The Cobra II Lives!

[Blue Thunder]

Or you can hit up Flaming River for a replacement shaft with a metal U-joint instead of the rag-joint.

 

[Wart]

Or you can hit up Flaming River for a replacement shaft with a metal U-joint instead of the rag-joint.

That's what I was thinking BUT....

Didn't we petition him to keep the car stock??

Damn, I have to find those keys .....

 

[DarkFireGT]

It is designed so that the bolt cannot come all the way out while the intermediate shaft is mated to the column shaft (to retain steering control in the event of the nut backing off). The bolt has a notch in it that straddles a flat spot on the steering column shaft, so it cannot come out without damaging something. It will allow the intermediate shaft to be seperated when the nut is removed as you have already done, though it will most likely need some penetrant to ease the process. The bottom half of the rag joint is secured to the steering rack with a single pinchbolt.

The ragjoint pins are designed to allow some control of the car ,albiet sloppy, in the event of isolater failure. I believe you will have to drill the retaining rivets to seperate the joint, after removing the intermediate shaft from the car.

Like Mark, I nave never had to replace one yet, all mine came with the rubber joint.

That's some great info... I've got the bolt out about 1/3 the way, maybe a bit more, the top of it is about 1/8" below the top of the shaft, but it still won't budge, at all. The bolt goes in and out effortlessly, but does not turn or come out any farther. Does the intermediate shaft pull away from the firewall, or how does it detach?

After this, I have another problem. There is a tube that comes off the radiator, an overflow tube I'm assuming. Well, the radiator is not overfilled, but after running for about 5 minutes, coolant starts coming out of this tube, and very big bubbly noises are coming from the radiator. I'm assuming this means it's starting to overheat. Is this a sign of bad coolant, or something larger?

 

[THE COBRAMAN]

The int shaft will pull off of the steering shaft from the column, but will probably need some penetrant to loosen up 28 years of grime/dirt/corrosion to allow it to be removed.

Sounds like you may have a stuck thermostat. Wouldn't surprise me after all that time. Just one of the many little "surprises" that you're going to find. Kinda like the alt belt that was fine around town, but came apart at highway speed on the long-term wreck I bought a few years back.

 

[Wart]

Shouldn't the car have a coolant overflow bottle?

May be nothing more than a weak radiator cap.

 

[Wart]

The int shaft will pull off of the steering shaft from the column, but will probably need some penetrant to loosen up 28 years of grime/dirt/corrosion to allow it to be removed.

I use(d) stuff called Mouse Milk, great pennetrant. No matter which pennetrant you use don't count on it working in a minute.

 

[DarkFireGT]

Shouldn't the car have a coolant overflow bottle?

May be nothing more than a weak radiator cap.

The first time I ran it, coolant came spurting out the cap. I bought a new cap from autozone and now it comes out this overflow tube. Is there supposed to be a bottle?

 

[LXXVICOBRA]

The first time I ran it, coolant came spurting out the cap. I bought a new cap from autozone and now it comes out this overflow tube. Is there supposed to be a bottle?

Yes. Being a closed system, the overflow tube should extend into the coolant within the bottle to keep air out and siphon coolant back in if necessary. For as long as this car has been sitting, a complete flush of the system is certainly in order. Along with that, replacement of the thermostat, cap, hoses, and possibly water pump, including fan belt. It's pretty cheap preventative maintenance that will help ensure the car runs at proper operating temp, and you don't have to keep cleaning coolant that is boiling out due to blockages, air pockets, or malfunctioning parts.