Stock Brakes and Tracking

[o0Dan0o]

The the ford HD stuff is very good for the price. There are better fluids for more, about 3-4 times more, but at $3-4 thats still not much, especially for a race team. But that's why I bought it, at $4 a can I can flush a whole can through it and not really care, that way I have good fresh fluid at all four calipers.

The solo bleeders work, but my solo method was a long bit of 1/4" tube over the bung on the valve and then down into a catch can. Since the tube goes above the valve (in a little arch) before going down into the can you always have fluid at the valve not letting air into the caliper. Just sit there and pump the peddle to the floor a few times and be sure not to drain the MC. Never had harder brakes then that.
Dan

 

[Houstonnw]

I was going to talk to you more about your brakes. I totally went through my front Porterfield R-4Ss on Sunday last weekend. I'm upgrading soon to better pads. I used Ate Super Blue for that event and didn't experience any fading like I had with the stock fluid, though. My bias was getting thrown off as the front pads wore down to nothing though. I ended up going off track narrowly missing a spun M3 but even big brakes wouldn't have stopped that. I ended up picking up some Motul RBF600 which I've used before and will be switching too and will be upgrading to Steeda brake lines for a little better feel. Brake ducting is in the cards but at the moment I'm trying to decide on a pad to go with. I'm more than likely going with Hawk HP+s since I just set up a deal for them.

I had a similar problem, but with the rear brakes. I didn't realize they were down to the backing plate.

I'm not going to let my pads get less than about 1/3 of the original thickness in the future. The problem is that when they get that thin they can't absorb as much heat and start to fade very badly.

 

[sonnier]

I had a similar problem, but with the rear brakes. I didn't realize they were down to the backing plate.

I'm not going to let my pads get less than about 1/3 of the original thickness in the future. The problem is that when they get that thin they can't absorb as much heat and start to fade very badly.

Did you have the traction control on that they wore down like that in the back? Anyway, I think I'm going to run Hawk HP+ for the street then step up to Hawk Blues for the track and just swap rotors. I just picked up the Hawk line so I get good pricing on them and it's not like they are bad pads. I just got Steeda SS lines in yesterday and those will go on soon.

 

[Houstonnw]

Did you have the traction control on that they wore down like that in the back? Anyway, I think I'm going to run Hawk HP+ for the street then step up to Hawk Blues for the track and just swap rotors. I just picked up the Hawk line so I get good pricing on them and it's not like they are bad pads. I just got Steeda SS lines in yesterday and those will go on soon.

That was my first thought, but it turns out the fronts were almost gone also.

However, front or back, I won't start a track weekend without about 50% of the original pad thickness.

Regarding the Hawk brake pads, sounds like a nice deal.

-Wayne