Taking the Engine Out Where to go from here


Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
Acworth, GA
Well, I haven't made up my mind yet, but I decided I should do something with the engine while it is out. I'm going to pull my engine out to put the tubular K-member in soon. Since the engine is about to celebrate it's 10th birthday, I figured I should take it apart and tidy things up a bit. Now, the engine still runs really well, and there is good compression on all the cylinders. So, if the hone job still looks good, I'm not going to mess with the short block. If I try and refresh it, I'll more than likely just mess it up.

I do have some issues with the heads though. Ed Curtis did get a form email back to me in about a week, and I filled out the little cam information sheet he sent me. However, I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the heads. The machinest overported the intake for some reason, and the ports on the intake are wider than the ports on the heads by a little bit. I should probably have the heads port matched to the intake. I haven't decided if I want to go to a bigger intake valve either. Right now I have a 2.02" intake, and with the bigger ports it might not be a bad idea to step it up to a 2.05." However, I'm not sure I'll ever suck enough air with a 347 that can only rev up to 6500ish rpms. I also have some header bolt holes that have gotten boogered up, and I'll need to drill those out and put inserts in. Anyone have some input on what direction I should take it. Obviously, budget is an issue.

I'm also looking for a good cylinder head guy in North Georgia. I stopped by Proline Engines today and got a quote from them since they are right up the street. They were very much on the steep side. I might fly the heads back down to FL to get them done.

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If there is crosshatching leave the bottom end alone. :nice: totally agree. id pull a cap on a bearing while you have it apart too.

I dont think your going to see a whole ton of gains from 2.05's. If you have the cash just get the heads matched to the intake and be done with it.

Think this would be the cheapest and most efficient route to go.

Does your top end need the valves cut or anything??? if the heads do need work and valves wouldn't be much more id say to go for it.:shrug:

heli-coils on the header bolts isnt a huge deal i know the next time my heads come off i have a valve cover hole thats missing 1/2 the thread that i want to fix.

Is there any real reason you are tearing in to it??? or just for a check up?

That cam will be nice!

Guess i just responded because no one else did... lol
Yeah, good point. I should list what I already have.

Stock block 347, forged crank, SRP pistons -5cc dish. Currently a Trick Flow 3 cam, but that's going to change.
Canfield 192cc heads with a mild port. 2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust. Compression Ratio of about 10:1.
Holley Systemax 2 intake.
The primary reason I'm taking it apart is to change the camshaft. It's not much more work to yank the heads while you have it out.

I'm pretty much inline with what Adam is saying. I'll probably get the valve job done while it's apart, and at least change the valve stem seals. The valve guides will probably be fine. There probably is no advantage to going to a bigger intake valve, because I simply can not spin the engine fast enough to make use of it. The only problem I'm running into, is that the intake ports might get too big to match the intake manifold, and then the valve will cause a bottle neck. However, I'm probably better off finding someone who can do a really nice taper port on the heads and keep the 2.02" intake vavle.

Yeah, I have a current dyno sheet. I made 372rwhp/395rwtq with the current combo. I'm more concerned with the power curve. Although the peak numbers are good, and it looks pretty flat, the car has a tendancy to fall down at the end of the track.