Thinking about some modifications...

[stangdude2000]

So I'm continuing to debate on continuing saving my money for a new car (maybe a corvette) late this summer or early next spring or modify the Mustang. I'm looking for some thoughts on the following...

1. I've thought about the RoushCharger. Now that I've seen the Saleen ShakerCharger, I'm considering that too once it comes out.

2. Staying naturally aspirated. I'm considering this setup: Kooks mid-length headers w/ high flow cats (ones on Brenspeed), JLT intake w/ Brenspeed tune, and the NSR cams (also from Brenspeed). Possibly also the CMCV delete plates. Gears and a shifter would probably come shortly thereafter. Install rates are going to differ area to area, but how many hours would the first 4 items be to get done at a shop? I saw in another post LT's would be about 4 hours. What about the NSR cams? Intake I could do myself, but I feel like I might as well just have them throw it on while they are at it.

What do you guys think of the two options? Also, while warranty is not by biggest concern, I do not want to have to end up throwing lots of $$ into repairs. Which setup would likely prove more durable?

 

[Hoboattacker]

Why only the mid-length headers? These cars don't really have issues with scraping. I have long tubes with a lowered car and no scraping issues unless they are really sharp angles. Headers are usually about 500-600 bucks for install because of how much of a pain in the ass they are. Cams are usually pretty pricey too, ranging from 800-1000 from what I hear. You could install the JLT intake in 15 minutes. It just requires you to remove the stock and put the new one one.

I would go with the Saleen and get the shaker charger. Twin Screw is the way to go. Obviously I'm partial to Whipple, but Saleen is a great s/c and JDM is a great tuner. If you get a CAI right now, I would get the C&L Racer intake since it is the only after market CAI that will work with the Saleen (you can use this until the shaker charger comes out).

 

[kooldawg6]

Barring expense, the N/A route would be the least stressful on the engine as the cams are the only motor change you'd make. F/I adds quite a bit of stress to the lower end on these cars once you approach 425-450 RWHP which is easily attainable with somewhat low boost levels. Of course the fun factor of all the added power of F/I is hard to turn down when it comes to $ to $ factor! You can easily do the CAI swap yourself in the matter of minutes as hobo was stating!
I would get in touch with Excessive Motorsports as they are a NVMC supporter They do excellent work and stand behind it very well
I haven't really done much to mine motor/power wise and it is very streetable with 30K+ miles on the mods in just over a years time. I didn't care about the warranty after the first 12 months anyhow.

 

[DarkFireGT]

I'm going to try to install NSR cams myself once I get the money saved up for them. Never done anything like that before, but considering the springs don't need to be changed, it can't be that bad. After doing my own CMDP's, I've realized that tearing into the engine isn't as scary as I thought it would be.

If only TacoBill had a write-up!

 

[o0Dan0o]

What tools do you have? You can install everything but the cams with simple hand tools a jack and jackstands. That includes the blower.

The reason I bought the mustang was to work on it, which is why it has 2200 miles and long tubes on it. I'm mostly done with power mods now, but I have a lot of suspension work to do.

Sure you can work on a corvette too, but it's not the same to me. With due respect to our cars, there is a lot to improve on. And most of these improvements can be done in your garage with hand tools and jackstands. The corvette on the other hand, well thats mostly just tweaking, everything else is pretty well sorted for you. Though with cams and long tubes you can make stupid power with the LS2...
Dan

 

[o0Dan0o]

If only TacoBill had a write-up!

LOL, seriously. Hell, before I changed my oil I looked at his write up just so I wouldn't have to guess what size the drain plug was.

NSR cams are still a bit of work. My understanding is that you have to take off the front cover, unless you have some super special tool that costs $300 (from what I have heard).

 

[ranger04]

I would hold off on cams as ford racing is developing a set thats good for 30 hp on stock heads, 75 on ported heads, stock springs and no lose of mid range. Last I heard there were 2 sets being tested and sound promising.

 

[stangdude2000]

What tools do you have? You can install everything but the cams with simple hand tools a jack and jackstands. That includes the blower.

None. I have a jack, torque wrench, screwdrivers, and hammers. The only sockets I own are for the wheels. I also don't have a garage, so doing the work on my own is unfortunately out of the question. I would be too afraid of screwing something up anyway.

So many options... Thanks for all the feedback so far!

 

[o0Dan0o]

When I did the long tubes I almost didn't use sockets, mostly wrenches. And from what I have seen the only sockets you need are 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 17mm. I did buy a set of ratcheting wrenches to make life easier.

It's definitely not a bad idea to get a shop to do work you're not comfortable with, a cam swap is a perfect example. But a shop will never treat your car with the same care you will. At least that's my philosophy.

Saying all that, if you want a car mostly for the driving experience then it's hard to beat a vette. Guages that actually work (temp and oil pressure), excellent performance, outstanding suspension. Only downside really is lack of space.
Dan

 

[kooldawg6]

I did buy a set of ratcheting wrenches to make life easier.

It's definitely not a bad idea to get a shop to do work you're not comfortable with, a cam swap is a perfect example. But a shop will never treat your car with the same care you will. At least that's my philosophy.

Dan

I need to get myself a set of the ratcheting wrenches!

That is why I mentioned the motorsports shop that is a supporter of the Stang club we're in.

 

[o0Dan0o]

Yeah, my buddy helped me, and we kept arguing over who got to use the "rat****ting" wrenches, heh

 

['05GT]

Hey Stangdude, I now own a 2007 GT conv. and was recently having the same concern. I was looking at the new 2008 Corvette or the GT500. I like both cars, however the corvette offers more for your money when you look at the price. Now, let's look alittle------ mustang gt sells for msrp (fully loaded) approx 32000. Corvette 46505. Mustang gives 5speed trans(maual or auto), 300hp, 17"wheels with skinny tires, moderate handling, moderate interior, and a hardtop. Corvette gives you 6speed (manual or auto- auto has paddle shifting), 430hp, 18/19" wheels with wider tires, great handling, great interior, and has a targa roof. Grant you- the vette is not cheap, but if you spend money to modify the stang, how much will you spend? And will you get it back in return(in value). Vettes have a long history of retaining their value more than the mustang. I feel these are all the factors you need to consider. To compare the GT500 to the vette, well, I didn't, because that is what pushed me over. Gt500 were bringing $20000 over msrp - and that to me is NO GREAT DEAL. I know that true mustang diehards are going to snort and kick - let them. Ford needs to hear that the car that was once built to satisfy the everyday performance minded buyer with great performance at an affordable price is no longer happening. Other manufacturers are now stepping up. All ford did was a redesign and then add options to boost profit only to keep delivering the same old crap (no real changes since 2005 redesign). The hoods still shake and move at highway speeds(ford should have fixed this by now- they are in the forth production year). All I can say is, make your choice wisely and look for value. You may find that with Ford or you may not.

 

[o0Dan0o]

For the price, the GT's are a good value, I mean, hell, I got mine for 24,500 after rebates. Your point about mods and resale is a good one, but that depends on when you plan on selling your car. If you own it for two year then its a big deal, if you own it for five then not so much. Also, the mustangs interior is not much worse than the vettes, especially if it's fully loaded. Frankly, vette interiors just aren't that nice. The seats are better though, mustang seats are way too "one size fits all" for me.

For the price difference you quoted, $14500, well that's a hell of a lot of nice mods. For that much you could easily make the mustang faster than the vette in every way possible.

But I agree, it's all about personal preference.
Dan

 

[stangdude2000]

There are definitely a lot of factors I'm considering. At the absolute earliest it would be late summer before I could save enough of a down payment to have relatively reasonable monthly payments on a stripped Vette. I'd be more inclined to wait til next spring/summer.

If I were to start modding the car, I'd intend keep it for several years, or unless the 6.2L 400hp V8 is a reality for 2010. All that money is sunk though - MAYBE I'd be able to get 10% back. I've looked at 1 or 2 year old Corvettes and they cost basically as much as it would cost me to get a new one. For a car, not a bad investment.

Bad things about the Corvette: Two seats. Granted, I don't have kids, so not a terrible thing. But that rare occasion where I want to bring two friends somewhere would get tough.
The base package, 1LT, has fewer options than my car. To get some of the options I have, I'd need the 2LT, and to get all (plus some) I'd need the 3LT. The 2LT is still reasonable, but the 3LT starts at $51,500. Without the Z51 package. That's getting really expensive. Even if I could put enough down to get reasonable payments, would I want to?
Insurance. I don't even want to know.

I'm probably just going to have to sit, save, and think. I'm still interested in everyone's thoughts though!

 

[Hoboattacker]

Barring expense, the N/A route would be the least stressful on the engine as the cams are the only motor change you'd make. F/I adds quite a bit of stress to the lower end on these cars once you approach 425-450 RWHP which is easily attainable with somewhat low boost levels. Of course the fun factor of all the added power of F/I is hard to turn down when it comes to $ to $ factor! You can easily do the CAI swap yourself in the matter of minutes as hobo was stating!
I would get in touch with Excessive Motorsports as they are a NVMC supporter They do excellent work and stand behind it very well
I haven't really done much to mine motor/power wise and it is very streetable with 30K+ miles on the mods in just over a years time. I didn't care about the warranty after the first 12 months anyhow.

I dunno dude, I haven't heard of anybody blowing a motor on 425rwhp and very few on 450rwhp and that was because of a ****ty ass tune (12.5+ afr). F.I. is extremely reliable on these cars if you get a good enough tune. Go with saleen and get a JDM mail order tune. They are the best tuners for the saleen super-charger bar-none.

If you are really worried about power output, which I don't know why you would unless you're pushing over 490-500rwhp, I'd go ahead and get the magnacharger. It's a GREAT blower if you don't want to have any plans on building a motor. The magnacharger basically maxes out around 400-425rwhp.