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Suspension Sway Bar End Links -

  • Thread starter Thread starter cdurbin
  • Start date Start date Aug 2, 2012

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 2, 2012
#1
  • Aug 2, 2012
  • #1
Has anyone ever changed out the sway bar end links before? I was told that they need to be replaced.
Just wondering how difficult that is to do. Also if I read correctly, the front and rear take the same end links? Thanks
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
5,232
2,652
223
gainesville
Aug 2, 2012
#2
  • Aug 2, 2012
  • #2
Rear sway bar bolts directly to the frame the front end links are a 2 on the difficulty scale only because you may get your hands dirty. In many cars they have rotted and fallen off completely making your job just that much easier.
 
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ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
1,659
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49
Spokane Valley, WA
Aug 2, 2012
#3
  • Aug 2, 2012
  • #3
Piece of cake.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
1,562
480
94
Fort Myers, Florida
Aug 2, 2012
#4
  • Aug 2, 2012
  • #4
Actually the rear swaybar bolts directly to the control arms, and doesn't ever contact the frame.

The front swaybar endlinks are super easy to replace, except in some cases I've seen where they're rusted so badly they need to be cut off. However, the end links are easily accessible, and IIRC, they use a 14mm (or 9/16") nut top and bottom.
 
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cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 2, 2012
#5
  • Aug 2, 2012
  • #5
Cool. I picked up a set to put on this weekend.
Thanks
 
Reactions: Sharad

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 3, 2012
#6
  • Aug 3, 2012
  • #6
Sharad said:
Actually the rear swaybar bolts directly to the control arms, and doesn't ever contact the frame.

The front swaybar endlinks are super easy to replace, except in some cases I've seen where they're rusted so badly they need to be cut off. However, the end links are easily accessible, and IIRC, they use a 14mm (or 9/16") nut top and bottom.
Click to expand...

Another question, Do I need to jack both sides up at once or can I change them one at a time?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
7,387
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Kearney, NE
Aug 3, 2012
#7
  • Aug 3, 2012
  • #7
If the front is not level, the bar will be pushing, trying to level the car. The front must be level while doing this. Keep one side's hardware as loose as possible while working on the other side. Same story if you also do the bar to subframe bushings too. Otherwise the bar gets a bit heavy and an extra hand is needed.

Go poly on the end links , not rubber, or you will be doing this again after enthusiastic driving. I have NEVER regretted doing this on any of my cars. If you do the middle ones too, it will tighten up handling a bit; but clean up the hardware and use the right grease. The frame bushings can squeak sometimes if not clean and when cold.
 

Sharad

ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Jan 5, 2011
1,562
480
94
Fort Myers, Florida
Aug 8, 2012
#8
  • Aug 8, 2012
  • #8
cdurbin said:
Another question, Do I need to jack both sides up at once or can I change them one at a time?
Click to expand...

yup, what 7991LXnSHO said. They have to be even, left to right. Otherwise the swaybar is under tension and you can't mess with it like that.
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 9, 2012
#9
  • Aug 9, 2012
  • #9
7991LXnSHO said:
If the front is not level, the bar will be pushing, trying to level the car. The front must be level while doing this. Keep one side's hardware as loose as possible while working on the other side. Same story if you also do the bar to subframe bushings too. Otherwise the bar gets a bit heavy and an extra hand is needed.

Go poly on the end links , not rubber, or you will be doing this again after enthusiastic driving. I have NEVER regretted doing this on any of my cars. If you do the middle ones too, it will tighten up handling a bit; but clean up the hardware and use the right grease. The frame bushings can squeak sometimes if not clean and when cold.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I ordered the kit from LateModelResto. Should be in this weekend.
Thanks for the advice.
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
1,094
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124
Phoenix
Aug 10, 2012
#10
  • Aug 10, 2012
  • #10
It's kinda unusual to need new endlinks unless you've changed the ride height of the car. What was wrong with the old ones? Were they bent or broken? If so, you shouldn't be replacing them with the same length links, and you probably need shorter ones. Were the links OK, but the bushings were worn out? If so, you can get new urethane ones them at the local parts store. In fact you can get the links there too, in various lengths.
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 10, 2012
#11
  • Aug 10, 2012
  • #11
MFE92 said:
It's kinda unusual to need new endlinks unless you've changed the ride height of the car. What was wrong with the old ones? Were they bent or broken? If so, you shouldn't be replacing them with the same length links, and you probably need shorter ones. Were the links OK, but the bushings were worn out? If so, you can get new urethane ones them at the local parts store. In fact you can get the links there too, in various lengths.
Click to expand...

They aren't bent or anything like that. The rubber bushings are just shot. The car has been lowered though. I'll have to check and see if I need shorter ones.
Thanks for pointing that out.
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
1,094
373
124
Phoenix
Aug 10, 2012
#12
  • Aug 10, 2012
  • #12
It's really only the sleeves that need to be shorter, so if you find out they're too long, you can always just cut them to length.
 

pissedoff92

Member
Aug 14, 2011
288
7
18
western new york
Aug 10, 2012
#13
  • Aug 10, 2012
  • #13
Yea +1 on doing both at once. I recommend having a buddy do one side while you do the other. And get them both threaded finger tight before you tighten up one side. Doing only one side can be a PITA with tension on the swaybar.
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 16, 2012
#14
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #14
Ok, I got all the new bushings and end links ready to go. Now I have another question.
I had the car jacked up on stands in the front. I'm starting to remove one of the subframe bushing bolts and a piece of plastic breaks off off the top side of the bracket. It looks like some sort of plastic "nut plate" that the two bolts screw into.
They are pretty much cracked and going to fall apart if I take them off. What the heck is that thing and do I need to buy somemore before I continue? I don't want to screw anything up. Hopefully I explained well enough for you guys to know what I'm talking about.
 
S

sd331

Member
Sep 9, 2008
69
19
18
NJ
Aug 16, 2012
#15
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #15
you dont need the plastic part, just use the nuts on top
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 16, 2012
#16
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #16
sd331 said:
you dont need the plastic part, just use the nuts on top
Click to expand...

Ok, good deal. It was hard to see and I couldn't really tell what it was.
Thanks
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
1,094
373
124
Phoenix
Aug 16, 2012
#17
  • Aug 16, 2012
  • #17
The plastic part just holds the nuts in place for factory installation.
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 17, 2012
#18
  • Aug 17, 2012
  • #18
Great. Thanks for the info. As you guys can tell, I'm pretty green at this stuff.
 

cdurbin

5 Year Member
Jul 27, 2012
563
109
64
North Charleston, SC
Aug 18, 2012
#19
  • Aug 18, 2012
  • #19
I managed to get everything replaced with no issues.
Really wasn't bad at all. Thanks again
 
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