As poly flexes little and twists even less, how is this going to help? Do the shells not have the serrations?
Suspension Suspension problem--lowering springs gone wrong
- Thread starter forango
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HemiRick
I'd be looking at jacking under the house
OldManRiver
Active Member
In the case of these cars I've found that the free floating,nonbinding,and decreased wheel rate associated with the change to poly front control arm bushings help with DEcreasing impact harshness,far more than any increase of NVH one might associate with the change alone from rubber to poly in this position.
All this relies on the proper install since most,if not all polyurethane bushes will need trimming to obtain the no binding aspect and to eliminate the so called "poly squeak"
All this relies on the proper install since most,if not all polyurethane bushes will need trimming to obtain the no binding aspect and to eliminate the so called "poly squeak"
NO...i had them originally done at a shop and the shop tossed them...they might still have them but I am kind of not sure I could contact them and not loose my
since I paid money and the job was not done right
I don't know off hand, but I don't think your springs are the problem. Have you checked the cup area of the lower control arms yet to see if there is anything still in there from the old spring?
Yeah I cleaned it all out....all that was in there was caked up dirt and rust/crustiness....I sanded it out and blew all the debri out.
Does any of this look odd? Only thing I noticed is there is no sway bar on this car, is that a vert/84 model thing that didn't come with? Also, this is the pry bar I am using...I cannot get the spring to compress enough to get the rear to come within 2" of the perch.
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I have no problem swapping springs. Swapped a bunch both lowering and stock back in. What I haven't done is try it with the spindle on. I may be wrong and it works fine with it on. I couldn't do it like that. You need the spring as close to in place as you can, then use the pry bar head on. That's the best spot to keep the spring from popping out. You start slightly lifting the control arm with a jack (a second prison would help you) while using the pry bar to place to bottom of the spring. At first if you have the arm low enough, only the back side of the bottom will be touching the recessed area on the lower control arm. The pry bar keeps the spring from popping out as the jack slowly lifts the arm.
That's difficult to explain. Hope it's sorta understandable. You'll get it. We'll all keep helping till you do.
That's difficult to explain. Hope it's sorta understandable. You'll get it. We'll all keep helping till you do.
I have no idea who this is but this is how I do it. I do keep the pry bar on the spring as I'm jacking the control arm up because it often pops out. Takes a few tries sometimes. Nothing very difficult though. He did it with the spindle on so maybe I just need more room than most...lol.
View: https://youtu.be/XJXMuaocmMw
View: https://youtu.be/XJXMuaocmMw
ThinBlue502
5 Year Member
I have set out so many times to pay someone to do a job on the Mustang just to do it myself when the person I’m trying to pay has no idea what they’re doing. I always figure if they don’t know what they’re doing and neither do I, why pay?
Yes!! We do need a "reason." I asked for pics of the originals compared to the Ford Racing springs but the shop kept them. I'm hoping you remembered that and took one for us of the new ones compared to the tall sitting ones you took out?
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I am not sure if I took that pic I have to go back and look...I was so wrapped up in my nightmare(honestly if my cousin didn't come to visit this past weekend the car would still be on jack stands--lol) that I might have forgotten...but the newer springs I got were definitely 3/4--1" shorter, had one less coil in them, and the coils were farther apart so they had more flex in them. The odd thing is the ones that were "wrong" were rated 500--570lbs and I could not get them to compress with the pry bar hardly at all, maybe 1"...where as the new ones are rated 525lbs and the compressed a good 1-1.5" easily....the springs are the only thing I changed though so either they were the issue or me working on stuff "unbound" something.Yes!! We do need a "reason." I asked for pics of the originals compared to the Ford Racing springs but the shop kept them. I'm hoping you remembered that and took one for us of the new ones compared to the tall sitting ones you took out?
Well, now you know how to do springs.
And the shop that installed the last set is off the hook. It's always a risk to provide your own parts for someone else to install.
And the shop that installed the last set is off the hook. It's always a risk to provide your own parts for someone else to install.
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