think i will pick up some power with bigger valves and F303 cam??

[Foxfan88]

i'm fixing to pull my heads off to replace the head gaskets. i am wanting to upgrade SOMETHING while i am down there. i am probably going to keep it cheap. i dont want to start spending money everywhere.

i was thinking having 1.9/1.6 valves put in my thumper heads and possibly swapping my b303 cam to an f303. i could pick up a tad of duration and quite a bit more lift. along with the 114 LSA to keep overlap down to help with the blower.

i dont feel like going custom and getting super bad heads at this time. i will save that for a BADASS engine i'd do in the future?

i think with the blower i can pick up some power with bigger valves and more lift and less overlap to build more pressure in the cylinder.

looking for some opinions who have used the f-cam with a blown application.

 

[stykthyn]

the f cam should respond well to the blower. I would def go with 1.7rrs if you dont already have them. Just out of curiosity, there are better cams out there than the f cam. the steeda cam was designed for boost and from what I have heard really kicks ass up to about 5500

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

That wouldn't hurt at all that F cam will definately helps in blown applications. That cam really likes power adders. I would pay close attention to valve clearance though, might be a bit tight with .512 and 1.94's

 

[Foxfan88]

i already have 1.7s so it would put the f cam lift at like .544

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

I have run the F with 1.7's and GT40Y heads with TRW2482's though it had good clearance. Keep the stock valve size and 1.7's and get them 5 angled and bowl hogged to help the flow

 

[ninety15.0]

I run the steeda # 18 cam which apparently was originally designed as a blower cam. The # 19 is a blower specific cam that supposedly has great results in mild blower applications.

If i were you i would focus my time/efforts and money on tuning equipment. Let me break it down for you cost wise...b/c i am currently going through it.

Tweecer RT - $550
Binary Editor and Engine Analyzer Software licenses -$110
Wideband O2 - $200 minimum

So you are looking at close to 1000 bucks just to get started with the tuning. And you can get a lot accomplished tuning the car on the street. But after you think you have everything tuned properly...you should spend at least a few pulls on the dyno to fine tune fuel and spark for max power.

I would say you will spend the majority of your tuning time working on part throttle and closed loop performance. Most boosted applications try to get into open loop and WOT status as quickly as possible. I would definitely concentrate your time/money on getting the car back together and getting it properly tuned.

 

[Foxfan88]

yeah i will be grabbing a tweecer for sure this winter along with the programs and a wideband. but i also have this URGE to do some small things while i have pretty much the whole engine torn apart. might as well ...lol