty well dialed in. Idles at 750, cruises well, decel is not too lean anymore. Little too much timing at WOT, but that's an easy fix. Here's the latest and greatest with a short datalog.
Click to expand...
You can set up overrun fuel cut, in the fuel settings during high rpm decel it will just cut all fuel. much safer IMO.
 

hoopty5.0

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#48
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #48
a91what said:
You can set up overrun fuel cut, in the fuel settings during high rpm decel it will just cut all fuel. much safer IMO.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Can you explain the differences between open and closed loop idle control and what I should be using?
 

a91what

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#49
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #49
open loop idle control is what you are using now. it sets the iac to work as warm up valve, in the idle control settings the warmup duty settings can adjusted more duty raises the idle less lowers it.
Closed loop idle is a MF to get set right I'm still fighting mine now, the idle will be adjusted by the iac based on PID settings. Now not everyone will have an issue using CL idle my cam is very choppy. CL will adjust to most conditions and does not require you to add in an idle up circuit for large loads like when the AC is turned on or a large electric fan.

if the open loop idles great and does not require throttle to keep the car running with a load, by all means use that. The adaptive idle control you have set up in your tune to raise the timing when the rpm starts to fall will help keep it from stalling.

IMO open loop is much much easier to tune and I may very well be using here in the future.
 
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hoopty5.0

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#50
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #50
Good to know, thanks. I switched on the A/C today and it definitely didn't like that at all.

I had to unplug the IAC earlier though. it was sounding like a fog horn and idled up to 1100 rpm once the car got warm. I'll have to mess with that tomorrow.
 

a91what

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#51
  • Jan 17, 2016
  • #51
hoopty5.0 said:
Good to know, thanks. I switched on the A/C today and it definitely didn't like that at all.

I had to unplug the IAC earlier though. it was sounding like a fog horn and idled up to 1100 rpm once the car got warm. I'll have to mess with that tomorrow.
Click to expand...
make sure that the iac is in good condition, set the frequency on the iac to a higher number they don't like low speed oscilation when used in warmup I like 153hz maybe more. you may need to go into the warmup valve settings and lower the duty cycle from 30% down 5% at a time till you reach target. at some point lowering the duty cycle will result in no change in idle speed this is the lowest you can safely set the duty cycle.
 
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hoopty5.0

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#52
  • Jan 18, 2016
  • #52
a91what said:
make sure that the iac is in good condition, set the frequency on the iac to a higher number they don't like low speed oscilation when used in warmup I like 153hz maybe more. you may need to go into the warmup valve settings and lower the duty cycle from 30% down 5% at a time till you reach target. at some point lowering the duty cycle will result in no change in idle speed this is the lowest you can safely set the duty cycle.
Click to expand...
Oh, ok. I had it set to 63 because that's what the help note int TS recommended. I'll crank it up.
 

addermk2

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#53
  • Jan 19, 2016
  • #53
I can probably be of some help here as well... just tag me in your questions
 
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a91what

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#54
  • Mar 14, 2016
  • #54
Just found this great info.

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/accel-enrichment/

I'm going to try and move the COP info over here as well.
 
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a91what

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#55
  • Mar 14, 2016
  • #55
Cop info...

EDIS8 can be done.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggbMAA&usg=AFQjCNGSr1hm1K47NZ6SjRRL677XdP-wPw

Here is how to wire it up and change the settings.

....
http://forums.corral.net/forums/meg...a.html#/forumsite/20549/topics/1394876?page=1
 
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hoopty5.0

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#56
  • Mar 22, 2016
  • #56
Info on how to delete a distributor for COP


. As far as the cam sync for sequential injection, I used the Price Motorsports option, but you can combine parts from a 3.8L V6 (Windstar van or similar) and the Explorer 5.0 cam sync. You need the housing from the 5.0 and the shaft from the 3.8 for the 351W. The 351W cam sync will also fit 351C, 351M, and 400M engines too.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8-engine-tech/1802946-351w-efi-swap-crank-trigger.html

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...talk-distributorless-crank-triggers-such.html

You definitely want to have a press handy to be able to do it easily. But yes other than that it's a direct drop in. The 5.0 and 5.8 blocks are the same in the distributor area. Common misconception is that the 5.8 needs a longer shaft because of the taller deck height. This is not the case. The 5.8 just happens to have a larger pump drive hex.
 
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LarsD

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#57
  • Mar 23, 2016
  • #57
This is a really interesting thread. Making me want MS for my LX as I was not happy with QH so I removed it. Been running on the stock A9L ever since.
 

hoopty5.0

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#58
  • Mar 23, 2016
  • #58
LarsD said:
This is a really interesting thread. Making me want MS for my LX as I was not happy with QH so I removed it. Been running on the stock A9L ever since.
Click to expand...
Do it! I loved mine before I pulled the engine. Have you exorcised all the other demons in your motor?
 

LarsD

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#59
  • Mar 23, 2016
  • #59
hoopty5.0 said:
Do it! I loved mine before I pulled the engine. Have you exorcised all the other demons in your motor?
Click to expand...

I sure hope so. I was having that random dying problem. It looks like it was a combination of a bad 3G alternator + underdrive pulleys that were slowly killing my Redtop batteries.
 

a91what

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#60
  • Mar 23, 2016
  • #60
Ouch. If you do the ms swap, we are here to help. I can walk you thru the software and get you setup. Before you decide download the tunerstudio program and look thru it it's free.
 
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