I thought he was a dwarf planet. You know, the one that gave cinderella the apple?
Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread
- Thread starter tannerc91gt
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All the fuel leaks are fixed. Having fuel pressure issues though. No amount of cranking on the FRP adjuster seems make a difference, always about 35psi. Pump sounds weak as well. Some of this I attribute to the battery needing a boost, so it's going to sit on the charger all night.
I'm also currently running the power wire from the Holley directly to the pump so tomorrow I've got a couple relays to tie in.
Also considering throwing the regulator at a wall or something. Keeping my options open.
The battle continues
I'm also currently running the power wire from the Holley directly to the pump so tomorrow I've got a couple relays to tie in.
Also considering throwing the regulator at a wall or something. Keeping my options open.
The battle continues
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Enough idling, post a video of you reving it!
It does sound pretty badass though....
Good job man.
It does sound pretty badass though....
Good job man.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Initially all you could do was rev it, it wouldn't idle. Then it idled but wouldn't rev.Enough idling, post a video of you reving it!
It does sound pretty badass though....
Good job man.
Now it sorta does both.
Hopefully it'll get sorted out tomorrow.
Anything to put off pulling out the transmission
Expansion tank made a friend today.
Anyone familiar with laid down radiator/expansion tank type setups enough to tell me if im on the right track?
Steam port to the side of th expansion tank, bottom of the tank to the port on the radiator and then obviously the port under the cap of the tank goes to the overflow.
Anyone familiar with laid down radiator/expansion tank type setups enough to tell me if im on the right track?
Steam port to the side of th expansion tank, bottom of the tank to the port on the radiator and then obviously the port under the cap of the tank goes to the overflow.
Well adding in a couple relays for the pump has rendered the whole operation useless.
Can't get the pump to prime. Relays test fine.
Pump runs if you run 12v directly to the stud.
It's wired per the directions. Etc,etc.
The Holley is tripping me up somewhere and I haven't tracked it down yet.
Moved onto wiring the Taurus fan. The fan is grounded by the ECU and the powered side will eventually be run through a relay as well.
But to test it I hooked the ground up to the I/O harness and the power wire to the starter relay stud......it barely spun.
So I grabbed the smaller cheapo fan that came with my old radiator and wired it up the same. It spun but wasn't moving hardly any air. Just wasn't getting any juice it seemed.
Took it around back and hooked the leads directly to the battery and it took off like it should. So it appears I've got some kind of power supply issue.
Going to have to spend some time with a meter in a couple weeks.
Can't get the pump to prime. Relays test fine.
Pump runs if you run 12v directly to the stud.
It's wired per the directions. Etc,etc.
The Holley is tripping me up somewhere and I haven't tracked it down yet.
Moved onto wiring the Taurus fan. The fan is grounded by the ECU and the powered side will eventually be run through a relay as well.
But to test it I hooked the ground up to the I/O harness and the power wire to the starter relay stud......it barely spun.
So I grabbed the smaller cheapo fan that came with my old radiator and wired it up the same. It spun but wasn't moving hardly any air. Just wasn't getting any juice it seemed.
Took it around back and hooked the leads directly to the battery and it took off like it should. So it appears I've got some kind of power supply issue.
Going to have to spend some time with a meter in a couple weeks.
..... you are using the ecu output to fire the relay right. The relay should get 12v to one side of the coil then the ecu grounds the other side of the coil, this pulls the relay closed and the relay holds the load of the device.. (fan pump ect)
If you are wiring a relay to supply 12v and then the ground load of that device is being carried by the ecu you will burn the ecu up. The ecu should ground the relay only.
Sorry if I misunderstood what you said in the last post but if it is wired the way i think it is you will be replacing the I/O board.
If you are wiring a relay to supply 12v and then the ground load of that device is being carried by the ecu you will burn the ecu up. The ecu should ground the relay only.
Sorry if I misunderstood what you said in the last post but if it is wired the way i think it is you will be replacing the I/O board.
Here's how it is wired. Except the orange to the ignition switch is run to the green trigger wire on the ECU. The red goes to the 12v at the disconnect and the blue to the pump
itself.
The fan will only be grounded by the ECU
How are the relays grounded? The ecu should supply ground to the relay not 12v.. all I see in the picture are 12v hot leads.
Orange would be 12v to coil
Red 12v feed for relay contact
Blue 12v feed out to device.
But I could be wrong.
Orange would be 12v to coil
Red 12v feed for relay contact
Blue 12v feed out to device.
But I could be wrong.
The fan cannot be grounded by the ecu.
Ground fan to chassis. Feed fan 12v from relay. Ecu supplies ground to relay
Ground fan to chassis. Feed fan 12v from relay. Ecu supplies ground to relay
Annnddd....Once again, our hero is FOILED by the evil Dr Electro-glitch....
This way would make the most sense to me.
Edit:so both red and orange can go to the cutoff because the pump will be triggered by the ECU grounding the relays, correct?
ECU still sees key on and then the rpm required for the pump to kick on so it should still function all the same in that regard.
The fan thing makes sense also, I'll have to wire it up correctly instead of trying to test it out the half-ass way
Thanks as always @a91what
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