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Suspension Gurus, Educate Me in HERE

  • Thread starter Thread starter Blinkstang
  • Start date Start date Oct 7, 2005
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Blinkstang

Member
Apr 2, 2005
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Chicago, IL
Oct 7, 2005
#21
  • Oct 7, 2005
  • #21
Thanks for the replies and input everyone has given. A lot of great info, that has cleared up many questions I had. The MM XL Subframes seem like a great mod for the money, I will definetly be picking up a set of these soon, in bare steel.

jlhall_10 thanks for your post, I will be getting a JLT RAI in the near future, and thats good to know, looks like a strut tower brace is out of the question.

A lot of you mentioned the panhard bar, which I was also looking at when visiting MM's website. Definetly looks like a worthwhile mod after some other suspension modifications have been done.

Thank you for those that suggested MM LCA's, I think this is another great suspension mod that I will be performing as well. I want to have better rear tire grip in the rear end, as well as get rid of some wheel hop.

Thank you to 1fast03pony and Torinalth for your detailed responses and experience with some of these products.

Thanks as well to twogts4us for the great pic of your subframes!

Im switching my exhaust setup this weekend, from MAC LT Headers and O/R Prochamber to BBK LT Headers and a BBK O/R H. Very pleased with the quality in the new BBK parts, was not happy with the MAC setup. After this is done, I will start working on the suspension again.

Keep the comments coming!

 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
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79
60
Dunedin, FL
Oct 8, 2005
#22
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #22
stng said:
I need to chime in here for a second... I have done absolutely nothing to the susp on my mustang, nor have I ever on my previous ones... What would be the first/most important suspension mod. Please include brand to buy. Thank you and sorry for interupting.
Click to expand...
Maximum Motorsport or Steeda full length subframe connectors, without a doubt. To me, it just seems logical to tie up what you already have, then begin replacing sub-par OEM parts (shocks, struts, springs, CC plates, control arms, bushing, etc).
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
4,188
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Oct 8, 2005
#23
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #23
Toms_2003_Stang said:
TwoGTs4Us

Did you notice a difference after you had the SFC's installed? Im gonna get mine installed tommorow .
Click to expand...
Yep, huge difference - throw it into a familiar corner and feel how it doesn't flex nearly as much as it did. And when accellerating, you'll notice more lift and go rather than twisting...some of this is more subtle than others, but you will notice a big difference...maybe not on every turn. It should have come this way from the factory.
 

1fast03pony

Member
Jul 1, 2003
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Oct 8, 2005
#24
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #24
yeah dont get the powdercoated MM XL subframes.. you might have to grind the weld areas that might take a long time

Panhard bar and subframes are probably the most noticable improvements you can do to your chassis/suspension.
 

twogts4us

15 Year Member
Apr 1, 2004
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Oct 8, 2005
#25
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #25
1fast03pony said:
yeah dont get the powdercoated MM XL subframes.. you might have to grind the weld areas that might take a long time
Click to expand...
The point was NOT the TIME it would take to grind the powdercoat off (nobody but you made that point), but the mere fact that you paid to have it powdercoat only to have to grind off several areas to actually have them installed on the car. So, next time, make sure when you that you are accurate in your assessment. Obviously here, you are not.
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
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78
McLean Hospital
Oct 8, 2005
#26
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #26
so what's the problem with powdercoated pieces?

I only ground off 5% maybe even less, what was needed to weld, it's not like the whole thing needs to be ground off.
 

1fast03pony

Member
Jul 1, 2003
749
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Oct 8, 2005
#27
  • Oct 8, 2005
  • #27
twogts4us said:
The point was NOT the TIME it would take to grind the powdercoat off (nobody but you made that point), but the mere fact that you paid to have it powdercoat only to have to grind off several areas to actually have them installed on the car. So, next time, make sure when you that you are accurate in your assessment. Obviously here, you are not.
Click to expand...


EDIT

not going to bother arguing such a trivial subject such as powdercoating. It doesn't change the way the thing works. Either one is fine, powdercoated or bare. Just depends on if you wanna spend extra time grinding or if you wanna spend time spraying.
 
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