Take a look at my setup, anything else I should do?

astronut1885 · Jan 9, 2004

Hey guys. I am in the middle of redoing my motor over the winter, and I was wondering what you thought. Here's the plan:

Explorer (GT40) Intake w/ 1" phenolic spacer
New GT40P heads with 1.84 intake/1.54 exhaust valves
FRPP P 1 5/8" shorty headers
255 LPH fuel pump
MAF conversion calibrated for 24lb injectors
24lb injectors
65 mm throttle body and spacer
1.6 roller rockers

Is there anything I should be adding while this work is being done. I don't want to have to pull the top end apart again for a long time to add something else. Also, wht kind of power should I be putting down to the rear wheels when this is all combined with my other mods in my sig?
Thanks guys!

TIMMY2734 · Jan 9, 2004

Are you getting a new cam as well?

redterror302 · Jan 10, 2004

Are you planning on getting the cobra mass air upgrade kit or whatever that is? The one that comes with the 24 lb injectors and the 70mm mass air sensor? I am not sure what everyone thinks, but I heard that you would be better off getting a used setup off of a car and getting the better mass air sensor and the injectors elsewhere. I hear the cobra computer are touchy. Just what I heard though.

Also like Timmy asked, what about the cam? If you ever plan on a cam, now would be the best time to install the thing, while you have the whole motor apart. If you aren't going with a new cam, then maybe look into getting some 1.7 ratio roller rockers. All the increased air flow would benefit with that additional lift it would give you.

Oh yeah, when I do my h/c/i combo this spring, I plan on giving it a full tune up to make sure everything is running right. Even though it hasn't been long since it's last tune up, I just want to make sure everything will be in its best condition. If you are putting in the higher flow fuel pump, you will need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. And I would get a new fuel filter to make sure things are flowing right. I would get new spark plugs, because it will be easy to swap them with the motor taken apart, and so on.

Just trying to think of what else you might want to do.....

Chris

astronut1885 · Jan 10, 2004

No cam right now, but I did plan on doing new plugs and a tune up. I didn't know about the adj. fuel pressure regulator though. The injectors and MAF sensor are coming from that Cobra MAF conversion kit, but the computer is coming out of a 93 LX 5 spd. The 1.6 RR are 100.00 from a friend, so that's why I am getting them. Any ideas on RWHP?

bgjohnson · Jan 10, 2004

well when doing a rebuild it is suggested that you replace the timing chain and gears, that's what I'm doin, they are about 69 bucks, and why not just buy a cam that costs 140 while you've gotten everything apart. oh yeah and my timing chain was way out out of spec and that was just with 115k on it, and it was probably throwin my timing off a little bit, so it is worth it to buy a new one.

nito88stang · Jan 10, 2004

be sure to keep some money handy for the little stuff. Its the little stuff that adds up SOOOOOOOOOOOO fast. When you open up the motor you may find pushrods or lifters that need replacing. Timing chain is a must. Also get some ARP head bolts dont use the stock ones again. And of course the gasket set.

The stuff i just listed can easily add up to 300 bux. yowza.

astronut1885 · Jan 10, 2004

I already have locking header bolts for my MACs. Timing chain, huh? Is that a necessity? If I have to do that then I might as well do the cam.

Oh, you said head bolts. Why can't I use the stock ones again?

mustangmuscle87 · Jan 10, 2004

well when doing a rebuild it is suggested that you replace the timing chain and gears, that's what I'm doin, they are about 69 bucks, and why not just buy a cam that costs 140 while you've gotten everything apart

I would definitly change timing chain and buy a diffrent cam

NKau · Jan 10, 2004

Even if you don't change cams AT LEAST replace the timing chain. You will regret it if you don't.

astronut1885 · Jan 10, 2004

Forgot to mention, this car is my daily driver and needs to stay street friendly.

astronut1885 · Jan 10, 2004

I looked into a cam, but it would throw another 300+ dollars into my plan to buy a camshaft, roller lifters, valve springs, and all of that. I can't afford that now so a cam is out. What kind of timing chain should I get? I found one on Summit by Ford Racing that is like 70.00 and is specifically designed for high HP cars. Is that good?

nito88stang · Jan 10, 2004

You cant use the stock head bolts because they are torque-to-yield head bolts are are usually good for only one use. Remember, there are explosions happening under your head, would you trust the stock old head bolts to hold the head down?

wildstang347 · Jan 10, 2004

generally the roller lifters are still reusable, being roller they dont wear out as fast as non roller lifters.
so a cam change would be a tad bit cheaper than you think, but you definitely will need to change the springs with the cam or it could become a disaster eventually, and besides the stock springs with the P heads arent designed for performance use.
some of the P heads were offered with the upgraded spring kit, and to tell if you have them, look at the exhaust valves and see if they have the rotators on them. if they look differently then the intake side they are OEM type springs. for one of my cheap rebuilds ive done for a pickup i ordered some cranes beehive spring kits for OEM heads from jegs that come complete with everything safely being able 2 handle any of fords raceings 303 series cams, for just under a 100$ (no head machine work required) and it really is in your best interest to replace the chain set, if not you will shortly down the road. upgrades you mentioned with stock cam you will more then likely only be putting 250 to 260 if even that to the ground. the cam, (the heart of the motor) would give you near 300HP with one of fords 303 series cams, and besides they are designed to work with OEM computer wiith minor upgrades wich you have listed allready. you will not regret it in the long run! i know its more money then you intended to spend but it is wise to not have to get back into the motor later and take the extra time and money to do it right the first time.

IndyBlk5.0 · Jan 10, 2004

im pretty sure 91 and on was the only time that the head bolts were torqued to yeild. look it up to be sure, but if they are not torqued to yield, they are fine to reuse unless you REALLY want to be safe about it, then by all means go for it

bgjohnson · Jan 10, 2004

I'd rather have new head bolts period no matter what, even the expensive ARP head bolts are recommended to be reused only 3 times, so your telling me that 12+ year old head bolts are a good idea to use, I'd tend not to think so. and as for a cam,I'm chosing the trickflow stage 1, and it only costs about 140, and is better than the Ford cams because it uses more uprgraded technology to separate the duration of the cam(intake,exhaust).

astronut1885 · Jan 10, 2004

I am ordering the ARP bolts and the FRPP timing chain and gear kit. As far as a cam, I think I am gonna hold off, since that really isn't a must with everything else I am doing. What I meant in this thread was to know whether or not I was missing anything in the top end of the motor while I have it open, such as bigger roller rockers, injectors, etc. A cam change is a seperate issue. Also, the valves on my P heads are aftermarket, and these were intended for use on a Mustang so it might have aftermarket springs (the heads are being shipped to me as we speak).

astronut1885 · Jan 15, 2004

The valves on the heads I am getting were replaced and bigger exhaust valves were installed. The heads were going to be installed in a race mustang, but the guy changed his mind. I talked to my mechanic today, and he said that my lifters would be fine, along the springs on the heads. He reccomended the F-303 cam with my setup, as he is running P heads on a carb'd 85 LX with this cam and has had no problems. He is making power close to 340RWHP, but his motor is new with only maybe 1,000 miles on it. Other than the cam it's self and the gaskets for the extra work, what else would I need to go with it? I am already doing a new timing chain along with my heads and intake swap. I am shooting for 300 RWHP, I assume the cam will put me up to that mark.

bgjohnson · Jan 15, 2004

maybe at the crank but probably not at the wheels

astronut1885 · Jan 15, 2004

A GT40 intake, P heads, a E303 cam, a cold air intake, 1.6 RR, Pro Chamber, Shorty headers, Flowmasters, advanced timing, U/D pullies, and a 65 mm TB won't put me to 300 RWHP? I tend to disagree.

mike93lx · Jan 15, 2004

honestly, i doubt 300 rwhp is realistic with those mods. granted, it will be a helluva lot stronger than stock, but not 300rwhp. i may be wrong, but i realized how much 300rwhp is when i ran may car, estimated it at around 315 at the wheels and took a look at the bill for my motor again.

Take a look at my setup, anything else I should do?

astronut1885

TIMMY2734

redterror302

astronut1885

bgjohnson

nito88stang

astronut1885

mustangmuscle87

New Member

NKau

astronut1885

astronut1885

nito88stang

wildstang347

New Member

IndyBlk5.0

New Member

bgjohnson

astronut1885

astronut1885

bgjohnson

astronut1885

mike93lx

Member

Similar threads

Take a look at my setup, anything else I should do?

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency