Timing chain/gears.. what to get?

9

92Patrol5.0

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Feb 11, 2004

#1

• Feb 11, 2004

• #1

My balancer is going to be replaced, and I figure while I'm there I might as well change the timing gears/chain since I have 164k on my engine and don't know if that stuff has ever been replaced. I have a basic stock engine with the exception of exhaust stuff. What is a good setup to get?

 

TIMMY2734

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#2

• Feb 11, 2004

• #2

Theres alot mor work to changing the timing chain than just removing the balancer. Its a good job for a weekend and involves removing the oil pan a good bit to get the cover off. Just want to make sure you know what your getting into.

As for what brand, the FMS double roller chain is a good piece. Cloyles also makes nice stuff as well

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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Feb 12, 2004

#3

• Feb 12, 2004

• #3

I wasn't aware the oil pan needed to be removed that much to get the cover off. The manuals just say that 2 of the bolts on the oil pan need to be removed b/c they also hook into the timing cover. I am aware it's not a 30 min process. The stang is in the garage for the winter. I have to replace the balancer so I figured I might as well replace that as well. I have a couple months to get all this stuff done so, I figured what the heck. Anyway, thanks for the info and the suggestions. Anyone else have any opinion?

 

T

Tatertot

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Feb 12, 2004

#4

• Feb 12, 2004

• #4

You'll have to most likely loosen all the oil pan bolts in order to drop the pan enough to get the timing cover off and back on. Be real careful with the timing cover gaskets/seal. Most of the timing cover gasket kits come with "shorty" oil pan gaskets that you'll be able to use some RTV to tack in place if you rip the stockers, allowing you to not have to pull the pan and replace the whole pan gasket.
As far as a brand of timing chain goes I've had real good luck with the FMS units on a couple different motors. They're not too bad on price $60-$70 depending on the source. Hope this helps.

Tater

 

3

331 cobra

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Feb 12, 2004

#5

• Feb 12, 2004

• #5

I bought a nice timing chain a few years ago. It was a rollmaster double roller timing chain, made in australia. It cost around $100 and both sprockets were cnc machined billet steel and the crank sprocket was cut with 9 keyways. The quality was outstanding. While you are at it, oil pan studs and a one piece, reuseable rubber oil pan gasket would be easy upgrades.

Also, make sure that you check the condition of the water passages in the timing chain cover, and the water pump. With that many miles, there is a good chance that there is a lot of corrosion. If it is corroded, either get it welded up, or replace the cover. If you go for the welding route, it will help if you grind down the corrosion to expose good aluminum, then, after it's welded, make sure the cover is either fly cut or filed flat to give it a good sealing surface.

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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Feb 13, 2004

#6

• Feb 13, 2004

• #6

Thanks for the info. Where did you get the rollmaster timing set? I haven't had much time to look around, I just glanced through Summit a little bit, which doesn't have the FMS double in the catalog. I have replaced my water pump, and the passages looked to be in great condition. The question I have about the oil pan gasket is, I need to lift the engine up to be able to swap the pan gasket right? From what I have read in previous posts is that swapping the pan gasket is a major PITA. I'm not sure if I want to tackle that job or not. The gasket seems to have a little bit of a leak in the rear, but it's not dripping or anything. I think my rear main is leaking again though, after being replaced about 2 years ago when the clutch was redone. So I might go ahead and pull the tranny and clutch and replace that also. With all of that stuff off, will it make swapping the oil pan gasket easier?

 

Smokedawg

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Jul 6, 2001

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#7

• Feb 13, 2004

• #7

I have had my timing chain cover off and on twice with the motor still in the car with pan attached..

Its an afternoon job if you know what you are doing..

As far as which chain, I would just go with a FMS double roller...

Good luck!
-Smoke

 

HoofnIt

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Feb 13, 2004

#8

• Feb 13, 2004

• #8

I had to replace the oil pan gasket on my '92 a few summers ago and let me tell you it was not a fun thing to do. I managed to get the 2-piece gasket in while jacking the motor up. Also, you will be able to change out the timing chain & gears without dropping the oil pan. Make sure you have some Loc-Tite for the cam bolt. Good luck.

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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#9

• Feb 13, 2004

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When replacing the oil pan gasket, how far down does the pan have to come to get the old gasket out and new gasket in? I assume it will be easier if I have the tranny and clutch off of the engine. There's quite a puddle of oil under my car right now b/c the rear main is dripping pretty good, I'm assuming its the rear main but I haven't put the car up to take a look yet. Anyway, thanks for all the advice so far. Where can I get the FMS double roller at? I haven't seen it in Summit.

 

3

331 cobra

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Feb 13, 2004

#10

• Feb 13, 2004

• #10

I bought my rollmaster from a mustang shop that is gone now, but I did find several places that list the rollmaster part number, but few places have price lists.

Here is a quote from http://www.bluethunderauto.com/

Timing chain sets are "Rollmaster" billet steel C.N.C. machined in Australia, with 9 key-ways for ease of cam timing. Chain is seamless full roller type "IWIS" chain from Germany. Available in 25+ applications for American engines including availability of (at extra cost) small block and big block Chev. chain sets with an incapsulated Torrington thrust bearing already installed, which requires no machining to install.

Here are the part numbers of interest, I'm not sure which one is right.

Ford Windsor 225-289-302/302 Boss 351 Boss ............................. CS8289-351W
Ford Cleveland 302C-351C-351M-400M ...................................... CS83051C
Ford Big block 429-460 .................................................................. CS842960
Ford FE 352-360-390-410-427-428 .............................................. CS8352428
Ford Windsor HO Factory HYD roller cam with serpentine belt ........ CS8302 HO
Ford Boss 302 SVO Cleveland ....................................................... CS1024
Ford EA & later OHC 6 cyl three sprocket set ................................ CS1025
Ford Windsor HO Balanced cam sprocket set roller cam ................. CS8302 HO C/W
Ford Windsor HO 4140 Heat treated crank sprocket set ................. CS8302 HO4140
Ford Windsor 4140 Heat treated crank sprocket set 289-302 .......... FW/4040
Ford Windsor pre 1965 no boss on rear of cam sprocket 260 .......... CS1029

I forgot that your engine is still in your car. I changed my pan gasket while my engine was hanging from a hoist. Also it was a front sump 289 in a '65, so it's 95% the same on the engine side and totally different on the chassis side.

 

3

331 cobra

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#11

• Feb 13, 2004

• #11

Flowtech induction also carries the rollmaster timing chains.

here is a nice picture of a rollmastertiming chain set.

http://www.holleycarbs.com.au/rollmaster_picture.jpg

 

R

rod_351

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Feb 13, 2004

#12

• Feb 13, 2004

• #12

help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

changed upper intake gasket on a 88 truck 302 and now the damn things barely runs anis blowing alot of black smoke. Anyone have any ideas? Would a piece of the gasket that fell in the runner be why it is doing this? Not saying a piece actually fell in there but not sure. Not alot of room to work with . Any help would be awesome

 

R

rod_351

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Feb 13, 2004

#13

• Feb 13, 2004

• #13

sorry wrong post

 

rd

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Feb 13, 2004

#14

• Feb 13, 2004

• #14

rod_351 said:

changed upper intake gasket on a 88 truck 302 and now the damn things barely runs anis blowing alot of black smoke. Anyone have any ideas? Would a piece of the gasket that fell in the runner be why it is doing this? Not saying a piece actually fell in there but not sure. Not alot of room to work with . Any help would be awesome

Click to expand...

Definitely the Ford FRPP timing set that fits your car. They seem to be near bulletproof.

You don't need to drop the pan. You get a timing cover replacement gasket set that has a couple of gasket pieces for the front of the pan. There are 4 bolts, 2 per side from the pan to the cover. Just try to get the old gasket to cut cleanly at the block. Try to minimize the amount of debris that gets in the pan. Also. I usually drain the front part of the pan and then add some oil after this job.

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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Feb 13, 2004

#15

• Feb 13, 2004

• #15

I just put my car up and had a look....... Tell me, did I get lucky? I checked the oil pan and the gasket sticking out the sides is rubber....... is this a one-piece rubber gasket already installed?? I assume the factory gasket isn't rubber?? Please tell me I'm lucky and it's already done for me? If it's a one piece rubber gasket there, I won't need to put anything there when I reinstall the timing cover will I? As far as putting in some new gasket piece since the rubber one is already there?

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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#16

• Feb 14, 2004

• #16

 

Mustang5L5

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Mod Dude

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#17

• Feb 14, 2004

• #17

92Patrol5.0 said:

I wasn't aware the oil pan needed to be removed that much to get the cover off.

Click to expand...

No need to drop the pan, just remove the two bolts that go from the pan into the timing cover. No need to remove anything else.

 

Mustang5L5

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#18

• Feb 14, 2004

• #18

TIMMY2734 said:

As for what brand, the FMS double roller chain is a good piece. Cloyles also makes nice stuff as well

Click to expand...

FYI. The FMS double roller timing chain set IS made by Cloyes.

So if you can't find the FMS chain, just get a Cloyes chain. It's probably cheaper too

 

9

92Patrol5.0

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#19

• Feb 14, 2004

• #19

Can anyone answer my question about my oil pan gasket? Do I already have the one-piece rubber gasket? Or does it sound like the factory gasket?

 

Black331Stang

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Feb 14, 2004

#20

• Feb 14, 2004

• #20

i think my stock gasket is rubber....and its like blown out the sides of the pan. At 2 years old ii highly doubt the RM seal is leaking. I say its the oil pan gasket. I had my RM seal done and it still leaked like hell. Turns out it was my Oil pan.