suspension upgrades this winter...

scale21 · Dec 10, 2006

well im just about to pull the trigger and get some suspension upgrades.

i have a 91 LX Coupe.

Here is what im thinking

Bilstein HDs all around
Maximum Motorsports full length sub frame connectors
New Prothane spring Isolators

Either
H&R Sport springs
or
H&R Super Sport springs

I have a few questions

Do i go Sport or Super sport H&R springs. This is a hobby car. I dont plan to do much track if any. I just want somthing that is more fun to drive.

Next do i or should i replace the shock rubbers on the shocks or will they come with new? Im thinking the rubbers that go on the top of the shock towers in front as well as the rubbers in the trunk for the rear.

Also...should i pull my control arms and replace those bushings for the lowers while im in there?

Im also having trouble getting at the large nuts holding the quad shocks on (the lower....the upper i have removed already). If i try to get at it from the bolt side (the inside) I dont have much room to turn and i cant get them loose with a 1/2 ratchet and the car isnt on a lift so i cant get my braker bar in there. I can probably get access to a 1/2 impact wrench but that probably wont fit. I cant get a socket on the nut side of things as it is too close to the back side of the brake drum. I assume ill have to turn the bolt from the inside. Any tricks here?

Also when putting in the springs ill be replacing the stockers......the stock springs have a large rubber damper thing inside the spring. Is this thing necessary in the new springs? Not sure what they are for.....

Anything else i should take care of once im in there?

Any replies are appreciated......

bt15 · Dec 11, 2006

My 1985 suspension:

8.8 rear w/ Cadillac discs
1992 front spindles

(So, very similar to your baseline for comparison purposes)

Bilstein HDs
Global West Subframes (I hear MM quality is very good, too)
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs For the H&Rs, I'd say stick with the Sport vice Super Sports on a hobby car.
Prothane Perches / Isolators, bushings front and rear

The Bilstein HDs come with new urethane all around for all attachment points, so that's already decided for you.

I'd say pull the control arms, and consider Steeda X2 balljoints and an offset rack. Truthfully, though, I did NOT do these things, and have run my car HARD at Virginia Intl. Raceway with not a single bumpsteer problem, or any real loss of feel or control. If it's good enough without them on the track, it's probably good enough without them on a hobby car. But, it's somewhat wallet and time permitting.

The rubber damper thing in the springs is supposedly a factory attempt to help control noise. I removed them from my car and haven't noticed any difference in noise, though.

I can't remember what I did to get at the lower quad shock nuts. Does lowering / raising the rear seem to change your perspective and grant you access? I remember it was tight, but believe I took it off with a 1/2 inch pneumatic and a box end wrench, but don't exactly recall. At work right now, so can't look.... Maybe an extension allowed me to get past the interloping component???

Good luck. Man, you will not be able to believe the difference in the way the car handles with these mods - and I think it looks better, too!

BT

BlooDReigN · Dec 11, 2006

Put a snipe on that ratchet. I seem to remember most of those suspension parts are around 100 ft/lbs so it's pretty tough to break loose with just a 1/2 ratchet.

Maryland Stang · Dec 12, 2006

scale21 said:
Also...should i pull my control arms and replace those bushings for the lowers while im in there?

You should replace all of the arms and bushings.

I have Steeda aluminum lowers with double adjustable uppers.

I used the bushings that came with the Steedas.

The double adjustable uppers don't use a bushing on the body side. On the rearend I used the bushings that Maximum Motorsports recommended, the 94 and newer factory bushing which is twice as strong as the 93 and older bushing.

There are lower cost setups than what I'm using. You can pick up both the uppers and lowers for around $200. The Steeda aluminum lowers are $250 by themselves.

A lot of people will tell you that you can just get by with doing the lowers which is what I did for 2 years. I did notice a difference like that but it was a dramatic difference when I changed the uppers too.

The whole back of the car now feels tight, really tight and both acceleration and decelaration (sp) act completely different.

scale21 · Dec 12, 2006

man i would do control arms and bushings but i dont have a lift or access to one.

Getting at those arms is a real pain. Getting at the uppers is almost impossble without a lift from what i can tell.....

Flavadave4 · Dec 12, 2006

I hear yeah, sometimes you have to know when to have someone else do the job that has better tools and (lifts) available!

Maryland Stang · Dec 12, 2006

scale21 said:
man i would do control arms and bushings but i dont have a lift or access to one.

Getting at those arms is a real pain. Getting at the uppers is almost impossble without a lift from what i can tell.....

I did mine with a jack and 2 jackstands. The lowers were considerably harder since the front bolts were seized into their bushings. If you do decide to do the uppers (not that hard to do, really) I recommend that you get MM's bushing removal/installation tool. At $34.95 it makes the bushings in the rear a lot easier to replace.

suspension upgrades this winter...

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