Suspension for budget and dummies.

Makdaddymac

New Member
May 28, 2005
323
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orlando
I want to solve the poblem of me hitting a pot hole,speed bump etc. and having my head hit the roof. I want the car to ride smooth like a newer produced car(you know take a speed bump at 30mph and barely feel it).
I dont know much about suspension. But i was guessing some new struts,shocks,and springs. but i know theres a lot more to it than just that. But im on a budget. So i need the bes bang for my little buck to get htis thing smoother.
 
Don't forget spring isolators and new strut bushings... The only other things to replace are the control arm bushings, but I heard that they are difficult to replace on these cars, so you might want to purchase the complete control arm, which comes with new bushings and ball joints. How many miles on your car? If it is relatively low mileage, then just stick to springs, shocks/struts, spring isolators, and maybe strut bushings. Also, the lower your car sits, the worse it is going to ride... I wouldn't go more than a 1.5 inch drop.

You might as well get new sway bar end-links and sway bar bushings while you are down there.

I am doing my suspension next week. I got KYB replacement shocks, Eibach pro-kit springs, Energy suspension isolators, and urethane strut bushings. This is costing me about $500. A lot of people say that the replacement KYB shocks/struts are not good for lowered cars, but we will see how it goes. A better shock/strut would be a Tokico or a Koni.

Good luck
 
feifong said:
Buy a Bmw problem solved

:lol:

well said.. if you wan ta nice riding car.. owning a mustang is not the car for you.. they ride rough brand new..

as for the subframe connectors any exhaust shop can weld them in or some subframes are bolt in.. but i would still say get them welded.. as for the suspension.. bbk makes nice street freindly upper and lower rear control arms.. at a very decent price.. ias for front suspension.. spring isolators.. honestly are the first thing i always take off any mustang i buy.. and they ride just fine.. drops the ride height a wee wee wee bit..

if you decide to do all the bushing.. go energy suspension.. they sell a complete bushing set that will replace damn near every bushing on your car.. some of which i would say have a professional install..
 
They are rubber or urethane pieces that go on the top and the bottom of the spring. They stop metal on metal noise and help dampen road noise. Energy Suspension and Prothane make some. You can find rubber pieces at 50resto.
 
It's a little rubber piece that is placed around the bottom spring coil. When the coil sits in it's perch, the rubber absorbs some of the harshness from impacts (a tiny bit)

If your car is bobing all over the place, it's simply time to replace the OEM struts / shocks. I used factory reproduction pieces because my car is still using the factory springs. If you lower the car any, you will be better off with name brand dampers that are tuned to lowered Mustangs.

H&R springs come to mind as a good choice

Also, when you lower your ride, get shocks from the 94+ Mustangs becauase they have longer travel and won't bottom out if you hit a really big bump.
 
STANGateURlilSS said:
:lol:

well said.. if you wan ta nice riding car.. owning a mustang is not the car for you.. they ride rough brand new..

as for the subframe connectors any exhaust shop can weld them in or some subframes are bolt in.. but i would still say get them welded.. as for the suspension.. bbk makes nice street freindly upper and lower rear control arms.. at a very decent price.. ias for front suspension.. spring isolators.. honestly are the first thing i always take off any mustang i buy.. and they ride just fine.. drops the ride height a wee wee wee bit..

if you decide to do all the bushing.. go energy suspension.. they sell a complete bushing set that will replace damn near every bushing on your car.. some of which i would say have a professional install..

Energy suspension = Polyurethane bushings = Harsh Ride compared to stock rubber bushings.

For ride comfort I would get new rubber bushings and stay away from poly for control arms, thicker sidewall tires, GOOD shocks... Subframes will probably make the car ride rougher because the chassis can't flex anymore so you will pick up more road noise and bumps.

If you do all the things I said, plan on never bolting slicks up to your stang and hope for a 1.5-1.6 60' time. :p