Progress Thread Therapy Car-- Freshening Up the Lower Intake

Most of you guys probably know this stuff already, but I thought that I would share a few things I've learned while installing the torque box reinforcements. Maybe this will be helpful if someone stumbles across it in the future. Again, I have yet to see a good video that documents this process, and the kit comes with no instructions. So, installing the hardware for the lower torque box is pretty straight forward and there actually are decent videos out there that document that process well. I won't spend any time on that subject. The uppers is where you are left on your own to figure it out. If you work on stuff all the time or are just inclined to this kind of stuff it really isn't that big a deal.

The hardest part is just figuring out how to drill the holes and understanding what you are drilling through. What I found is that the inboard bolt hole can be drilled from under the car fairly easily. You have to remove the upper control arm to get where you need to drill. The outboard hole is a little trickier. In my case even though the drill bit was long it was still way to short to get to where it needed to be without the chuck hitting something and throwing it off. What I ended up doing was using the one bolt to bolt the plate in and then drilling from inside the car.
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This is where understanding what you are drilling through helps a little. From under the car you can look up and in the upper torque box there are already two holes that basically line up with the holes in the bracket. That's great as it makes the process a lot easier. If you get a light and look up into the hole you'll see that there is another piece of metal in there that also has a hole in it. I did not realize this until I was basically done last night. The holes in this inner plate also line up with where the bolts pass. This is at least true with the passenger side of the car. I didn't look at the drivers side.

I got lucky with the inboard hole on both sides and didn't make a mess of things. The outboard hole ended up over sized, but that's OK, for me at least. Its under the plate, nobody is going to see it. You can see the inner plate in these two pictures.

Inboard:
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The drill bit did not drill that inner hole and that is not the bottom of the torque box.
Outboard:

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As seen in the first picture I traced the plate with a marker so I could grind the area in preparation for welding.

In the pic looking into the outboard hole you can see where I was trying to drill a hole in the wrong place. That's when I decided to take a look and see what was being so stubborn. I then saw that preexisting hole and decided to open up the outer hole so that I could drill straight into it. Once I did that the bolt dropped in and lined up pretty good. I don't think you can do this job without finessing a few places. Here is a pic of the plate and bolts in place.

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As for the other two holes they just get drilled through from under the car. I didn't have any trouble with this on the other plate. Now there is a hump in the floor-pan right where the bottom of the plate is. I will probably trim about an inch off the plate just to get it to clear better. I also decided to add a couple of extra bolts on the top of the plate. They drill straight through from inside the car.

This job is not really that big a deal. It's just been way more of a PITA than I anticipated. Couple that with a lack of good instruction and it can be frustrating.

Here is a pic of the reinforcement that goes into the lower torque box. I pulled both sides back off so that I could paint them.

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Ill get this back in tonight and this job will be mostly done. I still have to weld everything up. The best part is that I will at least be able to get the car off the lift.
 
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In another thread someone was asking about using roofing material from Lowes as sound deadening material in place of Dynamat. I did this. I would not recommend it. If you never plan on getting to the floor pan again then go for it. If you think that you will ever need to get to bare metal again then dont do it. I used this material to patch over where I had some known holes in the pan. I didn't this as a stop gape to keep water out of the car and the carpet dry. I knew that I was going to come back in the near future and fix it. That is what I am doing now. The factory material comes out easy with a torch and a scrapper. This stuff can not be removed cold and turns into a sticky mess when you warm it up. Getting it out is very time consuming and I dont even have that much material to remove.

This has been my experience. Take it for what it is worth.

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In another thread someone was asking about using roofing material from Lowes as sound deadening material in place of Dynamat. I did this. I would not recommend it. If you never plan on getting to the floor pan again then go for it. If you think that you will ever need to get to bare metal again then dont do it. I used this material to patch over where I had some known holes in the pan. I didn't this as a stop gape to keep water out of the car and the carpet dry. I knew that I was going to come back in the near future and fix it. That is what I am doing now. The factory material comes out easy with a torch and a scrapper. This stuff can not be removed cold and turns into a sticky mess when you warm it up. Getting it out is very time consuming and I dont even have that much material to remove.

This has been my experience. Take it for what it is worth.

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Good to know. Im still deciding what to use. A lot of different options on amazon.
 
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I realize this is pretty minor compared to some of the rust issues I'm watching guys deal with but this is my one little rust issue and I'd like some input on how to fix it properly.

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Plan is to clean up the rust and either weld up the holes or weld in a patch. That is the reinforcement for where the seat bolts to the floor. It looks like the rust goes under it. Do you guys think I need to use a spot weld cutter and remove that plate in order to fix it properly or can it be treated with something to stop the rust? I have a few more spots like this but this is the only one that might need something removed in order to repair properly.

all of the areas I just dealt with on my floors were much worse on the interior side. And once I started cleaning back the bad metal, the areas got much bigger.

I had good luck with the $5 spot weld cutter from Harbor Freight. Just go slow and keep it lubricated. I would cut out the bad, weld a good patch in and then reweld the bracket. (speaking from very little, but recent experience)
 
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In another thread someone was asking about using roofing material from Lowes as sound deadening material in place of Dynamat. I did this. I would not recommend it. If you never plan on getting to the floor pan again then go for it. If you think that you will ever need to get to bare metal again then dont do it. I used this material to patch over where I had some known holes in the pan. I didn't this as a stop gape to keep water out of the car and the carpet dry. I knew that I was going to come back in the near future and fix it. That is what I am doing now. The factory material comes out easy with a torch and a scrapper. This stuff can not be removed cold and turns into a sticky mess when you warm it up. Getting it out is very time consuming and I dont even have that much material to remove.

This has been my experience. Take it for what it is worth.

20200104_210135.jpg
Dynamat or any of the other sound deadener materials available wouldn’t be any different. It would still be a mess. The other thing to remember is that the old factory stuff has had decades to get hard and brittle.
 
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For anybody that wants sound deadening, and especially heat restriction. This stuff I got from Amazon for I think $40 . Does the whole car with enough to double it up under seats. Really good stuff for the money. Sticks good and is pretty thick. Has other uses too. I used it for my space for my new steering wheel. I promise you will like it. Reviews on Amazon.
 

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Nothing to do with the car but I picked this up over the weekend.

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I've had my eye on market place for a while looking for a deal. This one came up at half the price of what other people were asking for one so I got it. While it wont fix a car it does give me a good tool for other things that I'm working on to generate money for car stuff!

I did get the tar stuff off of the floor pan of the car finally. Thats all I've had time to do.
 
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Finally got the car back on the ground. Still need to put the h-pipe and muffles on. After that I'm going to take it to a shop to get the sub-frames welded in, the exhaust fixed, and an alignment. I'm going to take it to the shop with the interior out. That way I dont have to worry so much about greasy boots and stuff in the car.

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The rear upper torque box reinforcements were really sticking up and not fitting well. Not sure if I botched the install or if thats just how they are. Either way I decided to drill a couple extra holes and bolt it down. I figure it cant hurt. Only problem was trying to figure out how to hold the wrench inside the car and tighten the nut on the bottom.

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Take THAT you nasty bolt!

Wheels on!

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And on the ground.

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Remember these are the EIBACH sportline springs says they drop the car 1.3 to 2". The lift is on the ground and not picking the car up any. My tires are slightly shorter. That might be having more of an affect than I thought it would. Makes me really want bigger rims and tires LOL.
 
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Its funny the little things that you run into that hang things up. At this point I just want.to get the exhaust bolted back on so I can get the car to a shop to do the last bits so I can get it back on the road.

I tool the h-pipe off months ago. It's old. I'll probably replace it when I upgrade the exhaust system. When it came off it wasn't a big deal. Now that it has been off the hanger support that goes on the transmission tailshaft is being a total PITA.

I guess the rubber shrank a little. Then just fell out of the hanger. I was able to beat the little pieces onto the exhaust hangers, but couldn't get them into the bracket with the bracket mounted on the car. So it used a jack to support the transmission then removed the bracket. Got it installed on the exhaust.

Well, the way the studs line up on the headers prevents me from getting the exhaust on with the transmission crossmember installed.

I didnt have much time to mess with it this weekend. I think I'll try removing the studs from the headers. If that doesn't work I'll drop the crossmember.

Not really that big of a deal. Just me rambling in my corner.

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Its funny the little things that you run into that hang things up. At this point I just want.to get the exhaust bolted back on so I can get the car to a shop to do the last bits so I can get it back on the road.

I tool the h-pipe off months ago. It's old. I'll probably replace it when I upgrade the exhaust system. When it came off it wasn't a big deal. Now that it has been off the hanger support that goes on the transmission tailshaft is being a total PITA.

I guess the rubber shrank a little. Then just fell out of the hanger. I was able to beat the little pieces onto the exhaust hangers, but couldn't get them into the bracket with the bracket mounted on the car. So it used a jack to support the transmission then removed the bracket. Got it installed on the exhaust.

Well, the way the studs line up on the headers prevents me from getting the exhaust on with the transmission crossmember installed.

I didnt have much time to mess with it this weekend. I think I'll try removing the studs from the headers. If that doesn't work I'll drop the crossmember.

Not really that big of a deal. Just me rambling in my corner.

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If it's an aftermarket mid pipe it's not a big deal if you don't use those... I've had many of foxes with those being cut off and mid pip bolted up fine. You just have to use a jack under it to raise it to desired height then tighten down the bolts. Obviously the factory mid pipe with the four cats is much heavier then anything aftermarket so ideally you would want to use those hangers in that situation just figured i'd mention it as an option
 
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The H-pipe is back on the car! Ended up taking the transmission cross member off and having to set it on the H-pipe as everything was being installed. Me under the car balancing this thing on my head must have been pretty funny looking but it worked. It's probably going to leak like crazy at the header joints.
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