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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech

The switch assy for the headlights, and Hazards - how do I pull those?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 140cilx
  • Start date Start date Feb 5, 2004
1

140cilx

Founding Member
Sep 7, 2001
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Feb 5, 2004
#1
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #1
Been so long since I had those out I can't remember...

What I've got going is I'm yanking those to put in GT switches giving me an extra button on both sides.

The fog lights (left side) will be the on/off Master switch for the nitrous. No prob. Light up when on, stock sleeperish.

Question though: On the right side, that bottom button is a defroster switch (my lx does not have defrost) so it's a new button for me. I want to use it for turning my electric fan off/on for my IC, but that button is typical defrost button weird. It goes down, springs back up, how's that button work? Anybody know or I got to get out my voltmeter box thing?

Does it still have power flowing through it when it pops up? Is it click down once to turn on, click down again to turn off? That'd be perfect if so.

Oh yeah, anyone know any cool way to lift the white paint off the switch light lenses w/o clouding the lens? I'd like to remove those symbols and replace them with an "N" and a little thermometer graphic or something.

Thanks you genius'!

-140
 

Dr_EluSivE

Founding Member
Apr 24, 2002
2,155
0
56
Central Illinois
Feb 5, 2004
#2
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #2
Those pull out from the back, little plastic spring clips. The wiring for both extra switchs should be behind them. You will most likely need to remove the Dash surround to get to them. As for the Defroster, my car has a def (even though it doesnt work) and i too have thought about hooking a fan to that circuit. the Defrost is on a timer, you click it on and the light comes on. then after a set time it kicks off. the only thing i dont know is if the switch has the timer built in, or if the timer is a separate relay box. I thought the timer would be nice becuase it would run just long enough to cool it down and kick the fan off again. But im not sure of the wiring for that switch. As for the white pieces.. i think your best bet is to get some black thin plastic and overlay the old squares. they wouldnt glow then but You could atleast have a label. Im not sure how the facings come off and whether you could "erase" them or not. If you happen across another fog switch though let me know. I have been looking for one for some time now. Alot of the ones i find are melted or broken.

Dr.
 

Red_LX

I’m not much help unless you’re looking for ****!
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
5,896
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129
Morgantown, WV...where couches meet their doom
Feb 5, 2004
#3
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #3
You can pull those switch panels without taking off the whole cluster cover. You have to get a thin flathead screwdriver, you can stick it down around the edge of the switch to push in the clips and work the switch out. It takes a couple minutes but it's a lot easier than pulling the whole cluster cover.
 

Stinger

Founding Member
Jul 7, 2001
7,754
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118
Basehor (Kansas City), KS
Feb 5, 2004
#4
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #4
My defrost button is on when I push it once, off when I push it again (though it does spring back). I think the reason it springs back is because the defrost has an auto-off feature that shuts it off after 5-10 minutes (or when it reaches a certain heat possibly).

Stinger
 

Asha'man

Founding Member
Feb 5, 2002
1,909
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0
Denver
Feb 5, 2004
#5
  • Feb 5, 2004
  • #5
Stinger said:
My defrost button is on when I push it once, off when I push it again (though it does spring back). I think the reason it springs back is because the defrost has an auto-off feature that shuts it off after 5-10 minutes (or when it reaches a certain heat possibly).

Stinger
Click to expand...

Exactly. Everything else is either on or off, your choice.

Ash
 
1

140cilx

Founding Member
Sep 7, 2001
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Feb 6, 2004
#6
  • Feb 6, 2004
  • #6
Thank you!
 

mr_woodster

Active Member
Jul 28, 2003
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Riverside, CA
Feb 6, 2004
#7
  • Feb 6, 2004
  • #7
TIP: Your blinkers are wired into your hazard switch, if its disconnected, no blinkers. Obviously there are some interesting wire mating going on into the back of the switch, the blinkers in some way run to the back of the hazard switch first (this is my theory) and the switch completes the connection so your blinkers will work...once the hazard switch is applied (it having its own source of power) it clicks both blinkers (which are already routed throught it) on at the same time. This is a giant mess of wires, not really fun to play with, a good few hours and a volt meter , im sure you can bypass most of it though. When i get my pics of my interior, youll see why i figured this out....and how i took the lazy way out (for now) ;o)
 
1

140cilx

Founding Member
Sep 7, 2001
2,385
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Feb 7, 2004
#8
  • Feb 7, 2004
  • #8
I won't mess w/ the Hazard's wiring Wood, but that's an interesting tidbit.
 

Bearded Forever

Type O Danzigative the Dark
Founding Member
Sep 4, 2000
4,927
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Vinland
Nov 19, 2004
#9
  • Nov 19, 2004
  • #9
N00b!
 
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