Here is a revamped fuel table, It looks like you may have some noise on the tps sensor make sure there are no plug wires near the harness and that the sensor is in good condition.Steve, finallly got to try out the new revamped tune. Had an issue with the FPR. Purchased a Aeroquip and set it to 39psi. Helped the idle and running issue. Still have the cold start issue. Cannot seem to get it right. Did some driving and 1,2,3 gear runs. Looks a little lean right off throttle but not bad. I have attached the cold start and driving datalogs.Thanks for the help.
My car did the same thing in idle... I believe Steve inverted the IAC for me. Sounds like your cold start idle up may be backwards. It should start higher and come down as you warm up. That drove me nuts at first.
Don't live by my advice on this subject. I'm still learning....
I actually drove the car around the block for the first time tonight. For a complete mess of a tune it ran well enough to get me home. I need to drop some fuel in the tank to take it any further. Stupid stupid rich, lol 9-10afr when accelerating.. I already redid the fuel table for tomorrow removed 17% from the accel area of the table should net me a 12-12.3 AFR...
So rich it was causing a miss...lol it's easier to change plugs than swap pistons.
Sick fox thanks for the response. I have tried that. still cannot get it to start and idle at all with it reversed. So I do thing the normal setting is on the right track. I think the duty cycle % in very touchy. Has to be real close to the correct setting or it will just not work. Glad yours is running well. Patience with this will finally get it set up.
Yeah, no sht. He told me he never offered me the 351 now.
I'm going to lose on this deal, no doubt. I'm keeping Doby though. Too much effort there and new parts. I will somehow get him the money and cut off that part of my family. Enough.
So I've got a hardon for a 351 now......time to look at craig's list.
I thought I would post this here to see if I could get some help from some smarter people than me.
I have been doing alot of research trying to get ready for swapping out my current AOD to a 4R70W transmission in my mustang. One of the features I would like to incorporate is the use of Paddle Shifters. After reading the brief section of the manual http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Tra ... l-1.0.html (6.3.2.7 Paddle Shifter) it brings up using the "horn" as the output, which makes me assume that I would be using the current horn wiring for both the paddle shifter (Up/down) and the horn.
After searching, I didn't find the need wiring diagram as to how to make this all work. I do understand that I need to breakup the horn wiring of 5v(?)/ground into 3 separate volts: Up, Down, Out (Horn).
Couple questions I have now:
1. If I take the 5V from the microsquirt's Vref, how do I get it up the steering column (Are my below thoughts correct)?
- I would be cutting the existing horn wire in half
+ Half that goes up the steering column goes to Vref on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)
+ Half that goes to the horn goes to an output on the microsquirt (if you can tell me which pin that would be awesome)
2. If I do the above, I assume I will need to setup a voltage divider with resistors (Like my diagram above) to breakup the single Vref voltage into 3 different voltages upshift, downshift, horn?
3. Is it ok to use a single ground spot for all three (upshift, downshift, horn) in the steering column?
Sorry for not understanding as wiring is definitely a weak point for me. You have to talk to me like a 5 Year Old Child when it comes to is kind of stuff. I don't understand wiring very well, so any help would be appreciated.
I see now, it's allowing you to set your own parameters on the horn output wire from the wheel. It appears to be on one signal wire meaning you can use 12v to each button then use a voltage drop to make each one have a different return voltage. The simple way I think would be to use a simple resistor of different values on each button so when each is pushed individually they send different voltages down the signal wire. This would be your up/down signal voltages. Then record the voltage when both buttons are pressed this will trigger the horn.That is what I am trying to figure out how to do is split the signal 3 ways through the horn wiring, since that is what the manual says to do.
Here is some more information if you guys can help me figure out as this is foreign language to me: http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/voltshift.html
This is also from the manual:
I see now, it's allowing you to set your own parameters on the horn output wire from the wheel. It appears to be on one signal wire meaning you can use 12v to each button then use a voltage drop to make each one have a different return voltage. The simple way I think would be to use a simple resistor of different values on each button so when each is pushed individually they send different voltages down the signal wire. This would be your up/down signal voltages. Then record the voltage when both buttons are pressed this will trigger the horn.
Now VD thru a resistor is simple to figure out VD=IxR or current*resistance I'm not certain the input on the microsquirt will have any kind of a measurable load so you may need to play around with different configurations to make this work.
Also it appears that the wiring will no longer go from the button to the horn, the microsquirt will trigger an output to the horn.
There are more than one way to get this done this is just my take on it from the light reading I did
The microsquirt is simply looking for the voltage on the line, notice in the program it shows 3 voltage selections up down and horn. The source will not have the correct voltage for the horn untill both buttons are pressed, then it will trigger the horn output.So do i follow this diagram then?
I understand the wiring of a voltage divider in the steering wheel that goes to each paddle shifter and the horn.
What I still don't understand is the how the microsquirt will be triggering the horn only when pushed? According the the above diagram, it looks like the horn go off anytime a paddle shifter is pushed or the horn button? What would stop it as it is only "T" to the microsquirt?
The microsquirt is simply looking for the voltage on the line, notice in the program it shows 3 voltage selections up down and horn. The source will not have the correct voltage for the horn untill both buttons are pressed, then it will trigger the horn output.
You will have to figure out the voltage for each button with a DMM then plug those values into tunerstudio for the switchpoints.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?