Taking block to machine shop, what to ask for?

str8stang036

New Member
Dec 28, 2002
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Miami
Im taking the 351w block to the machine shop this week and I wanted to hear from you guys about what I should ask them to do. I know for sure it needs to be cleaned, bored, and probably honed. What else should I ask for?
 
dont say bore and hone....................honeing just takes of alittle of the cyl wall to clean it up................but if you bore it you shave alot off so you dont need to hone it........................also have them check the deck..............they should have somekinda package where they go through all the stuff...........
 
definately balance it, you'll thank your self later, I didn't and I'm kicking myself still. For the money costs it's well worth it, have them magna flux the block see if there are any cracks that can't be seen, hot tank it to get the crud out of it, and have them install the cam bearings, you need a special tool to install them.
 
more than likely they'll hot tank it and magna flux it without you asking, but probably best to bring up the magna fluxing

and i've never heard of a machine shop/engine shop that didn't install cam bearings and freeze plugs, they'll probably do it without asking, but if you don't see them, ask or try it yourself.
 
Have them cook and magnaflux it. You need a special tool to install cam bearings. If you have access it's pretty easy. Just put them in the right way. haha Have them check the bore usally they use a dial bore gauge. This will tell them and you if it needs to be bored and how much. If it does need boring. Usally they bore it to about .005 under and then hone to fit new pistons. Depending what they find if it needs boring you will need to order pistons so they can final hone the cylinders and mic. the pistons to give you the proper clearance. Put a straight edge on the deck. To see if there's any warpage. If you plan to run boost or nitrous have them deck the block for sure. Some stroker kits out there will require the deck to cut. Not sure if your gonna stroke it but keep that in mind. You might want to wait for decking the block and final wash and bagging until you get the kit.
 
i am also going to be doing the same thing i the very near future, not to bust your thread but i have a couple questions too. What about the allign honing process for the crank....is it worth the $ to get it done?
 
You need the following...

Clean and Magnaflux, and inspect (this will make sure the block is free of cracks and there is nothing wrong)

The bores will need to be checked for taper, and wear. This will determine if they can hone it to "knock the glaze off" or bore it .030 and hone. It should be done to match the piston that is being used, so your PTW piston-to-wall clearance is correct.

I would let them install the new cam bearings and freeze plugs, cheaper then the tools to do it yourself and cam bearings can be a pain in the ass.

The block should be decked to "0" (this means the piston will come right to the top of the deck) and it should be squared, both decks will be squared to the block to take out any twist.

Align hone is worth it, usually they will check it to see if it needs to be done.

Rods if they are used they should be resized for new ARP bolts, and checked to make sure they are OK.

Pistons should also be checked if they are new..

What are you building? New parts or old internals?
 
they will most likely hottank it anyway, they don't want do dirty up their 30,000 dollar machines. the cam bearings and freeze plugs are done also without asking. they will try to sucker you into doing the whole thing. the shop i went to was like, you going to do the heads, why do you want to have a newly rebuilt engine and old heads. so we got them done with a 3 angle valve job and new guides and seals with a slight mill for 100 bucks for both. i got my 302 bored .060 which cost only 80 bucks. i got new speedpro coated pistons with i believe only cost about 102 bucks, maybe the reciept said 202. then 32 for them to press the rods on the pistons. in all it cost 405 bucks plus 60 bucks later for a crank turning. don't bore any more than you have too unless you plan on getting some better cooling devices.
 
its going to have brand new internals, crank, rods, pistons, everything. Not a stroker though. I am going to have nitrous first then boost.

thanks guys for informing me, i didnt want to get taken for a fool.

Also, can I buy my main bearings before having the crank? Do they need to be sized or something also? I am going for clevite 77 bearings all around.
 
The motor should be mocked up to check all the clearances as well then. Thrust, rod side clearance, straightness, journals,etc... Any good shop should be able to do that.

The bearing should be picked based on what the crank is made out of, what brand it is and what the use of the motor will be....you need to get the proper bearings to do it right.