Temperature guages, there's too many!!

[CManT1914]

Okay I'm tired of not knowing how hot/cold my engine actually is. So I was looking at Autometer's website at temperature guages. But I'm seeing intake temperature, head temperature, water temperature, oil temperature, and regular temperature guages. I guess a regular temp gauge would be best? Also, what other guage besides temperature is the most important? I figured either fuel or oil pressure. Any recommendations?

 

[juiced_94gt]

electric fuel press is a must have with mods and the oil pressure isnt a bad idea considering the stock ford piece is junk...get a mechanical water temp gauge.

 

[HISSIN50]

I like the water temp and oil pressure gauge idea. you can plumb each to retain the stockers as well (i hate dead gauges).

i dont like elec gauges because of their limited sweep (Note AM makes some full sweep electric guages - best of both worlds). Since oil is in the pillar on mine, i have elec OP and mech temp.

good luck with the decision Chris.

 

[CManT1914]

I like the water temp and oil pressure gauge idea. you can plumb each to retain the stockers as well (i hate dead gauges).

i dont like elec gauges because of their limited sweep (Note AM makes some full sweep electric guages - best of both worlds). Since oil is in the pillar on mine, i have elec OP and mech temp.

good luck with the decision Chris.

Isn't it true that with like a mechanical OP guage, you have to route an oil line to the gauge, in other words, into the car? I don't really like the idea of that, lol. That's why I was thinking about electric guages, I know they don't have full sweep, but that's not so important as not having to run oil and water lines into the cabin.

 

[NO_RICE]

The only problem with the full sweep electrical gauges is they are very expensive, like over $100 each. I got my regular elec oil press, elec water temp, and full sweep mechanical boost gauge for about $45 each and those are AM ultra lite series

 

[HISSIN50]

Isn't it true that with like a mechanical OP guage, you have to route an oil line to the gauge, in other words, into the car? I don't really like the idea of that, lol. That's why I was thinking about electric guages, I know they don't have full sweep, but that's not so important as not having to run oil and water lines into the cabin.

Yep, with mechanical OP, you do have to route a line to the gauge. the basic choices are nylon, copper or braided line. i have run mech gauges before with nylon, but it depends where the guage is going (i would not run nylon to a pillar personally - that is setting one up for a large mess if the line fails). but many people have done this with no issues. You have the right idea with not liking that idea though, IMHO.

with mechanical temp gauges, there are no real leak issues. The capillary tube is filled with ether. i have a mech water temp gauge in my pillar.

Good luck.

 

[slo65]

i run my mech op gauge right underneath the dummy lights (its a gt) by my right leg, i use a copper line, i'd say the car sees 5k a day and no problems so far, its been on there for about 4 months now, i'm thinking about getting a t fitting though, like hissin i hate having my stock op gauge dead now

 

[HISSIN50]

Slo, watch the copper. in addition to chattering, the lines sometimes crack. this is not good.

on cars that i have used nylon lines for, they were mounted like yours is (below the dash). i figure less collateral damage if a line goes.

there is no correct answer, as people have had good and bad luck with similar set ups - just luck of the draw. braided line is the safest (and most $$).

good luck.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

If this helps.....
Here's the one you want:

Now, it does NOT have to be that style(color) but this is the one.

FWIW, you can see on my stocker in the background what 180* is equivalent to.

RC

 

[stprorolla49]

im gonna have to disagree with some of these guys, and im gonna have to say go with electric gauges in the pillar.....they are sooo much easier to wire up, and the full sweep really doesnt matter....i got my autometer sport comp electric water temp, and electric oil pressure gauges for like 45 bucks each, and they work great....the oil press sender is a PITA tho you will need a 45 degree fitting for that.....if you need any help hit me up.....

 

[HISSIN50]

im gonna have to disagree with some of these guys, and im gonna have to say go with electric gauges in the pillar.....they are sooo much easier to wire up, and the full sweep really doesnt matter....i got my autometer sport comp electric water temp, and electric oil pressure gauges for like 45 bucks each, and they work great....the oil press sender is a PITA tho you will need a 45 degree fitting for that.....if you need any help hit me up.....

I dont disagree with you at all on that (using elec in the pillar. Though i did choose to use a mech temp gauge because on some elec gauges, the needle's width is worth about 20*. not cool!).

 

[CManT1914]

Cool, thanks everyone. Looks like I will be going with electric guages due to ease of installation, and no dangers in running them. ANYTHING is gonna be a lot more accurate than my crap stockers anyway. When running electrics though, do my stockers become non-functional? I have my OP guage covered with a pic of the g/f anyway, so I don't really care, just wondering. Looks like I'll be getting some things for the stang soon, I raked in a lot of money from the grad party! lol

 

[HISSIN50]

congrats on graduating.

you can retain the function of stock OP and temp gauges with a tee on the OP (and a 90* bend, for my install) and getting a 10 dollar waterneck from the parts store for the stock temp guage sender.

Andy has posted some nice pics of how he did his OP gauge brass.

good luck and wise choices.

 

[94GTLaserRC]

When running electrics though, do my stockers become non-functional?

Ok...FIRST of all...it's GAUGE !!
Second...If you have a stock intake, you need a new water neck with a bolt hole on top to use BOTH gauges. ($10 at Discount Auto)


RC

 

[final5-0]

The benefit of full sweep is that you can get an idea about or a general idea of the value with a quick glance or just by using your peripheal vision.

When things are happening very quickly as they do during wot conditions, this is where the full sweep gauge is really appreciated.

Later
Grady

 

[CManT1914]

congrats on graduating.

Thanks man, glad to be done with it.

Ok...FIRST of all...it's GAUGE !!
Second...If you have a stock intake, you need a new water neck with a bolt hole on top to use BOTH gauges. ($10 at Discount Auto)


RC

My bad man, it WAS 2 am when I posted, lol. I can get that waterpump for my cobra intake right?

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Thanks man, glad to be done with it.



My bad man, it WAS 2 am when I posted, lol. I can get that waterpump for my cobra intake right?

Not that it's YOUR bad, it's just that everyone is always misspelling it.

It's not a waterpump...it's the water neck, or t-stat housing, whatever you want to call it. They have a steel one at DAP for about $10 that comes with the gasket. You can throw in a 180 T-stat while youre at it.

RC

 

[Grn92LX]

I have a bunch of autometers in my car. I have a mechanical FP gauge in the cowl, electric oil pressure and coolant temp in the a/c vent and a vacuum gauge on the pillar. Im looking for a wideband o2 sensor kit. I think i'm going to buy the AEM kit and use this gauge bezel kit. Then move my vacuum gauge there and buy one more gauge to fill up the bezel.

 

[CManT1914]

It's not a waterpump...it's the water neck, or t-stat housing, whatever you want to call it. They have a steel one at DAP for about $10 that comes with the gasket. You can throw in a 180 T-stat while youre at it.

RC

I knew that too. I don't know why I said water pump, lol. I have a 180 t-stat sitting at my work. I had it in for a while, but switched back to my 192 when it appeared my engine was running too cold. It would never get to the "N" on my stock gauge. But that was during the winter, I think I'll throw the 180 back in sometime before it gets real hot here.

 

[slo65]

Slo, watch the copper. in addition to chattering, the lines sometimes crack. this is not good.

on cars that i have used nylon lines for, they were mounted like yours is (below the dash). i figure less collateral damage if a line goes.

there is no correct answer, as people have had good and bad luck with similar set ups - just luck of the draw. braided line is the safest (and most $$).

good luck.

yea is that what i'm hearing? it sounds like a bunch of bb's in there, quite annoying it just started when i put in the copper, i'll keep my eye on it, less collateral damage ? but my boys are down there