Progress Thread Tannerc91gt’s Build(s) Thread

[tannerc91gt]

I hit a roadblock of sorts today regarding my wiring.
I didn’t account for my ECU needing a transbrake signal when I wired it up to operate independent of everything else. Just activated by the shifter button. The ECU signal would be used for 2step activation, launch control and other things I can’t think of at the moment. I’ve got a wire I can run specifically for that purpose but without knowing if the transbrake wiring is isolated well enough (or at all), I’m at a stand still until I can call Leash. If it’s not, flyback voltage has been known to melt an ECU or two apparently

Got my c02 setup dropped off today as well. Bought a couple Mac valves to handle the boost control. Also bought another 30 feet of pushlock tubing and he threw in some fittings. I’m finding you can’t have too many of them.

It appears I’ll have to use up 2 PWM- outputs to run the solenoids, as well as a 5v input to read the dome pressure sensor. (I should have bought a dominator ECU, but that extra $1,000 was hard to come off of)
Once I figure out where to mount the dang solenoids I can start plumbing the c02 lines.

I’ve been told that the closer you can get the solenoids to the gates, the better the control is. Now to what degree it is “better”, I’ve not got a clue. Hopefully it’s substantial enough to make mounting them out in the bay somewhere worth it. You’ll have to excuse my zipties and tape for the moment. I’m a visual learner. Thinking I might build a bracket and maybe a little heat shield and stick them out here. They would be very close to the gates and easy to access.
Other than in a fender, I’ve not come up with many other ideas. Water exposure may be a concern too, though I don’t anticipate running into much rain.

 

[RaggedGT]

Awesome progress man. I can’t speak for there placement being wrong or right-but it sure looks good

 

[a91what]

Maybe I missed something..... what is the co2 for again? Why are you burning up 2 pwm outs?(can both of them be configured properly for the application).

 

[tannerc91gt]

Maybe I missed something..... what is the co2 for again? Why are you burning up 2 pwm outs?(can both of them be configured properly for the application).

C02 is applied to the gate in place of manifold pressure. A good amount of people run a regulated on-board air compressor, which I think is the better option. But going to use c02 for now.
One solenoid is to fill, one is to dump.
This is the only way I’ve seen c02/air setup and the way Holley recommends even with manifold pressure.

 

[Bullitt347]

I run two BOV in my application. Use a 2 1/2 lb CO2 bottle. Works great.

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[a91what]

Very cool. Way beyond necessary for a street car but I think you've gone far enough with this build to need it. I'm looking forward to see dyno sheet and tune file.

 

[tannerc91gt]

On this weeks episode of “I break everything I touch”. Managed to break off a chunk of AN fitting in my regulator. Took it apart to make sure I hadn’t busted the diaphragm. With it apart, I was able to see I was using the wrong fitting. Should have been obvious from the whole, breaking 2 fittings installing it part, but nevertheless. So I filed down the end of the AN fitting so it wouldn’t contact the body of the regulator. Hopefully it seals, we shall see. Should have thrown an extra fitting on my summit order...

Ordered a steam vent kit. The back ports are currently blocked off which has been proven to be detrimental to even cooling across the cylinder heads. Going to flip the center block and run a -4AN line out the back and around to my expansion tank.

That will let me finally solve the problem of that hideous rubber hose you can see hanging above the drivers side header.
Nevermind that it would have melted within the first mile and pissed coolant everywhere :/

Also bit the bullet and replaced the $110 return line that I managed to slash a chunk out of in the engine bay. That one hurt a little.

As it stands, I need to:

Replace return line
Replumb the steam vent setup
Swap pinion flange and reinstall driveshaft
Drop trans, open up flexplate holes
Fill trans/rear end fluids
Fix brake line leaks
Mount solenoids and wire dome pressure sensor

And it would be suitable for a spin around the block, technically. Wiring lights and windows can be a winter job.

Really just want to set it on the ground and drive it around for 5 minutes before the snow falls. Setting the bar pretty low for 2017.

 

[RaggedGT]

On this weeks episode of “I break everything I touch”. Managed to break off a chunk of AN fitting in my regulator. Took it apart to make sure I hadn’t busted the diaphragm. With it apart, I was able to see I was using the wrong fitting. Should have been obvious from the whole, breaking 2 fittings installing it part, but nevertheless. So I filed down the end of the AN fitting so it wouldn’t contact the body of the regulator. Hopefully it seals, we shall see. Should have thrown an extra fitting on my summit order...

Ordered a steam vent kit. The back ports are currently blocked off which has been proven to be detrimental to even cooling across the cylinder heads. Going to flip the center block and run a -4AN line out the back and around to my expansion tank.

That will let me finally solve the problem of that hideous rubber hose you can see hanging above the drivers side header.
Nevermind that it would have melted within the first mile and pissed coolant everywhere :/

Also bit the bullet and replaced the $110 return line that I managed to slash a chunk out of in the engine bay. That one hurt a little.

As it stands, I need to:

Replace return line
Replumb the steam vent setup
Swap pinion flange and reinstall driveshaft
Drop trans, open up flexplate holes
Fill trans/rear end fluids
Fix brake line leaks
Mount solenoids and wire dome pressure sensor

And it would be suitable for a spin around the block, technically. Wiring lights and windows can be a winter job.

Really just want to set it on the ground and drive it around for 5 minutes before the snow falls. Setting the bar pretty low for 2017.

I dunno man-taking it around the block-and launching once or twice off the trans brake seems like a pretty good achievement for 2017

 

[NIKwoaC]

Remind me what your goals for this car are? True street? It's pretty effin BA.

 

[Noobz347]

Very cool. Way beyond necessary for a street car but I think you've gone far enough with this build to need it. I'm looking forward to see dyno sheet and tune file.

It's the blinkers that give it away.


Nothing else about this build suggests to me: streetcar


@tannerc91gt

That solenoid looks awful damned close to a lot of HOT stuff.

 

[a91what]

It's the blinkers that give it away.


Nothing else about this build suggests to me: streetcar


@tannerc91gt

That solenoid looks awful damned close to a lot of HOT stuff.

 

[tannerc91gt]

Remind me what your goals for this car are? True street? It's pretty effin BA.

Run 8s and cruise to town for ice cream.
That’s honestly all it’s ever been. I think when the kinks are worked out, neither one of those will be difficult to achieve.


Warning: ——incoherent rambling ahead

I’ve made some choices along the way that have ruled me out of any class a combo like this could be competitive in. I somewhat regret that, though I’ve not got the time or money to chase a class around the Midwest anyways. Twin turbo excluded you from most smaller wallet classes, cutting the front end off is another strike against me though a lot of classes let that one slide.

Truth be told, what I’ve been hung up on lately is the lack of safety equipment in the car. It’s always been in the back of my mind but having a kid last month really moved it up the priority list. I’ve got no business trying to run 8s in a car with a glorified roll bar.
It needs this current “cage” cut out and an 8.50 put in its place.
It’s got rear drum brakes, SN95 fronts. Needs a parachute, all the typical stuff. You really can’t overdue safety equipment in my mind. Especially with a family dependent on you surviving to go to work on Monday.

With that said, I’m not sure I want that for this car.
I’m well known for my wandering eye and sure, that had a lot to do with it. But in a perfect world, the LS stuff would come out of this car along with the fuel cell, manual brakes and steering, etc. to be replaced with the HVAC equipment and an NA coyote motor. All the race car stuff can find a home in a well built race car.

That’s way more than the answer to your question, but shows where my head has been at the last few weeks.
That being said, this combo is staying right where it’s at until I’ve gotten a chance to drive and enjoy the project I’ve spent the last 16 months working on.

 

[tannerc91gt]

It's the blinkers that give it away.


Nothing else about this build suggests to me: streetcar


@tannerc91gt

That solenoid looks awful damned close to a lot of HOT stuff.

Don’t think it would be a problem properly shielded. That said, it likely won’t end up being its home. Going to pull the intake and stuff off Tuesday for the coolant system and I’ll have a chance to reroute some plumbing then.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Run 8s and cruise to town for ice cream.
That’s honestly all it’s ever been. I think when the kinks are worked out, neither one of those will be difficult to achieve.


Warning: ——incoherent rambling ahead

I’ve made some choices along the way that have ruled me out of any class a combo like this could be competitive in. I somewhat regret that, though I’ve not got the time or money to chase a class around the Midwest anyways. Twin turbo excluded you from most smaller wallet classes, cutting the front end off is another strike against me though a lot of classes let that one slide.

Truth be told, what I’ve been hung up on lately is the lack of safety equipment in the car. It’s always been in the back of my mind but having a kid last month really moved it up the priority list. I’ve got no business trying to run 8s in a car with a glorified roll bar.
It needs this current “cage” cut out and an 8.50 put in its place.
It’s got rear drum brakes, SN95 fronts. Needs a parachute, all the typical stuff. You really can’t overdue safety equipment in my mind. Especially with a family dependent on you surviving to go to work on Monday.

With that said, I’m not sure I want that for this car.
I’m well known for my wandering eye and sure, that had a lot to do with it. But in a perfect world, the LS stuff would come out of this car along with the fuel cell, manual brakes and steering, etc. to be replaced with the HVAC equipment and an NA coyote motor. All the race car stuff can find a home in a well built race car.

That’s way more than the answer to your question, but shows where my head has been at the last few weeks.
That being said, this combo is staying right where it’s at until I’ve gotten a chance to drive and enjoy the project I’ve spent the last 16 months working on.

Huh,....didn't know that you've built yourself out of a class....I always assumed that that was exactly what you were building.

But.....now that I know otherwise....

While It's true that there cannot be too much safety built in when talking about a car that can cover an 1/4 mile in 8 seconds.. A lot of those safety measures will make the "cruise to town for ice cream" part less and less likely.

( Once you're strapped in with a 5 point harness, you can forget about looking over your shoulder to see if it's safe to pullout into traffic....Unless a 7.50 cert cage rule has changed since I built mine,..a FC cage addition was required...Again you are not gonna be aware of anything around you....and lastly...Ice cream for who?....You?
By yourself? Who else is gonna wanna ride in a car anywhere on the street that is spewing un-muffled exhaust noise/fumes directly in front of each passenger?)

I'm sorry that my comments seem harsh....and maybe your plan to cruise to town for ice cream is less likely to happen in reality to you than what comes across here. I guess that you just floored me a little with your comments.

As expensive as these cars are to build, and as nice as the one is that you are building is,..it's almost tragic that you have built the car as a stepchild that cannot compete anywhere because it don't fit the rules or will get shut out by the big money.

I did that with the Blue/Black Conquest....I took an easy to drive street car with AC, a 347/ TR 3650.decided I wanted to be a big boy racer, and installed an R blocked twin turbo'd 363/glide/4 linked 8.8, and put a chrome moly round tube back half from the firewall back, with a FC cage.

Then could not fit the then drag radial class rules because the car didn't have a "stock rear suspension", and in exactly the same scenario, the class that it would fit in was so financially above me ( I had 363, class permitted 600+") I had no choice but to start over.

That's when/why I built the orange/black 86 to fit...and the Conquest got sold off as a bracket race car, for a fraction of what was invested just the year before.

 

[a91what]

This is why I build streetcar. Way to expensive to build a racecar and run with the big money.... i know guys who have 2 Mortgages to afford there racing habit.

 

[General karthief]

I just build junk
And a drug habbit

 

[tannerc91gt]

Huh,....didn't know that you've built yourself out of a class....I always assumed that that was exactly what you were building.

But.....now that I know otherwise....

While It's true that there cannot be too much safety built in when talking about a car that can cover an 1/4 mile in 8 seconds.. A lot of those safety measures will make the "cruise to town for ice cream" part less and less likely.

( Once you're strapped in with a 5 point harness, you can forget about looking over your shoulder to see if it's safe to pullout into traffic....Unless a 7.50 cert cage rule has changed since I built mine,..a FC cage addition was required...Again you are not gonna be aware of anything around you....and lastly...Ice cream for who?....You?
By yourself? Who else is gonna wanna ride in a car anywhere on the street that is spewing un-muffled exhaust noise/fumes directly in front of each passenger?)

I'm sorry that my comments seem harsh....and maybe your plan to cruise to town for ice cream is less likely to happen in reality to you than what comes across here. I guess that you just floored me a little with your comments.

As expensive as these cars are to build, and as nice as the one is that you are building is,..it's almost tragic that you have built the car as a stepchild that cannot compete anywhere because it don't fit the rules or will get shut out by the big money.

I did that with the Blue/Black Conquest....I took an easy to drive street car with AC, a 347/ TR 3650.decided I wanted to be a big boy racer, and installed an R blocked twin turbo'd 363/glide/4 linked 8.8, and put a chrome moly round tube back half from the firewall back, with a FC cage.

Then could not fit the then drag radial class rules because the car didn't have a "stock rear suspension", and in exactly the same scenario, the class that it would fit in was so financially above me ( I had 363, class permitted 600+") I had no choice but to start over.

That's when/why I built the orange/black 86 to fit...and the Conquest got sold off as a bracket race car, for a fraction of what was invested just the year before.

I aways respect your input, Mike. “Harshness” not a problem.

A funny car cage won’t be required for an 8.50 cert. In fact, the addition of funny car bars excludes you from some of the “street” car classes these days. A good ol 10 point is all I’ll ever need. No way in hell I’d drive around with that many extra bars to bang my skull off of.
I guess I could clarify that there are event classes at both LS Fest and Street Car Takeover that I will fit into. Whether I’m competitive is TBD. Those are the only events I’d ever care to attend consistently. Chasing around a points class or anything like that is not up my alley.

It truly will be street driven around town and to cruise ins and meets more than it will be at a track. That’s just where I’ll have the most opportunity to use it. As for how enjoyable that would be for driver or passenger, I guess that’s up to the individual.
I don’t get caught up in defending myself on the street car/ race car debate. Some would see this as a full blown race car. I would venture that most guys with full blown race cars would disagree. Neither opinion matters to me. It will be changed and molded as needed to be what I want it to be as I find what that is.

A lot of people will tell you that no AC, no PS/ABS, uncomfortable seat, can’t drive it 500 miles, etc would constitute a race car. But I owned a Honda Accord that couldn’t do any of that either!

 

[tannerc91gt]

Finished wiring up the starter, popped some fuses in on the Leash board and tested it out. Everything seems to be functioning as it should.
Couldn’t stand the cockeyed regulator on the rail so I ordered the correct fitting to straighten it up. Luckily that means my makeshift straight cut fitting was short lived.
Replaced the damaged return line as well and was able route it the way I wished I had done the first time so there was a silver lining to my $100 whoopsie.

Working on a new start up tune tonight since I’ve changed a lot on the car, including the switch to ethanol. If the fitting shows up tomorrow, I will get to fire up the car for the first time (again).
If not, it will definitely happen on Thursday.

Getting to hear the engine run has always proven to be the best motivation for me.

My Amish gas station worked great also. Little heavy on the manual labor for my liking but the harbor freight pump even threaded into my barrel. Pay no attention to the entire foxbody interior stacked up on my couch and half the front end laying on the floor.

 

[General karthief]

I see you have a supply of jack stands, nice!

 

[tannerc91gt]

I see you have a supply of jack stands, nice!

They all see pretty regular use lol