Suspension 93 LX 5.0 - Suspension Upgrade Suggestions

[Crigano]

Hi Folks. My suspension is all stock and every bump I hit it feels like something is going to break.

I'd like to upgrade the suspension to something more modern so it feels like today's newer cars. While I know todays cars are way different, I'm not sure what brands to look at.

I don't have subframe connectors and while I know that will probably make some difference, I'm not sure if there is more that can be done to improve the ride.

This car is primarily driven around town and on the highway. Won't see the track or be raced either.

Thanks!
Craig

 

[AeroCoupe]

1) Full length subframe connectors (Maximum Motorsports, Global West, or you can make your own if you are crafty)
2) Rebuild your front LCA's with new bushings and ball joints
3) Quality rear LCA's (Maximum Motorsports are really good and I run them as do others here)
4) New OEM rear UCA's
5) New front struts and rear dampers (Bilsteins are what I would recommend but spend what you are comfortable with)
6) New springs all the way around (I can recommend H&R as I ran them for years on the street and they were awesome)
7) Maximum Motorsports caster / camber plates (don't F around and just get them)

When installing the subframe connectors be sure that the suspension on the car is loaded and the car is on as level of a surface as possible. Two fold on the level surface. One is you will need to put it up on jackstands if you do not have a drive on lift available to you. Two, you need to make sure the car is not tweaked as once you weld them in any tweak in the body will be permanent or until you cut the subframes out and fix the tweak. I took both my cars to a body shop and had them check them. T-Bird was spot on and the Mustang had a little issue that they fixed in about an hour. I would get the subframes welded in first unless the suspension is causing an issue with the car sitting flat. Then attack the suspension next. Both my cars road smoother after the subframe installations.

 

[Crigano]

1) Full length subframe connectors (Maximum Motorsports, Global West, or you can make your own if you are crafty)
2) Rebuild your front LCA's with new bushings and ball joints
3) Quality rear LCA's (Maximum Motorsports are really good and I run them as do others here)
4) New OEM rear UCA's
5) New front struts and rear dampers (Bilsteins are what I would recommend but spend what you are comfortable with)
6) New springs all the way around (I can recommend H&R as I ran them for years on the street and they were awesome)
7) Maximum Motorsports caster / camber plates (don't F around and just get them)

When installing the subframe connectors be sure that the suspension on the car is loaded and the car is on as level of a surface as possible. Two fold on the level surface. One is you will need to put it up on jackstands if you do not have a drive on lift available to you. Two, you need to make sure the car is not tweaked as once you weld them in any tweak in the body will be permanent or until you cut the subframes out and fix the tweak. I took both my cars to a body shop and had them check them. T-Bird was spot on and the Mustang had a little issue that they fixed in about an hour. I would get the subframes welded in first unless the suspension is causing an issue with the car sitting flat. Then attack the suspension next. Both my cars road smoother after the subframe installations.

Thanks! Have you run the Bilsteins struts and dampers? I've read they are better than KYB.

 

[limp]

Thanks! Have you run the Bilsteins struts and dampers? I've read they are better than KYB.

ANYTHING is better than KYB, in my opinion.....

 

[nickyb]

Kyb 's are cheap but I agree they suck.

 

[keel]

I also have a 1993 LX 5.0 and I installed Koni yellow single adjustable shocks and struts paired with H&R race springs. I absolutely love the way the car rides with this set up. It feels sporty but still very compliant. I believe alteredfox.com has a pretty good deal on a set of those dampers.
The car is lower than stock ride height but still drives over normal every day bumps and driveways with no scraping which is something I really appreciate as well.

 

[90sickfox]

I've used the Monro shocks and struts from local stores for years. They are inexpensive and ride better than kyb. I use them on my fox with coil overs and 175 springs. Rides very well. Not race track worthy but checks all my boxes. They've been on every fox I've owned except my mostly track cars. I used Strange adjustable struts for them. Subframe connectors are one of the most noticeable things you can do to a fox. Maximum motorsports is the best with everything suspension related. For a modestly driven stretch car I can't justify the expense though. SR performance has some cheaper stuff. For the rear axle I'd recommend a tubular lower control arm but factory style uppers. Moog makes decent rear upper arms around 50 each. With tubular lower rear arms you won't need quad shocks so money and wheel space saved there. I use monro rear shocks too for a basic mustang. The bushings on the rear end itself are probably bad. Cheap and a must do. Up front new lower control arms will have the new ball joints and bushings already in them for about 160 each. I'm a master mechanic and hate doing ball joints on mustangs. Doing the bushings and ball joints in the factory control arms is cheaper but takes a bunch of time to do correctly. Replacing the whole control arm is a lot faster. Time is money for me.

I had one issue with Monro struts. They were the blue ones ( black sensatrac ones are better ) and the shaft had play inside the strut causing a knocking noise. This was after atleast 10 years, two different cars, and many hard miles. They didn't owe me anything when they failed.

Monro is cheap but if you buy from a local store they usually honor lifetime warranty. I've never had to do it but it's good assurance.

 

[Mhalc1]

I have Koni Yellow Single adjustable struts and koni red shocks, i put all new bushings in the front and on stock springs i loved the ride as a daily driver. It handled bumps similar to my girlfriend's 2010 jetta. I have since then lowered it with SVE springs and it became a pretty harsh ride. I absolutely love how it feels in the canyons, it feels planted on smooth roads but driving it on certain freeways and over bumps and potholes is annoying. I noticed myself remembering where every bump in the road is and am constantly avoiding them.