Suspension help for new 02 Gt owner

Letchcore

New Member
May 17, 2011
14
1
3
Nashville
I picked up a 02 GT covrt the other day. This is my first ever Mustang. I also own a 2011 F150 w/ the 5.0L(awsome!). I have been going through the Stang and fixing small things. Its got 117K miles but is in very good condition. I replaced all the light lens, carpet, flow masters, air aid CAI, and got a set of Michelin pilot sport a/s plus tires! Amazing tires!

I daily drive this car and it has some rattles and squeeks. I ordered the MM strut tower brace and full length subframe conectors which im told these two upgrades address alot of the rattles and make the body much more ridged so the suspension can do its job.

I want to lower the stang a little and also replace all the control arm, A arm and coil isolators. I really would like to keep it riding as smooth as possible. I dont care as much about superior handling.

What springs give a really good ride? Should I stick with factory rubber bushings? Do poly bushings make the ride more harsh?

Thanks for your help!:flag:
 
  • Sponsors (?)


So from my reasearch eibach progressive rate springs have the lowest spring rates. I guess I could give them a try. I am still concerned if poly bushings increase the ride harshness....

Also I was quoted $700 to install MM full length sub frame connectors. I guess I will suck it up and do it myself.
 
So from my reasearch eibach progressive rate springs have the lowest spring rates. I guess I could give them a try. I am still concerned if poly bushings increase the ride harshness....

Also I was quoted $700 to install MM full length sub frame connectors. I guess I will suck it up and do it myself.

The shop you went to either doesn't want to do them or doesn't have a clue. At most I would pay $300 for subframe connectors. It should only take 2-3 hours and I believe MM quotes 2 1/2 hrs for them. Biggest thing about the install is that you have all 4 wheels on the ground or the weight of the car fully on the wheels otherwise it won't be right. Drive on lift basically.
 
I picked up a 02 GT covrt the other day. This is my first ever Mustang. I also own a 2011 F150 w/ the 5.0L(awsome!). I have been going through the Stang and fixing small things. Its got 117K miles but is in very good condition. I replaced all the light lens, carpet, flow masters, air aid CAI, and got a set of Michelin pilot sport a/s plus tires! Amazing tires!

I daily drive this car and it has some rattles and squeeks. I ordered the MM strut tower brace and full length subframe conectors which im told these two upgrades address alot of the rattles and make the body much more ridged so the suspension can do its job.

I want to lower the stang a little and also replace all the control arm, A arm and coil isolators. I really would like to keep it riding as smooth as possible. I dont care as much about superior handling.

What springs give a really good ride? Should I stick with factory rubber bushings? Do poly bushings make the ride more harsh?

Thanks for your help!:flag:


I'd recommend these control arms: 99-04 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

Their polyurethane bushings tighten up some of the factory arms' slop, but I wouldn't say they're harsh at all.
 
I'd recommend these control arms: 99-04 Mustang Elite Chrome Moly Urethane Control Arm Suspension Kit

Their polyurethane bushings tighten up some of the factory arms' slop, but I wouldn't say they're harsh at all.

Cool thanks.

I cant find a good shop that installs subframe connectors near Nashville TN. The shop that quoted me $700 said it would take 7 hours at $95 per hour. :jaw: Unfortunatly alot of people have money around here so I bet they get people to pay that. I am fully capable of doing it myself but I dont have a lift so it would be a little difficult on my back on jackstands. I know an offroad shop that has a lift that I will see if they can help out.
 
Ask a Ford dealer if they'll put them on. The shop quoting 7 hours isn't qualified to change oil. Any performance shop or dealer can do it. Some Ford dealers only do factory replaecment work, but 99-04 verts could receive dealer-installed SFC's to address ride and vibration issues so most Ford dealers are likely to have someone familiar with what needs to happen.

And again, this is important, you don't weld subframe connectors on using jackstands or lifting the car by jacking points. It NEEDS to be done with the weight on the wheels, as the car would normal sit on the ground.
 
Springs

I installed Ford M-5300-G springs on my 00 Vert, they're made by Eipach, the ride is very good and they lowered the car 1 3/8" on all 4 corners, with a full tank of fuel, the rear will rise a 1/4" or so depending on the fuel level.

I also installed a MM strut tower brace which is a very high quality part that bolts to the pinch weld on the fire wall. The only problem I had with it is I had to trim the BBK CAI to clear the brace, very tight fit, it truly helped with the creaking noises.

My next project is to install Global West subframe connectors, Brenspeed is doing the work in June not sure on the cost yet?

Good luck on your mods...
 

Attachments

  • DSC00811.jpg
    DSC00811.jpg
    194.7 KB · Views: 63
  • DSC02500.jpg
    DSC02500.jpg
    192.2 KB · Views: 76
Biggest thing about the install is that you have all 4 wheels on the ground or the weight of the car fully on the wheels otherwise it won't be right. Drive on lift basically.

Huge Thread-jack:
Well that just put a wrench into my plans for this weekend. Haha. So you have to put the car on jack stands? Guess my four point lift wont work.

OP: Look into FRPP springs.
 
Huge Thread-jack:
Well that just put a wrench into my plans for this weekend. Haha. So you have to put the car on jack stands? Guess my four point lift wont work.

OP: Look into FRPP springs.

What type of lift is it? The swing arm type? If so it won't work. The reasoning is you want the normal load of the body weight on the suspension when stiffening it up, otherwise you will stiffen the suspension without the load being on it and it won't be good. The proper way is a drive on lift and to get most of the points welded. I had a shop do mine and it was done on the drive on lift and then only a few welds were finished on the post style lift because they couldn't get to the spots with the drive on.

This is what you will need or want to find:

View attachment 188217

Vrs this style of lift:

View attachment 188218
 
Cool thanks.

I cant find a good shop that installs subframe connectors near Nashville TN. The shop that quoted me $700 said it would take 7 hours at $95 per hour. :jaw: Unfortunatly alot of people have money around here so I bet they get people to pay that. I am fully capable of doing it myself but I dont have a lift so it would be a little difficult on my back on jackstands. I know an offroad shop that has a lift that I will see if they can help out.

You're welcome. You'll definitely like those UPR parts if you pick them up.

As for the subframe connectors, try muffler shops. They'll usually do work like that, and I'd imagine there are 100 or more muffler shops in and around Nashville.