Subframe connectors?

PJx5x · Jul 25, 2007

Im in the market for a set of SFCs right now. Ive been looking at the Maier racing ones, as they are "full length" with 4 mounting points per side rather than 2 like the other companies I have found. Except they are over $300 after shipping.

What are you guys running? Do you go drag racing? Launch on slicks?

Are there any other companies making "full length" subframe connectors?

Thanks

mattrod70 · Jul 25, 2007

for what its worth, i saw the maier sfcs at a gg pleasanton show and they look very high quality and stout. definatly like the tubular construction and the 4 mounting points. definitely the way im gonna go

matt

coolblue65 · Jul 26, 2007

I just put on the Global West ones on, and was real happy with the quality and fit- they are not the full length multi-point connectors like your looking for, but they are much cheaper ~$150.

Jester67 · Jul 26, 2007

I have the Maier subs and like them very much. I do not race but think that is a modification needed on any classic that will be driven. The quality on these is very good and fit nicely with 2 exceptions. I needed to notch the front bracket on the front driver’s side connector as it had an interference with an e-brake cable guide bracket this was a simple straight cut that was made with a cut off wheel. A search should turn up photos of the modification. I also had a problem where the gas line crosses to the rocker panel on the late 67 “ I think all 68 have it in that location” the problem is that the line crosses the rear drivers side torque box at the same location as the mounting brackets intended welding location. I was in the process of running a new 3/8” pre-bent SS line. I had to change the bend location so that it would run in front of the torque box. That allowed it to run in the natural indention that is created where the pan welds to the torque box. Knowing what I know now I would have still gotten the Subs but I would have done the gas line differently

12sec67 · Jul 26, 2007

Dustin 10secgoal and I just installed a set of global west tubular. very nice fit to frame rails, tucked up close to the floor and cleared the caltracs that were just installed.they did interfere with the e brake spring on the 66 but that was of were we placed them and it was an east fix

the TCP subframes on the other hand are larger, hang lower and did interfere with caltracs that were installed on a 67 fastback.

PJx5x · Jul 26, 2007

The global west sound like a nice option, but i really want a multi-point/full-length. Maybe ill talk to the guy at the local chassis shop and see if he can make something, tubular and full length. Would anyone else be interested in a set if its cheaper than Maier?

65fastbackresto · Jul 26, 2007

I used Competition Engineering for mine

no cutting or anything crazy, direct bolt on for $150. I dont know anything about the others listed here, but these made my frame stiff enough I can jack up the back tire now and pick up the front on the same side at the same time rather easily, couldn`t do it before at all......

And obviously the car drives much better now, I can dive into a corner without rolling out so to speak.

66forfun · Jul 26, 2007

CE bolt ins on mine, went right in. welded after bolting.

frost0100 · Jul 27, 2007

Getting ready to intstall my Comp engineering sub frames. I'm still in the research phase though - How did you guys install yours? I've been finding some sites that say don't jack the car up, and others that say jack up only the rear. How did you guys do yours? I want to make sure I have the weight distributed correctly when I'm installing these puppies.

65fastbackresto · Jul 27, 2007

The comp engineering

subs had very clear instructions on how to have the car hanging at each stage, I`m afraid to tell you off the top of my head, cause I could be wrong.

I do remember at one point we had the car suspended by the rear end, and then at another point we had it supported by the frame just in front of the rear leaf spring with the rear end hanging.

It was easy man, just jump in and do it, it goes quick....unless you have a frozen eye bolt...LMAO

I thing I learned that aint in the instructions, when your mounting the front of the connector to the frame, use a jack and put it on the subframe connector itsself and push the car up enough so that its supporting weight when you drill thru the frame. We learned that trick on the first side, and the second side went quick.

frost0100 · Jul 27, 2007

My set came with nothing but 2 bars, and the hardware to hook it up - So this is the most directions I've seen so far. I'm going to do some site and web searching, I'm sure I'll find the answers.

65fastbackresto · Jul 27, 2007

I`ll look this evening and see if I

still have the directions, I`m pretty good about keeping up with stuff like that.

65fastbackresto · Jul 27, 2007

Wow I got em right here.

You got a fax number or something I can send these to? Its kinda big, i`ll type if I have to....

BornInAFord · Jul 27, 2007

frost0100 said:
My set came with nothing but 2 bars, and the hardware to hook it up - So this is the most directions I've seen so far. I'm going to do some site and web searching, I'm sure I'll find the answers.

Comp Engineering has instructions on their web site (PN C3140) or you can also find them at Summit. If you get the bolt in ones, make sure you weld them in, too. Keep a fire extinguisher or water spray bottle handy...

As far as subframe connectors, I just finished welding in Global West ones last night. I still have other things to do to the car, so I haven't driven it yet, but I did hold the car up with jack stands using the connectors after I finished, and the car is pretty stiff now. The old unibody was flexing a lot after 430,000miles...
I might try to weld in risers like the Maier subframes have using boxed 2x2" square tubing or several 1/8" thick sheetmetal strips going from subframe tube to where the floor meets the rocker panel (similar to Maier, but custom to my car), but I'll see how stiff the car is after I weld in torque boxes. I might decide the car is stiff enough. Oh, and for inquiring minds, I had the car level and suspension loaded with the front tires on ramps and jackstands on rear axle (with rear wheels off to get access). I did remove the interior and carpet and moved brake and fuel lines, but I didn't have to remove the dual exhausts or anything else.
Daniel

truck90278 · Jul 28, 2007

We're using Maier's SFC and liked the install very much. with the "4 points" mounting it acts like a truce which significantly stiffens the body. These weld in. We initially bought some bolt-ons and they became scrap tubing in my scrap pile. although not shown yet, we are in the process of assembling our 65. See posts by AdamInChains.

rc4mike · Jul 28, 2007

Checked out Competition Engineering's SF's....they dont work for convertibles. Anyone have any other suggestions for 65 vert?

thanks
mike

palerider94 · Jul 28, 2007

Can I use my 110 v mig to weld in after bolt in or do I need to get a stonger weld.

JamesW · Jul 28, 2007

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/subframe.html

dennis112 · Jul 29, 2007

palerider94 said:
Can I use my 110 v mig to weld in after bolt in or do I need to get a stonger weld.

If you are experienced with the use of it, it will work just fine. I did mine that way too and had no issues due to the thicker metal that the frame members are made up of.

frost0100 · Jul 30, 2007

Good information here. I however have not gotten very far with my install. I was one of those lucky people that has a frozen leaf spring bolt. Still working on getting it out. From there it all looks pretty simple.

Subframe connectors?

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