suspension upgrades

TestMe

New Member
Jan 14, 2009
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1
Lubbock TX
I am fixin to redo my suspension and was wanting to get some opinions on whats the best out there. I am gonna replace the lca's, phb, shock/struts, uca. I am also gonna put lowering springs on it. Do I need to put in lca relocation brackets and what about adjustable shocks/struts, I never take it to the track its a DD car? And is there anything else I am gonna need to make all this a smooth ride?
 
I recommend J&M for control arms. They have a good selection. The regular bushings are all you will need for the street. they are very unique and I noticed no noise increase after install. click the links in my signature, as my car is built with J&M parts.

If you dont race the car, I dont think the relocation brackets will be necessary. As far as the struts, adjustables are good for finding the perfect ride quality, even if you never plan on touching it again. most people dont change the adjustment once it is set anyway for the street.

you may need to install something to adjust the camber, depending on what springs you choose. the cheap method is camber bolts for about $10 each. a better choice, but more expensive would be camber plates. the camber plates and tokico d specstruts are also available from J&M.

Suspension
 
I have BMR Upper and Lower control arms and they have been great. When I get my tax return I'm planning on getting Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs and Tokico HP shocks and struts (non-adjustable). I don't really feel the need to spend the extra money on adjustable shocks/struts when I only go to the drag strip a couple times a year. Oh and you'll need an adjustable pan hard arm bar with most lowering springs.
 
I also opted for BMR all around (see sig) , taken at stangsuspension.com ; they are great on tracks and course racing . This month I changed the springs only and switched to the ford racink K , and I'm very happy - less extreme than bmr on bumpy roads and so more streatable . I have still to test the ford K on tracks so I cannot say if these are up to the previous BMR .
I think that for a DD ford racing K springs are a good choice ; I really love the bmr when engaging turns on tracks - I'll see how the K perform next month :D

In general I can say that if you drop the rear more than 1.25 you should get the relocation brackets , especially if your car has over 300 rwhp ; keep in mind that the more you lower , the more you get a stiff car that deslikes bumpy roads , whichever shocks and bars you use .

Good luck with any choice you make .

Steel
 
I went all out. I figured I was going to do it once and do it right, so I threw all the Steeda stuff at it. I only want to pay for installation once and I am going to keep this car until it gets crashed or the wheels fall off. I thought about doing it all myself, but I went ahead and paid a pro tuning shop (Modular Power House, Cartersville, GA) to do it. If you are paying for installation it is worth it to do it all at once vs. a bit here and there - you pay more for installation if you nibble at it.

I had the adjustable lower trailing arm links put in (welded) along with camber correctors (welded) and panhard bar brace (all welded). I went with Steeda Springs, Steeda upper strut mounts, adjustable upper 3rd link, billet LCA's, adjustable Tokico D-Spec shocks and struts, Panhard Bar, Panhard Bar Brace, front and rear sway bars, billet swaybar endlinks, bump-steer correction kit, ie the whole banana. It is the Steeda Club Racer Stages 1 and 2 with billet upgrades. If you call Steeda they can make custom packages for you and give you a package discount.

I don't know what it is like yet - I get it back the first part of next week.

I almost went with Roush since my car is a Roush, but I didn't want the basic Roush setup since I wanted adjustable shocks and struts, and I have read excellent reviews on the Tokico D-Specs that Steeda sells.

With this setup I am hoping to have killer control on the street or I can also :Track:

I can tell you the car was a handful with stock suspension and the supercharger on there. It wanted to just break the back end loose and point itself wherever it felt like - including trying to swap ends and spin out. I got spoiled because I used to have a BMW M3...this solid rear axle sucks. BUT you cannot beat the 'Stang style and the grunt of that V8.

Steeda claims you can pull 1.3 lateral G's on the skidpad with this setup and still have a good ride. We shall see.

The GT brakes suck. Those are next on my list. I wish the steeda ones came in RED. May have to get some Bimbos.