Timing advance w/spout out?

[jabGT]

I am trying to track down a detonation problem along with a hot start problem. When I check my timing (spout out) and rev the engine while checking timing my timing advances a few degrees roughly 4 or less (hard to tell). Is this normal? if not what component should look into, distributor, timing chain? Also when the car is hot I have a hard time starting but will eventually start but only when a disengage the starter.

Thanks for the help.

 

[jrichker]

With the SPOUT out timing should be locked and not advance or retard.

 

[87'GTstang]

With the SPOUT out timing should be locked and not advance or retard.

Exactly, you interrupt the computer's output signal when the spout is removed.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Sounds like a stretched timing chain. That could be your problem. How many miles?

 

[jabGT]

85,000 miles on the car original engine. Man, it would be great if this the solution to my ongoing problem.

 

[notchback]

i doubt that it's stretched....5.0's have a double roller stock.

w/ only 85 k...i really really doubt it

150 k maybe

 

[jabGT]

Yeah I just went to check it again (just got home) and it is retarding max 2* not advancing when I rev the engine. However I do have somthing going on because when I first checked it I had it set to 12* BTDC but as the car sat and idled for a while I checked it again and it was 8* BTDC Distributor bolt is tight. So could it be in my distributor? What effect could affect this timing change with the spout out as the car warmed up? And again I do have a hot start problem also. Is it possible if it magically retards itself that it is also advancing itself? Somtimes when I drive the car during acceleration I will feel a slight kick of power, almost like somthing kicked in????

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[HISSIN50]

Are you sure the balancer has not slipped? With that blower, if you have the stock balancer, that could lead to some issues (not that it is the case here).

Good luck.

 

[jabGT]

No the balancer is new. However I am an idiot I must of bumped the timing light advance knob thats my problem when the timing "magically" changed.
I need to check my timing with it on "0" right.

 

[jabGT]

Wait a second!!! Do I set the timing light advance to desired adavnce and then line the 0 TDC to the pointer. Holy **** was I running 24* base timing.

 

[HISSIN50]

You can set the timing with the light's advance mechanism or not - just be consistant.

It sounds like you are not using it (you have the timing degree you desire painted - like 14*, etc). If so, keep the light set at 0* advance.

Good luck.

 

[jabGT]

So if I have the timing light knob set to "0" I set the pointer on the balancer to the desired timing. If I have the timing knob set 12* BTDC I align the 0 on the balancer to the pointer.

 

[HISSIN50]

So if I have the timing light knob set to "0" I set the pointer on the balancer to the desired timing. If I have the timing knob set 12* BTDC I align the 0 on the balancer to the pointer.

Sorry, your post overlapped mine earlier.

The two methods:

Using the light's advance feature: paint and focus on 0* on the balancer only. Then use the dial on your light to set the timing (if you want 14*, set the dial to 14. Then watch for the 0* mark to aline on the timing pointer). I dont like this way.

The old school method: Like you said, put the light's advance dial on 0 and forget you have a light with advance. Then get 14* (for example - whatever you want to set it at) sighted in the timing pointer and call it good. Double check that your advance knob did not move (I tend to bump mine when I put it away or take it out of the tool box).

I dont like using the light's advance feature because on my cheap POS light, the advance feature is off by a degree or two. If I do it old school, I know what I got, ya know. You can test yours for fun and if accurate, use it.

Good luck.

 

[HISSIN50]

And yeah, I think you had it right in post 12. I skimmed it too quick and could have saved myself some typing.

 

[jabGT]

Yeah, I was doing it correctly all along. I guess I wasn't thinking straight (lack of sleep) last night. I still having a detonation and hot start proplem, Should I look into the distributor/TFI, when the PIP goes bad is it possible is possible to cause a detonation problem from over advance timing. I did a search a found that people having problems with the PIP the car will occasional die, mine has never done that.

Thanks for the help again.

 

[HISSIN50]

Yeah, I was doing it correctly all along. I guess I wasn't thinking straight (lack of sleep) last night. I still having a detonation and hot start proplem, Should I look into the distributor/TFI, when the PIP goes bad is it possible is possible to cause a detonation problem from over advance timing. I did a search a found that people having problems with the PIP the car will occasional die, mine has never done that.

Thanks for the help again.

The PIP cant cause detonation issues that I know of. Nor can the TFI. If the PIP goes, you will lose spark and injector pulsing (as opposed to losing the TFI, where you lose spark only). But I would think that your car would die when it gets hot if one of these were overheating. If the only time it dies or wont start is when you go to restart it after a short period (motor is hot), I would be lookin elsewhere. You might have too much cranking fuel for warm idle, etc. Flooring the gas pedal while (AND ONLY WHILE) cranking the motor will cut the injector pulse, if this is indeed the issue.

Good luck.

 

[Look Its Aaron]

Hmm.. I just got a new timing light yesterday. It's digital with buttons and what not.

So let's see if I got this straight.

I want my timing set to 10*. So I pull my spount set my timing light to read 10* and move the dizzy to read 0 on the crank right?

 

[Look Its Aaron]

If I am correct about my new timing gun on my post above, then I can retard or advance my light until I read 0 on the crack and what ever is on my gun would be my base timing right?

 

[HISSIN50]

Aaron, correct. You can use your light to advance the ignition timing, using nothing more than the balancer's 0* timing mark.