That is right in line with local reputable shops in my area, there are guys that do them cheaper but they don't have the "prestige" behind them that the big names do.
That is right in line with local reputable shops in my area, there are guys that do them cheaper but they don't have the "prestige" behind them that the big names do.They were pretty upfront with that part lol
Can't take it on until April and I told them I wasn't in a hurry to have it done. Probably my first mistake. $3,400 for a chromoly 8.50 cert doesn't seem too astronomical considering their work history. But I've got no other quotes to base that on?
Anything I need to make sure that includes? I imagine a window net provision is probably extra. If it'll need to be tied into through the floor subframe connectors, if the halo will have/need diagonals. obviously they'll know what it need to pass but if I haul it out there I don't want to miss anything.That is right in line with local reputable shops in my area, there are guys that do them cheaper but they don't have the "prestige" behind them that the big names do.
As I read this...I started thinking about you just going with a 10 bar. Are you planning on needing more?? I'm all for max effort builds but seems like a lot of money if you're not going to reach that performance level. My buddy just used a competition engineering 10 pt kit he installed himself. It was more than enough for 9.40's(but it is a full frame car).Anything I need to make sure that includes? I imagine a window net provision is probably extra. If it'll need to be tied into through the floor subframe connectors, if the halo will have/need diagonals. obviously they'll know what it need to pass but if I haul it out there I don't want to miss anything.
A bare bones 10 point isn't really that many bars.
What I got quoted on is a 10ptAs I read this...I started thinking about you just going with a 10 bar. Are you planning on needing more?? I'm all for max effort builds but seems like a lot of money if you're not going to reach that performance level. My buddy just used a competition engineering 10 pt kit he installed himself. It was more than enough for 9.40's(but it is a full frame car).
I've got a friend who's an excellent TIG welder. I may have to consider this route. Wedding is this year so the playing in the garage fund is under surveillanceI ran a S & W 10 point cage for my Vert. Fit really well when all said and done. Fitted and notched the pipes myself...ductaped the ends together... Had a great welder weld it up for 300 bucks.
Lol. That was another thought I hadOr maybe I'll sell it
Or maybe I'll sell it
I'd have THE slowest promod on the planet lolLol. That was another thought I had
I thought you were talking about a "promod" cage
If anything I've thought about selling the corvette for project car money. But I think that's because it's 20* outside and I haven't driven it in 2 monthsThat sounds very uncharacteristic of you. Though I only know of you from your posts. So I could be wrong.. Lol
Boo.If anything I've thought about selling the corvette for project car money. But I think that's because it's 20* outside and I haven't driven it in 2 months
I would expect that with the quote you got there would be gussets at the very least (not required by NHRA but nice to have) and a window net. Ideally you would want to tie the cage to thru floor frame connectors and that will require a rocker bar on the drivers side since the factory floor is modified, it's worth checking to see exactly what they have planned. If they want to hit you for extras on these things then you will likely want to look else whereAnything I need to make sure that includes? I imagine a window net provision is probably extra. If it'll need to be tied into through the floor subframe connectors, if the halo will have/need diagonals. obviously they'll know what it need to pass but if I haul it out there I don't want to miss anything.
A bare bones 10 point isn't really that many bars.
My 98 had a steel 6pt with swingouts. And it was junkDid your last couple of cars have cages?
It's mostly the fitment of the main hoop, and the halo. Generic kits are very conservative with the outside dimensions, and so consequently don't fit very tight when that is the desired outcome. The front bars are always a point of contention, ( whether you want them through the dash, or in front of it) all stuff a chassis shop w/a tubing bender could rectify by offering custom bends.Riddle me this (I may not remember what I think I do):
Are there not kits out there that are pieced to be custom installed by a shop? Wouldn't this be an option for a DIY fabricator?
I've no idea if any are Moly specifically. I've never put one in. I think I'll have my hands full trying to just 'install' a kit. hehe I'm thinking black powder coat.
Anyway.... What would a shop that was making one from scratch do differently? Do they mandrel bend all the tubes versus sectioning perhaps?
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