Still running RICH.

[labyas]

Ok, I checked for codes and I got 15, 67, 81, and 95 for KOEO and 30, 40, and 67 for saved codes. I could not get KOER codes out of her.

The story: My car stinks like gas and I see smoke every once in a while. I've got the useless narrowband a/f gauge and it is telling me that I'm running lean- all the way lean @ idle. Through my break-out-box my sensors all seem to be doing what the should and my O2's are only reading .1 volts @ idle and .3volts @ about 3k RPM. This jives with my narrowband because I do reach stoich when I'm on the gas 3k-ish or higher. I have done the whole O2 checks with continuity to the computer and ground and even tested on bench with torch and got a max voltage of .93 out of both.

I've checked for vacuum leaks but didn't find any- my next test will be to do an exhaust pressure check.

My question: Please help me! Does the higher RPM and O2 sensors reading correctly ring a bell for anyone.

Thanks in advance.

JY

 

[jrichker]

Code 15 - No Keep Alive Memory power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (Memory Test
Failure). The voltage to the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) is missing (wiring problem)
or the KAM is bad. The KAM holds all of the settings that the computer "learns" as
it operates and all the stored error codes that are generated as a result of
something malfunctioning while the engine is running. Use a voltmeter to check
the voltage to the pin 1 on the computer - you should always have 12 volts. No
constant 12 volts = bad wiring. If you do always have the 12 volts, then the KAM is
bad and the computer is faulty.

If the computer has to "relearn" all the optimum settings every time it powers up,
the initial 5-30 minutes of operation may exhibit surges, poor low speed performance,
and rough idle.

Note that some aftermarket chips will cause code 15 to set. Remove the chip,
clear the codes and retest.

Before replacing the computer, remove the battery ground cable for about 20
minutes. This will clear all the codes. Retest after several days of running. If the 15
code is gone, then don't worry about it. If it is still there, then you get to do some
troubleshooting.

Wiring diagrams for the proper model years are next…

For 86 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167158.gif

For 87 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8016715e.gif

For 88 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

For 89-90 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8019595f.gif

For 91-93 models see http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195960.gif

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2
Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Code 67 - clutch not depressed (5 speed) or car not in neutral or park (auto)
or A/C in On position when codes where dumped. Possible neutral safety switch or
wiring problem. This code may prevent you from running the Key On Engine On tests.
You can generally ignore this code, since it has no effect on engine performance.

The computer wants to make sure the A/C is off due to the added load on the engine
for the engine running tests. It also checks to see that the transmission is in
Neutral and the clutch depressed (T5, T56, Tremec 3550 & TKO)). This prevents the car
from being driven while the computer is in test mode. Key On Engine Running test mode
takes the throttle control away from the driver for several tests. This could prove hazardous
if the computer was jumpered into test mode and then driven.

The NSS code 67 can be bypassed for testing. You will need to temporarily ground
computer pin 30 to the chassis.

Code 81 – Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure AM2. The solenoid valve
located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. Possible
bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve
for +12 volts at the Red wire and look for the Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts
to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the
LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

With the with the ignition on, look for 12 volts on the red wire on the solenoid connector. No
12 volts and you have wiring problems.

With the engine running, stick a safety pin in the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve
& ground it. That should turn the solenoid on and cause air to flow out the port that
goes to the pipe connected to the cats. If it doesn't, the valve is bad. If it does cause
the airflow to switch, the computer or wiring going to the computer is not signaling the solenoid valve to open.

Putting the computer into self test mode will cause the solenoid valve to toggle.
If you listen carefully, you may hear it change states.


Code 95 Key O, Engine not Running - the following test path is for 86-90 model Mustangs.

The 95 code is because at one time or another, the fuel pump relay hiccupped and
didn't provide power the pump when the computer told it to run. Sometimes this
is a one time thing, other times it is a no run or runs poorly condition.

To help troubleshoot the 95 code, follow this link for a wiring diagram
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80167162.gif

Using the diagram, check the red/black wire from the fuel pump relay: you should
see 12 volts or so. If not, check the inertia switch: on a hatch it is on the driver’s side by the taillight.
Look for a black rubber plug that pops out: if you don't find it, then loosen up the plastic trim.
Check for voltage on both sides of the switch. If there is voltage on both sides, then check
the Pink/black wire on the fuel pump relay: it is the power feed to the fuel pump. No voltage
there, check the Orange/Lt blue wire, it is the power feed to the fuel pump relay & has a fuse
link in it. If there is good voltage there & at the Pink/black wire, swap the relay.

Some Mass Air conversions neglect to run the extra fuel pump wire, and they always have a 95 code.
See http://www.stangnet.com/tech/maf/massairconversion.html for more information on the Mass Air wiring conversion.

There are no valid code 30 or 40 for a 5.0 Mustang. Are you sure that it isn't a 34?


Your O2 sensor volage reading are low. You O2 sensors may be on the old side, you have
a vacuum leak, or other lean mixture problem.

Are you sure that the MAF calibraion matches the injectors?

 

[labyas]

Great feedback. I will check for constant 12v @ pin 1 and see what I get. I do have a "superchip" that is custom burned for this setup and a proM maf meter that is scribed with "24lb" in one of the lines for model or s/n and I do have 24 lb'ers.
A little history of my ignorance. I got the vert rolling chassis and my aquantince from work (car place) said that he had a 302 that he built with a fresh t5 trans out of an 89 vert that his cousin just wrecked. Great- he did the swap and I was there to help, but being new to this I didn't totally understand the whole process. It ran this way(stinky rich) @ first and he told me to get new plugs, wires, and cap(I did) and possibly a new h-pipe because he had problems mating it to the headers.(this could be my problem). Anyways- I was told to not touch the timing and fp because of the "sweet custom chip". It has also been dyno tuned @ 385hp. Who did it I don't know and he isn't much help because he is not a mustang guy and it insults him to ask questions. So i'm on my own. I aslo noticed that I have a A9S cali computer- this sounds like restricting problems off the get go, but why would anyone tune something that is junk?

Back to the trouble shooting.
I dont have the smog pump for code 81 and I will check the wiring to and @ the fp relay under my seat for code 95.
Do I need to hold the clutch down for the KOER test? This chassis was an auto and I took the pedal assymbly out of the donor and I believe everything got plugged back in. I know the clutch has to be pushed in to be able to crank.

I did mean 30 and 40- I'll recheck as I troubleshoot the fp relay, kam, and another trip around the engine compartment for a vacuum leak.

Thanks again.

 

[jrichker]

The clutch must be pressed and the trans in neutral for all tests.

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 and 44 & 94

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters
must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See www.Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Passives/Wirewound/OHMITE/43F82RE/displayProduct.jsp?sku=64K8974
If the link fails do a search using the park number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals.
They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Alternate method:

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the
Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified
the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.
Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when
you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or
TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing
solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea
from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage.
Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles.
It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes
regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.