Suspension Gurus, Educate Me in HERE

[Blinkstang]

Excuse the noobness:

I want to do some more suspension work on my car, but do not know much about the subject. So I’m looking for some light and clarification. Currently I have H&R Sport Springs, Tokico HP Shocks/Struts, and a set of Maximum Motorsports CC Plates. I was looking at the MM website and like the following products, but could use more info on them:

1. MM XL Subframe Connectors - What does the powder coating option do for them? Will they last any longer then just the bare steel setup, which seems to be the better choice. And how are they installed, just welded in (how much does that run)?

2. MM Front Strut Tower Brace - What will this do exactly, besides stiffening up the front end? And I want to get an Accufab plenum and throttle body with a JLT RAI in the future, will it clear these modifications?

3. Eibach Sway Bars (Front + Rear) - What would these do, would they be worthwhile? Would they clear my long tube headers and catback?

4. MM Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms - What do these do, I know the front has them too, and I’m not really clear on the subject? Which ones do what (upper, lower) and what would be best for what? Basically which ones would be worthwhile?

That’s it for now, and what else would you suggest in regards to suspension. My car is a daily driver, that lives in the city of Chicago. Just looking to make the ride more firm, stiffen it up a bit.

Thanks!

 

[1fast03pony]

Excuse the noobness:

I want to do some more suspension work on my car, but do not know much about the subject. So I’m looking for some light and clarification. Currently I have H&R Sport Springs, Tokico HP Shocks/Struts, and a set of Maximum Motorsports CC Plates. I was looking at the MM website and like the following products, but could use more info on them:

1. MM XL Subframe Connectors - What does the powder coating option do for them? Will they last any longer then just the bare steel setup, which seems to be the better choice. And how are they installed, just welded in (how much does that run)?

2. MM Front Strut Tower Brace - What will this do exactly, besides stiffening up the front end? And I want to get an Accufab plenum and throttle body with a JLT RAI in the future, will it clear these modifications?

3. Eibach Sway Bars (Front + Rear) - What would these do, would they be worthwhile? Would they clear my long tube headers and catback?

4. MM Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms - What do these do, I know the front has them too, and I’m not really clear on the subject? Which ones do what (upper, lower) and what would be best for what? Basically which ones would be worthwhile?

That’s it for now, and what else would you suggest in regards to suspension. My car is a daily driver, that lives in the city of Chicago. Just looking to make the ride more firm, stiffen it up a bit.

Thanks!

Good choices to start with

Impressions I had with my front strut tower brace-
Much stiffer front end, noticably more stable when turning. It seems to stiffen the car on bumps more too

Subframes- a very good mod, will reduce body roll even further- I noticed the car to feel rock solid on bumps and in corners, as well as in braking and acceleration. BTW I have the MM Full lengths also.

Swaybars- I cant imagine this being useless. A thicker swaybar will further stiffen the car's behavior in corners and stability while going over bumps/ going straight.
Im looking into some fatty ass swaybars myself

Control arms- Plants the car under acceleration and significantly reduces its "wiggle" in the rear end when going over uneven surfaces. Id imagine this is a great mod (also going by what others have said about it)
Again, Im looking into a set of these also.


Stability and handling should be the first things one does to a mustang, because it so desperately needs it. After this and only after this should we be adding power. good choice in mods.

Also, these mods should be fairly easy to install (except the subframes) by yourself or with a friend.

 

[Chopper1]

Look at http://corner-carvers.com/

 

[squares98]

NEVER buy subframe connectors pre-powedcoated

 

[propellerhead]

NEVER buy subframe connectors pre-powedcoated

Your post would have more value if you stated why.

 

[twogts4us]

I didn't buy em powdercoated because you immediately have to grind some off to weld them on.
Another option is zinc coated, which can be welded though without grinding it off.
I bought the bare MM XL full lengths and just had the guy spray em with whatever he had on hand (as long as it wasn't neon green!), which turned to be grey...works for me. I paid $120 to have them installed.

 

['13_ImpactBlue_GT]

TwoGTs4Us

Did you notice a difference after you had the SFC's installed? Im gonna get mine installed tommorow .

 

[squares98]

huge difference, when i took off my kb subs i was amazed at the amount of flex in the chassis, it was horrible.

 

[KronicRacer]

^^^like i said in the other thread kb uses mild steel in most of thier applications. the only one i havent seen in mild steel is the k memeber BRACE.

again mm or steeda only difference is in the logos.

and definately zinc plated or bare are the way to go. powder coating can be tricky and it can have bad batches which blister up and peel.

 

[VividDreams]

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

that is a complete rundown of how a mustang suspension works.

also, if you read on MM's website, they highly discourage use of aftermarket rear unpper control arms, as they cause excessive bind and can make the car "snap oversteer" more easily.

take a few hours and read what they have written on their site and absorb as much info as possible

they have been racing mutangs for years, i believe 15-20 and know a mustang in and out. i personally would only buy their stuff because of how much info they give you. my reasoning being that if they can explain THAT much, imagine what kind of R&D goes into their products. all the info they learn in the process would probably bore us and/or confuse us. i just think that they know what theyre doing and you couldnt go wrong with their parts. i wouldnt say youre buying a name, i would say youre buying R&D, parts that work, and parts that are track tested. i dont feel they over charge either. i mean, look at how inexpensive their Full length bare subs are. compared to say steeda's standard length

 

[KronicRacer]

with steeda online the bare subs are 139.00. in person its 129.00 basically its that thing ive been saying all along just a name. nothing different. steedas been in the game jsut as long as MM if not longer

one thing i did notice was in mm pics the crossbrace is unassembled. while the steeda crossbrace is assembled. go to the websites and check it out if you dont believe me. that also explains the higher prices on steedas part the guy running the welder has got to get paid
.

 

[Torinalth]

1 - good choice, the MM XLs will be going on my car when i finish paying off this engaguement ring. the best, period. reduces body flex under hard accelleration and braking, and slightl body rol reduction.

2 - tower brace i'd leave alone personaly. its mixed reviews, though that really know their suspension say that adding it only really helps when in extreme cornering just before breaking the limit.... though it IS noticible when you hit this point. i dont have one so i cant make my comment. it is on the back burner for me.

3 - I'd not go eibach personally.. i'd do either the steeda or cobra front sway bar (with poly bushings) and the rear MM adjustable. the swaybars keep the car flatter in the corner by limiting the up and down travel of the right side wheel in corrispondance to the left.... problem, if you go too stiff you will just slide, or bring the inside tire off the ground in a turn de[ending on grip. rear adjustable swaybar is the key as it can be altered longer and shorter to increase or reduce both overster and understeer.

4 - MM LCAs are a good choice. i am thinking of getting the steeda steel ones as i am having issues with money currently. the LCAs will further prevent axle movement in general, but the bushings will allow for the suspension to do a better job then the stock thus aiding in the amount of grip the rear tires have (especially in a strait line run)

the uppers are a toss up, a lot of people suggest them as a good point. i personally will not be getting them.

something else to keep in mind is tie rod ends, these connect the swaybar to the front LCA. i'd get larger ones with stiffer bushings, like steeda and MM have, to make the swaybar more effective at its job.

if ou really want to get into it, you might want to look into a panhard rod to keep the axle in place under cornering. it tends to step to the left and right under harder turns, also can cause overcorrection when you start to slip the back a little and the pull strait. has happened to me a few times, so i plan on getting one.

Torinalth

 

[Word_Life]

NEVER buy subframe connectors pre-powedcoated

I did


just make sure you know where to grind off the paint before you place it up to weld, then just paint over the welds

 

[jlhall_10]

The JLT wont fit with any current STB, thats from the man himself, Mr. Tucker

 

[VividDreams]

what about a kenne bell with a STB? yes, no?

 

[jlhall_10]

not sure about that, but it seems it might be a low enough profile that a GT one would fit, if not maybe a cobra STB?

 

[stng]

I need to chime in here for a second... I have done absolutely nothing to the susp on my mustang, nor have I ever on my previous ones... What would be the first/most important suspension mod. Please include brand to buy. Thank you and sorry for interupting.

 

[NewEngPatsFan]

I need to chime in here for a second... I have done absolutely nothing to the susp on my mustang, nor have I ever on my previous ones... What would be the first/most important suspension mod. Please include brand to buy. Thank you and sorry for interupting.

I've only done shocks/struts and a Maximum Motorsports panhard bar. I'm really impressed at the difference the panhard bar has made.

 

[Torinalth]

aye, springs and dampers first... the panhard on top of that will be surreal. though i am wanting the PHB, i have been told in my own thread that i should get the subframes first, then lower control arms, then the PHB... of course this is after the springs and dampers.

the kenne bell will not work with a STB, however, steeda has the oversized one available, but you need a cowel hood.... i do however want to know if the Evo spider brace will work with an intake... need to E-mail them.

Torinalth

 

[VividDreams]

pics of that brace?