Just like Collin said, they're worth it and they're out of the way even when working on heads/headers area. Also with a light weight hood they will lift the hood up higher giving you more head clearance to lean into the bay when working. I'm 6'-3" so that was a plus for me.Might be option, how hard are they to dodge when when working on the side of the motor? This thing will end up being a solid roller, and may need other track side tinkering so whatever ends up being the least pita is what I'll go with.
Woody is doing the motor, still making monthly payments. Basically a long block, but the heads will be separate (TEA high-power 240s with a pac solid roller spring setup) since I need to do something to build it. I've been encouraged, mostly by @90lxcoupe , to go with a 4500-series intake but may still end up with a 4150 for packaging concerns. Still a ways off though, and I've got plenty to do till then.Have you started the motor build yet? Any parts pics? Lol. Also did you decide if you're using Woody or someone else?
Question for those that are more weld-talented than i (like @hoopty5.0 ): on that panel above, I was able to get what seemed to be decent welds (no holes, and the right "bzzzt" sound) along the top (bare-is metal, bit of primer and e-coat) and front (still some paint), but along that strut tower (bare metal with sem weld thru primer) it just wanted to to keep popping and melting holes in the thinner panel. Do I need to adjust my welders settings, not use that primer, or just all around do something different? Using a small 110v handy mig with the provided wire and mix gas, with the gun at a 45 to both panels making a series of tacks about 3-4" apart.
Tastes nothing like it though. I know......If it's burning thru, turn it down. The other alternative is to move faster, but for someone who's not used to it the best bet is to drop the voltage, then adjust wire speed back where it needs to be. Sounds like bacon frying when it's right.
SH*T, Chuck doesn't want me to chime in on welding! I suck! Bad!
Jeez Chuck, I love those SR panels. Looks good man.So I finally switched back to day shift today, which boosts the motivation factor enough to get a bit done this afternoon:
and melted in (future note to self again-only use the weld thru primer on the BACK of the panel, otherwise it's a complete PITA)
Ill try to get the other side tomorrow.
It's been a long time since I've actually fried bacon, I typically use the nuke machineIf it's burning thru, turn it down. The other alternative is to move faster, but for someone who's not used to it the best bet is to drop the voltage, then adjust wire speed back where it needs to be. Sounds like bacon frying when it's right.
I'm actually trying to avoid a full bead entirely and just stitch weld with aI don't know of anyway to actually run a bead on those panels though. If I remember right with mine, SR even says to tack weld around the parameter. The metal is just so thin. Maybe it's different with a TIG, I don't know.
Yeah, did that a while back. My welds are ugly, but at least they're tight.I'm actually trying to avoid a full bead entirely and just stitch weld with a **** ton of tacks to keep them from warping. A tig would be great if I knew how to use it, and it wasn't such of pita to on your back under the car doing torque boxes (a future project I have planned, actually ordered those before I had the car down to a shell)
Said section, as previously mentioned, has already been stripped to bare steel, and then a weld-thru primer applied. But I'm guessing that primer can act like a galvanize coat?Hmmm...Introductions need to be made here:......
Mild steel patch panel?,..meet galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized sheet metal?....meet .030 solid steel welding wire.
I'm gonna guess that you are experiencing blow out from the galvanized metal not playing well when being asked to marry the mild steel you're trying to stick to it. If that's the case, you'll literally get a eruption of the molten metal that usually ends in a big assed hole. The solution is to prep the metal before trying to weld something to it. Since galvanizing is a top coated process, usually it can be ground/sanded off before trying to weld something to it. But at this juncture, it's too late for that. You'll just have to weld, and fix the mess that's made as a result of it.
Yeah, but there's bare steel, and then that section of bare steel having the galvanizing on the weld area ground off with a flap wheel. Unless you did that, you were welding galvanized metal. Was there white cob web looking junk on the back side of the weld in the shock tower? As for weld through primer.... I have never had good luck with it.Said section, as previously mentioned, has already been stripped to bare steel, and then a weld-thru primer applied. But I'm guessing that primer can act like a galvanize coat?
Ok then,....I got nothin.Tower was flapped with a 60 grit disc before the first panels were welded in (didn't have a problem with them at that spot once I got the welder set right).
Very nice chuck!So got the passenger side panel about 80% welded before I ran out of both gas AND wire. Stripped all the weld primer from the areas I was going to be in, and it acted much better.
Now for some pics:
And because it's been a controversial subject here lately, this is my third one of these:
Now time for some grilling, and tomorrow I'll pick up some more gas, wire, and another can of raid to ward off the mud daubers and yellow jackets that keep wanting to share my garage....
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