I just put some late model mach I rims on my 68 coupe using the 1" bolt on adapters. My drivers side tire rubs on big bumps. My car is really not as low as I want it, there is a bit of a gap between the top of the tire and the wheel opening, I would like to eliminate that, maybe tucked a little. My tire size is 225/45-17. I have hear of people running 245's with no problem. I have rolled the fenders a little, but maybe not enough...those of you that have rolled your fenders, how much are they rolle, i mean, is it completly against the inside of the fender, or is the lip just bent over...pay no attention to my sig pic my ar is not that low, it is a photochop of what i would like the stance to be...
Tire Rubs..
- Thread starter nugget68
- Start date
dodgestang
Active Member
dodgestang
Active Member
how will that effect handling on a street car...since the new wheels and alignment the car rides more like a boat...when i hit a dip or something the car will pull one way...
stangman67
Member
I machined the front spacers for my mach 1s down to .800", which gave me that little bit of clearance. I had to also grind my upper control arms alittle, and no wheel wieghts on the inside lip.
dodgestang
Active Member
For street/performance the specs I lean towards are:
Caster: +2.0° to +3.0°
Camber: -.5° to -1.5°
Toe: 1/8" in
If your car pulls to one side or another perhaps your alignment guy didn't set both sides close enough to each other, or perhaps you have some bump steer issues to contend with. More negative camber will increase the turning performance for you, however, if you have not performed the Shelby a arm mod you are limited to how much you can run. Also bear in mind, too much and you will start to wear the inner of the tire faster, however, for a simple example I have -3 camber on my 65 and with 3-4 thousand miles on the tires they still do not show any unusual wear pattern from the street use the car has seen.
Caster: +2.0° to +3.0°
Camber: -.5° to -1.5°
Toe: 1/8" in
If your car pulls to one side or another perhaps your alignment guy didn't set both sides close enough to each other, or perhaps you have some bump steer issues to contend with. More negative camber will increase the turning performance for you, however, if you have not performed the Shelby a arm mod you are limited to how much you can run. Also bear in mind, too much and you will start to wear the inner of the tire faster, however, for a simple example I have -3 camber on my 65 and with 3-4 thousand miles on the tires they still do not show any unusual wear pattern from the street use the car has seen.
So with these alignement specs you gave, should i go to the +3.0, -1.5, and 1/8, or should I try to hit the median of these? also the car doesnt pull when i am going strait, just when the suspension travels up or down a bit...like if i hit a bump or if the transmission shifts hard...
That may be what i have to do...i wonder why the mach I wheels are any ifferent than the other late model wheels?
the rubbing is definatley on the fenders, maybe I wil lget a bigger hammer and go back in to roll the fenders some more...
brianj5600
Active Member
Moving the upper arm lower, Shelby drop, will help the top of the tire to pull in as it goes up. I would try that first. It is easy and free and will make the car handle better. You will need another allignment though, so much for the free.
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