"Tin Man" subframes for convertibles, let's discuss

70vert

New Member
Dec 31, 2004
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Bay Area, CA
ok guys, after deliberating for a long time and based on these criteria, it seems to me that the "Tin Man" SFCs here http://tinmanfabrication.com/Products.aspx would be the best thing for me (and a lot of other convertible Mustangs) based on the following criteria:

1) No or very little loss of ground clearance (I have lots of speed bumps locally and I want to go lower)

2) Strength of the unit itself

3) You would cut a notch into the underseat floor support and weld these in there in the middle. That way, your SFC is tied to the middle of the floor, which is fairly strong with those seat platforms above and extra floor support below)

What do you guys think? Is this setup the Holy Grail of SFCs? I got this info from Jim @ Tin Man:

"You are correct that you will have to go through the reinforcement pan that is unique to the convertibles. I am not sure how far from the floors that pan extends but our subframe connectors are made of 2" X 2" square tube and are spaced about 1/4" from the floor.

I have sold several sets to convertible owners and have had no complaints to date. I would certainly weld the subframe connectors to the floor
reinforcement. It would make the most sense to me to cut a notch out weld the connectors in place and then build a plate over the connector and into the floor reinforcement. This would significantly reinforce the structure of
your car."
 
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site with GREAT pics of the above

not on a convertible, but you get the idea. I like how it inserts into the front frame rail, and iit doesn't seem to hang any lower than the exhaust in these pics.

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/subframe.html

now just imagine in this pic if that beefy SFC came right through the extra convertible floor pan and were welded to it with a sheet metal brace over top of it welded in . . . whaddaya think?:

Subframe2.jpg
 

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That is the way I am doing mine. I am also using the connecting plate that goes over the tunnel gap by mounting it to cross bars that will be bolted to the subframes. I think if you bought the Tinman's version you would be set. I already have my 2x2 stock and plate for the brackets. Had I seen these a few months ago I would have bought them. Good luck with yours
 
x-brace, huh?

68converted said:
That is the way I am doing mine. I am also using the connecting plate that goes over the tunnel gap by mounting it to cross bars that will be bolted to the subframes. I think if you bought the Tinman's version you would be set. I already have my 2x2 stock and plate for the brackets. Had I seen these a few months ago I would have bought them. Good luck with yours

that sounds like a great idea for an x-brace add on to this type of system. How do you get clearance for your exhaust that way? It seems like the cross bars would interfere somewhat, or are you able to squeeze them in there somehow?
 
I am actually using the tubes to shim out the plate for exhaust clearance. sorry that was not clear. I have a big aluminum driveshaft and 2.5" exhaust so I needed the extra room. It is not put together yet but hope to get moving on it as soon as it warms up again.
 
If you have decent sheetmetal skills and access to the correct equipment I don't think it would be too difficult. If you had to farm out the work I doubt the benefit would offset the cost.

You would not only get the X-brace but if you did two of them you could have a driveshaft safety oop too (sorta).

I'd love to see pics of the project when you do it. If you cannot host them let me know and I can help.