T-5 swap - cable/hyd, yoke/shaft??

[bdepedro]

After reading through a number of old T-5 swap posts I have made a few decisions and have a few questions.

I'm planning on using a late model bellhousing and clutch lever.

I was planning on converting the linkage to hydrolic but was recently told that my power brake booster convertion might get in the way. Is this typically a problem and is the same problem encountered using a cable conversion kit? I also am running long tube headers incase that effects my options.

I also read that the speedo cable should be changed from a manual to auto since I'm changing from a toploader. Is that right?

I've read that approx. 1" should be cut from the driveshaft but also read in a thread that a conversion slip yoke is 1" shorter and would not require the driveshaft to be cut. Is this true?

On another thread I read that a throw out lever fulcrum adapter kit is required due to a 3/4" difference.

So far I have the trans, late model bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate, and clutch lever and am trying to figure out all the other pieces I will need for the conversion. This is what I'm thinking I need:
swap crossmember
cable or hyd clutch linkage
auto speedo cable
slip yoke
throw out fulcrum adapter kit
block plate and clutch lever cover
drive shaft shortened?

Any clarity you could shed on these questions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rusty67]

After reading through a number of old T-5 swap posts I have made a few decisions and have a few questions.

I'm planning on using a late model bellhousing and clutch lever.

I was planning on converting the linkage to hydrolic but was recently told that my power brake booster convertion might get in the way. Is this typically a problem and is the same problem encountered using a cable conversion kit? I also am running long tube headers incase that effects my options.

I also read that the speedo cable should be changed from a manual to auto since I'm changing from a toploader. Is that right?

I've read that approx. 1" should be cut from the driveshaft but also read in a thread that a conversion slip yoke is 1" shorter and would not require the driveshaft to be cut. Is this true?

On another thread I read that a throw out lever fulcrum adapter kit is required due to a 3/4" difference.

So far I have the trans, late model bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate, and clutch lever and am trying to figure out all the other pieces I will need for the conversion. This is what I'm thinking I need:
swap crossmember
cable or hyd clutch linkage
auto speedo cable
slip yoke
throw out fulcrum adapter kit
block plate and clutch lever cover
drive shaft shortened?

Any clarity you could shed on these questions would be greatly appreciated.

It really depends on the booster you have and which MC you use for the hydrolic setup. There is a complete hydrolic setup available in the classic classifieds for fairly cheap BTW.

The speedo cable isn't what you need to change, its the gear at the end that goes into the trans. The T5 uses the same type of gear as a C4.

I've never heard of a throw out fulcrum adapter kit.

Clutch lever AKA clutch fork =)

The drive shaft issue is the one thing that I have had a tough time nailing down. Seems like everyone has a different story and they all seem to work for that person. I had a new one made from scratch and it fits great.

 

[bdepedro]

I bought the brake booster/master kit on e-bay but I guess what I need to do is to look at the hydrolic clutch kit slave cyl and measure the space needed and compare that to what the brake booster allows.

With the speedo, I need to change the gear from a toploader to a C4. What I had read is that the T-5 speedo input is on the driver's side vs the passenger side toploader so the cable would be too long, hence the shorter auto cable.?

I'd never heard of this before either but I read it somewhere.

Ok, clutch fork.

Yeah, the driveshaft seems to be a big variable. A friend of mine was able to bolt in an alum drive shaft from a 2x4 Explorer into his '65 fastback. My '70 has a longer wheelbase but he doesn't know whether his shaft came from a 4-door or a 2-door. Still a possibility.

 

[Rusty67]

You can also get an aluminum drive shaft out of some early-mid 90s vans and have them shortened.

The cable length shouldn't be too much of an issue. You can always try it and see if it works even though its long and if it doesn't then switch it out later. I think a new cable is like 40 bux.

 

[bdepedro]

I had the same thoughts on both issues. The only thing I'll have to check is the cost difference in welding a steal vs. alum shaft. If it's a big diff then I'll just use my original one.

I also checked out the hyd clutch kit in the classified section. The reason he is selling it is he's going to use a cable and even switched to Hedman headers to get clearance. I'm running hedman headers so that may work for me as well.

 

[voipguy]

I'm doing the T5 swap using the late model bellhousing as well.

The fulcrum kit is needed if your going to use the original Z bar that your toploader used. Since your using a cable or hydraulic setup....it's not needed.

I don't have power brakes....so I can't say.

I called moderndriveline and ordered a new cable (correct length) with the correct gear.

From everything I've read, 1" needs to be cut from the driveline.

parts needed:
Clutch cable
speedo cable
trans mount
crossmember
slip yoke
T5 block plate
clutch cover
new clutch set

On my '65 I had to trim some of the floor board where the shifter comes thru so it would fit! Very common from the articles I've read. Just be aware.

I ordered most of my parts from cjponyparts. They usually run 10% off sales on Fridays.

Good luck.

 

[bdepedro]

The fulcrum kit is needed if your going to use the original Z bar that your toploader used. Since your using a cable or hydraulic setup....it's not needed.

Ahh, that makes sense. So, I can delete that from my list.

Thanks