Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread

CarMichael Angelo · Sep 23, 2016

Ooooohhh...

That's the part that screws into the block. Did you get the other part out? or is it still tight?

Can you just imagine the sht fit I'd be having if that happened to me?

That would leave me wondering about the torque wrench......or The fact that you could never get those to reach 80 lbs,..probably means that they were stretching.

Chinee?

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Ooooohhh...

That's the part that screws into the block. Did you get the other part out? or is it still tight?

Can you just imagine the sht fit I'd be having if that happened to me?

That would leave me wondering about the torque wrench......or The fact that you could never get those to reach 80 lbs,..probably means that they were stretching.

Chinee?

It should come right out as there's nothing putting force on them now. We will see in a couple hours. I've been using the same torque wrench forever, but I've got a new one in the box I bought about a month ago. Think I'll break it out just to eliminate that.
Who knows what ARP will say

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
It should come right out

It does not.

CarMichael Angelo · Sep 23, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
It does not.

Yeah,..I kinda figured that would happen,..I'd imagine that there is still some twisting that is occurring when you are torqueing that stud, making it tighter in the thread boss
If the same thing had happened to me, I'd be screwed,..as I had to thread seal at least 4 of them, and all of them were tightened into the bores w/ the allen wrench socket head that is in the top of the stud.

A5literMan · Sep 23, 2016

That's no fun

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Yeah,..I kinda figured that would happen,..I'd imagine that there is still some twisting that is occurring when you are torqueing that stud, making it tighter in the thread boss
If the same thing had happened to me, I'd be screwed,..as I had to thread seal at least 4 of them, and all of them were tightened into the bores w/ the allen wrench socket head that is in the top of the stud.

Would have hoped that would have relieved when the bolt broke. It's about 1.5" down in the block now. I was able to twist it out a bit but it locked up. The top of the stud is a little mangled and it was starting to dig into the bore. I'll grab an ez-out and try again in a few days. Almost makes me regret not going Chinese to begin with!

CarMichael Angelo · Sep 23, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
Would have hoped that would have relieved when the bolt broke. It's about 1.5" down in the block now. I was able to twist it out a bit but it locked up. The top of the stud is a little mangled and it was starting to dig into the bore. I'll grab an ez-out and try again in a few days. Almost makes me regret not going Chinese to begin with!

How will you be able to drill a 180,000 p.s.i hardened head stud to use an EZ out?

Davedacarpainter · Sep 23, 2016

madmike1157 said:
How will you be able to drill a 180,000 p.s.i hardened head stud to use an EZ out?

He'll use the "B*tch! Get Your Ass Out of There" attachment.

89oem · Sep 23, 2016

Don't worry Tanner, now that you're married getting even half head is a big deal, lol

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

madmike1157 said:
How will you be able to drill a 180,000 p.s.i hardened head stud to use an EZ out?

I've already drilled a small hole in it. With the right bit it isn't a big deal apparently (it should be though). Snapped a standard bit though. Now if I break off the EZ out, then you've got the whole creek no paddle situation

RaggedGT · Sep 23, 2016

Could you weld a nut on it?

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Could you weld a nut on it?

No sir, too far down in the block. I've got an exhaust bolt to do that with next though

jrichker · Sep 23, 2016

The click type torque wrenches need to be checked for accuracy every 6 months when used in a full time production environment. Once year for home use is the best plan; with a few simple items, it is easy to do.

You need 4 things to check the accuracy of a torque wrench.
1.) A vise to clamp the square drive end of the torque wrench so that it is stable and isn't moving all over the place.
2.) A suitable weight that is within 2% of the weight marked on it.
3.) A ruler or tape measure.
4.) A coat hanger or wire strong enough to hold the weight.

Mount the square drive of the torque wrench in the vise and tighten it down securely. Measure from the center point of the square drive to the line in the middle of the torque wrench handle or handle pivot. Multiply the measured distance by the known value of the weight.

Example:
14 inches x 50 lbs = 700 inch pounds.
Divide by 12 to get foot pounds: 700/12 = 58.33 foot lbs.

It works out best if you use multiple weights so that you can check for accuracy throughout the entire range of the torque wrench.

If the torque wrench has a setting dial, set it to the value you just calculated. Attach the wire or coat hanger that has the weight to the pivot point, or line on the handle. Listen for the click or beep, or watch for the flash or the indication on the dial. It should match the calculated value within 2%.

That’s the simple part. Unfortunately I have no idea how to adjust click type torque wrenches, so you are on your own from this point on.

All you have to do with the bending beam torque wrenches is make sure the pointer read zero when the are not in use. Other than that, they never go out of calibration. That's why the 2 main torque wrenches I have are the bending beam type.

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

jrichker said:
That's why the 2 main torque wrenches I have are the bending beam type.

I thought they were stupid til I used them in college. They're sweet

tannerc91gt · Sep 23, 2016

Well it's drillable. Got some left handed bits to try out when I get off work on the morning. I'm not optimistic though, it feels like its bound up pretty good. Open to suggestions short of tearing it down to the block and taking it somewhere.

JoeDaddy · Sep 24, 2016

Head studs must use a different torque sequence then the head bolts, huh? If I remember right on my Avalanche it was xx ft lbs, then turn 90 degrees, then turn 90degrees.

I had the rear most exhaust bolt on both heads brake, and broke the ez out trying to get it out... Had to take it to napa, who sent the heads to their closest machine shop. I think they used an EDM to fix..

tannerc91gt · Sep 24, 2016

JoeDaddy said:
Head studs must use a different torque sequence then the head bolts, huh? If I remember right on my Avalanche it was xx ft lbs, then turn 90 degrees, then turn 90degrees.

I had the rear most exhaust bolt on both heads brake, and broke the ez out trying to get it out... Had to take it to napa, who sent the heads to their closest machine shop. I think they used an EDM to fix..

The head bolts I've done have always been in degrees like you said. The studs are just a 3 step sequence. I was going to pretend like I know why but I just do what the little paper in the box tells me to do and you see where that gets me!

89oem · Sep 24, 2016

bigger diameter ez out for strength/torque??

Boosted92LX · Sep 24, 2016

tannerc91gt said:
The head bolts I've done have always been in degrees like you said. The studs are just a 3 step sequence. I was going to pretend like I know why but I just do what the little paper in the box tells me to do and you see where that gets me!

Hey man.. I've removed a lot of broken bolts. Can you get me some pics of the culprit? Maybe I could help.

tannerc91gt · Sep 24, 2016

Boosted92LX said:
Hey man.. I've removed a lot of broken bolts. Can you get me some pics of the culprit? Maybe I could help.

Absolutely. Itll be a couple days before I'm
Able to make another attempt but I've got a couple LH drill bits I'm going to try. I'll get a picture

Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread

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This last 25% is foreign territory at this point

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Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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Mustang Master

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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