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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

suspension help needed, on a budget

  • Thread starter Thread starter 306t5stocker
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2004
3

306t5stocker

New Member
Sep 14, 2004
5
0
0
Albany,NY
Sep 14, 2004
#1
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #1
the car, 1987 Mustang GT near stock.

the problem, near stock, both sides...

ok here goes i'm on a tight budget but i need to upgrade/fix my stang, it currently has 5yr old eibach lowering springs but i believe the shocks in the back are from b4 the car was lowered... i took the rear end apart on sunday and spun 1 shock (koni red adjustables... toast) and did nothing to the other 1. now previous to this the car sagged on the side that i spun, and after i put it back together it now sits level, leading me to believe that the car is riding on the shocks and not fully on the springs i don't know what to do cause the car is lowered and i have no clue what the spring rate or hieght is on the springs to get the right length shocks. should i go with a full replacement of the springs and shocks, should i go back to stock height or get new lowered springs or keep the old springs? i also did notice a lot of "bottoming-out" rubbing on my rubber axle stops on the undercarage and the axle itself. and in the end i need to know which is the best brand for the cash on the new parts i need?

the second part of the problem, it's a nearly stock car and i was looking for a little added turning edge, should i got with coil-overs or stick with the stock configuration? and in the end how much is that going to cost me and is it going to be a direct replacement i can do in my driveway?

thanks to those who post help, cause i need a lot of it
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Sep 14, 2004
#2
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #2
First of all, coil over's are the way to go. I have the Granatelli front coil overs but they are the drag kit and 90/10's. My car handles better than it did with stock springs on KYB's. I have Moroso springs in the rear, the right spring being tighter than the left to prevent squat on the RR and they do well, but I am going to still replace them with the Rear coil over kit. The two things I like about coil overs is the adjustibility of the ride hight and springs are cheap and easy to swap out. They also improve suspension geometery and save weight.

As far as shocks go, new shocks and struts can make a big difference. I run Lakewoods because I am going pure drag, but I guess you want to corner as well. I would suggest billstiens if you can afford them. They ride good and perform good. The Tokico's seem to be really popular. It's up to you.
 
A

autoXr1

Founding Member
May 3, 2001
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0
Michigan
Sep 14, 2004
#3
  • Sep 14, 2004
  • #3
Converting to coil-overs may improve the ride somewhat, and as already mentioned, may allow you to achieve better geometry (assuming you know how to do this). That said, you may be giving up a little inner wheel well if you are concerned about going with a widened tire/wheel combo. Front coil-overs often need tubular A-arms and HD castor/camber plates. So, there is often other parts that are needed to do the conversion, adding to the expense.

Visit the Maximum Motorsports website and check out their "sport-box" suspension system. I think this may be what you are looking for. It's a nicely balanced spring-shock-strut system (among other things) that will dramatically improve the handling and behavior of your 'stang.

As far as installation, I've done all of mine in my garage. Most things bolt in after drilling holes and such. You'll need at least one floor jack and 4 jack stands, pry bar, and the usual hand tools. After you install the parts, you will need to have it aligned (but don't go to a Tuffy, Midas, or the like) If it ain't stock, and sits even a bit lower than stock, they won't even look at it. I'm lucky in that I have a alignment shop that also does performance vehicles and custom set-ups. In addition, some parts, like panhard bars, rear antisway bars, and such may need their brackets welded to the chassis after you bolt them in.
 
3

306t5stocker

New Member
Sep 14, 2004
5
0
0
Albany,NY
Sep 15, 2004
#4
  • Sep 15, 2004
  • #4
thanks a bunch will look into it... hope all goes well with your future plans, i know any plan for mine is better than what's there now lol... TC and have fun, Tim.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Sep 15, 2004
#5
  • Sep 15, 2004
  • #5
autoXr1 said:
Converting to coil-overs may improve the ride somewhat, and as already mentioned, may allow you to achieve better geometry (assuming you know how to do this). That said, you may be giving up a little inner wheel well if you are concerned about going with a widened tire/wheel combo. Front coil-overs often need tubular A-arms and HD castor/camber plates. So, there is often other parts that are needed to do the conversion, adding to the expense.
Click to expand...

When I first got the coil over kit, I thought that I would have to put my stock wheels on because I have 17x9 Cobra R's with 255's up front but somehow the Cobra R's when on with absolutly no problem. You don't have to run aftermarket A-arms, but you do need some good C/C plates, I run the QA1's. I had to change how the hard lines to the brakes were run, that was the only thing that sucked.

autoXr1 said:
Visit the Maximum Motorsports website and check out their "sport-box" suspension system. I think this may be what you are looking for. It's a nicely balanced spring-shock-strut system (among other things) that will dramatically improve the handling and behavior of your 'stang.

As far as installation, I've done all of mine in my garage. Most things bolt in after drilling holes and such. You'll need at least one floor jack and 4 jack stands, pry bar, and the usual hand tools. After you install the parts, you will need to have it aligned (but don't go to a Tuffy, Midas, or the like) If it ain't stock, and sits even a bit lower than stock, they won't even look at it. I'm lucky in that I have a alignment shop that also does performance vehicles and custom set-ups. In addition, some parts, like panhard bars, rear antisway bars, and such may need their brackets welded to the chassis after you bolt them in.
Click to expand...

If a shop won't do the work it is because they probally don't know how becuase they are idiots and have no buisness working on cars. If someone refuses you, make sure to make a comment about finding someone who actually is literate and knows how a suspension works.
 
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