You ain't kidding. Maybe next year (for some reason I only tend to buy coyote mods on black Friday)I like the wheels on the S197, but now it needs a drop! Snow ball effect!
Hey man, Scott Rod pieces, nice.Bringing this back from purgatory. I've been living in what was my mom's place since she passed (actually grew up in this house), and I finally came to the conclusion that it's time to move on and find a place of my own again, which put car stuff on hiatus while I made up my mind on what to do. I think its going to be easier to just use some of these parts than moving them potentially twice (once to storage, and again to a new house), so I'm making some progress again. Also ran into a small snag kinda early on, hoping someone ( like @Davedacarpainter since you just used these, and I know there's lots of others) can help.
I decided after welding them in that I HATED the way the lrs aprons looked compared to the Scott Rod stuff, so I ordered the SR aprons.
Cut the old ones out (drivers side took almost a whole pack of reinforced dremel discs, I smartened up on the passenger side and use a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel on my grinder and had it out in less than 10mins)
Also took out the sway bar mounts (breaking 4 1/8" drills in the process, wtf? I didnt break any when piloting all spot welds removing the aprons) and then gave the bay a quick powerwash.
And here's where my problems began. I started test fitting the new panels, and had to trim the front end of both of them a bit. The passenger side fits great:
But the drivers side i can get to fit flush at the top at all?
I don't see anywhere where its hanging up, and its sitting on the top of the frame rail like i think its supposed to (the tang is supposed to wrap over the rail, right?). It almost seems as though the frame rail is too far inboard? Of course, I could just be doing something wrong somewhere I'm not seeing? This car has been hit in the front, but that was really just on the other corner/side that seems to fit perfect? I don't want to just muscle into place as i think that will make the thing start to wave up.
Hey man, Scott Rod pieces, nice.Bringing this back from purgatory. I've been living in what was my mom's place since she passed (actually grew up in this house), and I finally came to the conclusion that it's time to move on and find a place of my own again, which put car stuff on hiatus while I made up my mind on what to do. I think its going to be easier to just use some of these parts than moving them potentially twice (once to storage, and again to a new house), so I'm making some progress again. Also ran into a small snag kinda early on, hoping someone ( like @Davedacarpainter since you just used these, and I know there's lots of others) can help.
I decided after welding them in that I HATED the way the lrs aprons looked compared to the Scott Rod stuff, so I ordered the SR aprons.
Cut the old ones out (drivers side took almost a whole pack of reinforced dremel discs, I smartened up on the passenger side and use a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel on my grinder and had it out in less than 10mins)
Also took out the sway bar mounts (breaking 4 1/8" drills in the process, wtf? I didnt break any when piloting all spot welds removing the aprons) and then gave the bay a quick powerwash.
And here's where my problems began. I started test fitting the new panels, and had to trim the front end of both of them a bit. The passenger side fits great:
But the drivers side i can get to fit flush at the top at all?
I don't see anywhere where its hanging up, and its sitting on the top of the frame rail like i think its supposed to (the tang is supposed to wrap over the rail, right?). It almost seems as though the frame rail is too far inboard? Of course, I could just be doing something wrong somewhere I'm not seeing? This car has been hit in the front, but that was really just on the other corner/side that seems to fit perfect? I don't want to just muscle into place as i think that will make the thing start to wave up.
Cool man, it'll look hot when you're done. You'll be glad you went through all the crap as well.Frame rails definitely ain't straight, they kinda splay apart towards the front.
I think I found my problem though, looks like I didn't remove enough if the lrs panel on the front bottom corner, and was tilting the SR panel. Got back in there with the cutoff wheel and it fits much better, but now it looks like I cut too much off the top on that side cause when I laid it out the top of the SR panel was sitting even with the fender mount surface, looks like it's actually supposed to be significantly lower. Oh well, I think I have a plan to fix it so might be no biggie.
Glad you got the panel fitted, like I was saying, I had to tweak mine a little along the shock tower area.So looks like my fix plan is gonna work. Take notes, kids, cause its easier to do this right the first time than it is to fix a silly **** up like this.
So here's where i cut too much off the old apron, waaaaay to much to just fill with weld, though i know some idiot some where would try:
Solution part one: Cut a strip out of the old apron that you saved for just such an occasion:
After a little welding and grinding (and welding, and grinding......man i need to remember to turn my wire speed back down after failing to fix a chair), you have enough "old" apron left to weld your new apron to again:
I'm back to work tomorrow night (took a long weekend while my aunt flew into town), hopefully I'll be able to switch back to day shift here before too much longer, but maybe I can get at least one apron in by the weekend.
I was looking back in your thread last night, I didn't get as far as the frame rail business, but did take a look to see where the tops sat and how the panel overlaps the rail. I do have the SR covers for the frame rails, strut towers, pcm and heater holes, etc. Still gotta mock most of them up (and knock some undercoating off in places) but I'm hoping the frame covers can overlap/underlap the aprons slightly and straighten that out.Glad you got the panel fitted, like I was saying, I had to tweak mine a little along the shock tower area.
Don't throw fits over the way the SR panel fits to the frame rail, like you said, the rails aren't straight.
I guess you saw what I did to mine, I tacked originally to the top of the rail, use a cutter to cut along the straight SR bend, then ground down that edge to follow the frame rail. I'm glad I went back and did that, it looks good painted that way. Don't be a bonehead like me and tack it down too fast. That thin metal warped real nicely. You don't sound as stupid as me though!
I read the rest of your build plan, big project, isn't it?
Love the idea of your engine, I wouldn't mind having that myself, maybe someday......
Of course you're going to mini-tub while you have the interior out?
Yes, doing ok. Couldn't get into the office yesterday so I stayed home and put my engine together. Some other people in town caught a tough break. The same people who got flooded a year ago got it again yesterday.@hoopty5.0 hope you're staying safe man, not hearing good things coming out of your neck of the woods.
After working the new SR panels on there, I decided I could just weld the rest of the holes in the towers and cram rails. I got the upper firewall as an after thought.I was looking back in your thread last night, I didn't get as far as the frame rail business, but did take a look to see where the tops sat and how the panel overlaps the rail. I do have the SR covers for the frame rails, strut towers, pcm and heater holes, etc. Still gotta mock most of them up (and knock some undercoating off in places) but I'm hoping the frame covers can overlap/underlap the aprons slightly and straighten that out.
No tubs on this one, I was able to fit a 26x11.5 ET Street under there with just a few hammer whacks last year, street tires will still be 275/40/17 or smaller in the back, and I MIGHT go to a 275/60/15 (or the bias equivalent 28x11.5) for track duty.
@hoopty5.0 hope you're staying safe man, not hearing good things coming out of your neck of the woods.
Might be option, how hard are they to dodge when when working on the side of the motor? This thing will end up being a solid roller, and may need other track side tinkering so whatever ends up being the least pita is what I'll go with.@Chuckman
looks like a good time to delete that dang prop rod and add the Redline hood quick lifts. I love mine! That way you can fill in the holes for the prop rod while your doing the others anyway.
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