Tail Shaft won't go on

[Lawbreaker5.0]

I prefer black rtv

pull it apart and pull the lid and slide the slider between 1 and 2, then the other one 3 and 4, then 5 and r, doing this all manually. Rotate it and check to be sure the keys are all there and not broken.

once you've checked this, put the lid and tail on, and bench shift it a billion times to make sure it's good.

believe me i will. i can't decide if i should wait til my ford friend can get me the whole king cobra kit for 90 bucks plus shipping and put that in or take the chance with this mongoose kc copycat.

What would you do?

The only stuff you need the endplay gauge for is when you install the countergear and measuring play in the input and mainshaft. Other than that, all the other inspections are purely visual.

Mopstly you just look over the gears and their dog teeth and sliders and replace any that show wear. The reverse teeth tend to round over as well. Usually the reverse idler is always well rounded over. $30 or so for a new one on ebay. Also check the mainshaft tip where the 15 small roller bearings run. I've seen these score up and they make a hum noise when they do. Basically if anything looks worn, replace it. All the dog teeth should look crisp, sharp and semetrical. If one side looks damager or the heads are starting to round over, replace them...same goes for the blocker rings, but those are usually replaced in a rebuild anyway.

It's pretty much all visual inspection. The mainshaft goes together 1 way pretty much,and most of it is snap ringed in place, so tolerances aren't key really. The import thing is shimming the countergear and the input shaft correctly. Everything else is pretty easy.

seems pretty straightforward. You saw the chip on 1st gear? is it worth changing now or letting it ride out? is 1st gear relevently easy to change without taking off the other gears? as the manual reads it talks about dis assembling 5th first and so on, so i assume 1st is last? if so, id prob rather hold off.

i plan on buying a junk t5 and practice rebuilding that while i have a t5 that works (hopefully lol) in the car.

Also whats the easiest and best way to apply the bead to the tailshaft? on the actual tailshaft or trans case? and to get the tailshaft on while holding the ball and spring in place? with the trans facing up and down or horizontal. last time i basically straddled the trans case while sliding the tail shaft on, seem like it worked at the time but obviously i missed a spot. i did a huge beed thinking that it might help.

thanks alot guys, i really appreciate the help. i'm gonna try to tackle this early next week.

edit: whats a key?

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

even though i haven't received a reply on the last post i do have an UPDATE.

i pulled the trans tonight despite all the homework and projects i have. lol. so when i started tapping the roll pin out of the shifter the thing was turning a lot left and right which makes me think the ball wasn't in there correctly. the last time i tapped it through the shifter stayed pretty still and straight up and down.

i pulled the tailshaft and the lid and everything was in nueatral, which i don't understand becuase you have to pull the shaft out to pull the shifter thing out. Anyway i'm sure that the 1-2 and 3-4 syncros are in nuetral now but not sure how to manualy move the R-5 syncro to make sure its in nuetral.

i believe the leaking was coming from the tailshaft to case but i also thought there was some coming between the bearing retainer and case.

two questions

where exactly do i apply rtv on the retainer? is it only on the flat part that mates the trans or do i also put it on the circle part that inserts into the case as well?

and how tight do i tighten the tailshaft bolts? i don't have a vice so when i was tightening them the last time i was basically holding the case a little and tightening the bolts with one hand on the ratchet?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well, to see if 5th and 5 are in nuetral, just look at the position of the synchro in the tailhousing area. Is it pressed onto the gear engaging the teeth? If not, then 5th is not engaged.

Look down into the case at the small reverse idler gear, is it lined up with the straigh teeth on the 1/2 synchro slider? If it's offset, then reverse isn't engaged.

Easy way to tell is simply hold the tailshaft still with one and and spin the input shaft. If they move independant, then you are in neutral.

Slap the RTV all over the tailhousing and bolt it up. As for how tight, manual specs at 23 ft-lbs of torque...which is usually about as tight as you can get with a rachet

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

well i mocked it up and the trans shifted fine. the first intiall going into 1st was hard but once i ran through them, they all seem fined, i went through them mutiple times. i decided to seal the lid but stopped there. i should resume tommorrow.

any word on rtv'ing the bearing retainer?

thanks again

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

UPDATE

well like i previously stated, i mocked up the trans and it seemed to shift fine.

i finished putting the exhaust on today and of course the shifter last.

While the car was up in the air i decided to jump in and put the shifter on, before rtv'ing if. i intially had trouble going into first but it went in. It seems that going into 1st and 2nd pop choice going in, the first pop (sorry i don't know how else to explain it) it goes halfway looking between the bump stops and then it pops into gear. 3rd did it as well but not as bad. 4th and 5th had no problem and it slided in with no pops/clunks. Reverse had trouble going in. i had to muscle it in. Once it was in it could go in with ease. But if i go directly back to 1st i would have trouble getting it to "pop twice".

All and all it would go in every gear with a little extra pull/push.

What i don't understand is that when the trans was out after i rtv'ed it shifted fine, with little ease going into each gear.

Please help, i'm very frustrated with this, especially knowing that nothing was wrong with my trans in the first place and i never took anything apart.


this was with the not pushing the clutch. i tried pushing the clutch and it did not help.

thanks

 

[Mustang5L5]

Well, without pushing the clutch in, it's not going to fully seat into gear. When it's on the bench, the inpiut and mainshaft are free to move, so any little misalignment is taken care of the trans pops into gear easy.

In the car, with the cluthc out and engine off, you have the clutch holding the input shaft stiff, and the driveshaft restricting the mainshaft. So if there is any misalignment, it is unable to fix itself because they two shafts can't move.

My car does the same thing.

You really need to check by driving really.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

yeah. i figured that. i'm about to go test drive it.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

shifted fine, even when i put it in reverse to get out of the drive way. Only got to go down the block cuz the tire still rubs up front. i'm gonna take it to a frame shop next week and see if the frame can be bent back.