To chip, or not to chip....that is the question.

Fett

New Member
Nov 2, 2004
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I am trying to schedule a dyno/tuning session here shortly to get my timing and fuel pressure set. Right now I just have the timing at 15* advance, and the fuel pressure at 40 with the vac line off. I want to get everything set perfectly for my current combo, hence the tuning session.

I am getting conflicting opinions on going with a chip or not. What started it off was my code 33 EGR issue, which I pretty much decided to simply remove the EGR and use one of those delete kits on eBay...the one that plugs into the EGR connector. But some people are telling me that I should get a chip custom burned when I get the tuning session, that way I can have the EGR system removed from the program. Others are telling me to just get my timing and fuel pressure set and leave it alone.

From my understanding, that with a n/a setup there is no real need for a custom burned chip. I don't have an automatic, so there would be no shifting issues to resolve. Just a simple "get as much power out of the current setup as I can" tune. Which should be able to be accomplished by setting the timing and fuel pressure on the dyno.

So, with a N/A setup, and mostly stock motor....do I really need a chip, or should I just get the timing and fuel pressure set and call it a day?
 
That's pretty much what I was figuring, that it would be a waste of money on my setup. Even when I change heads in the future, I don't think I will need a chip unless I go with a power-adder.
 
Wait until you've reached the point where you are either finished with the engine additions and or are having significant drivability issues that can't be eliminated. I pulled onto the dyno with my self tuned car and netted 276/305...left on that day with a mild program and NICE drivability..numbers were 291/317. My engine was complete in terms of changes...all components are staying in place so I installed an electric fan and changed to the high octane program on my SCT chip....numbers were nice..316/345. In my case the gains were significant but it cost some good $$ and I did it knowing I was NOT upgrading any further.
 
I agree with the Dman.
If getting a custom chip wait until the combo is complete.

However, if getting a handheld is an option, it may be better to get it before making major changes. This would give you time to learn the program and the basics on tuning before tuning a wild motor.

I wish I had picked up my tweecer sooner.

jason
 
Yeah, listen to DMAN.

If you were "done" with the engine...I would get a chip. But it isn't likely you are done:)

N/A isn't as neccessary to tune an engine with any kind of product. If you are boosted or go the nitrous route...then I would go with a chip/tune.
 
vristang said:
I agree with the Dman.
If getting a custom chip wait until the combo is complete.

However, if getting a handheld is an option, it may be better to get it before making major changes. This would give you time to learn the program and the basics on tuning before tuning a wild motor.

I wish I had picked up my tweecer sooner.

jason

Very well said :nice:

I learned my PMS on my old mild motor and now on this combo I have it down to a science :nice:
 
DMAN302 said:
Wait until you've reached the point where you are either finished with the engine additions and or are having significant drivability issues that can't be eliminated. I pulled onto the dyno with my self tuned car and netted 276/305...left on that day with a mild program and NICE drivability..numbers were 291/317. My engine was complete in terms of changes...all components are staying in place so I installed an electric fan and changed to the high octane program on my SCT chip....numbers were nice..316/345. In my case the gains were significant but it cost some good $$ and I did it knowing I was NOT upgrading any further.
So by running higher octane you went up that much in power levels? What exactly did the chip do for you when they programed it and you ran higher oct threw it? Did the chip just adjust the timming and fuel pressure? What oct did you go with? peace

john:p
 
The chip is a multi program style..I turn the toggle to use different programs burnt on it..ex "0" on the switch runs a program tuned using 91 octane, the timing curve is more conservative and with that the A/F is more conservative. Postion 2 is the one we used for when I run the higher octane fuel..it adds if I recall correctly 4 degrees thorughout the curve and in return also leans up the A.F a little more than a 1/2 point..to about 13. We (tuner, myself, and some friends) were quite surprised by the torque and hp jump from the previous runs earlier last month, we expected 10-15 gains from the timing. The biggest gain in my opinion was from the swap from the clutch style fan to the Efan...no so much down low but as the RPMs climbed you could see the car was just making more from the previous pulls everywhere after 3500 rpm. The clutch on my fan was brand new...TIGHT and regardless of what people say, removing that monster definately helped free up some high end power. As for you last few questions..fuel pressure is constant set at 40.5-41, fuel used for the higher numbers was sunoco 94, initial timing is 12 degrees but total advance is added by the chip..I won't pretend to be able to fully explain that part of it, but it's effective I have to say.
 
Grn92LX said:
Why? I KNOW you've never used either one so i'm curious about your (in)experiences.

You don't know me...lol.

Two friends...seen it in action...

Reviews by others...

So what was your point again?

I understand your a bit upset that the TwEECer blows your PMS out of the water...just enough to give you PMS:p
 
I have heard often that tweecers are the way to go. Stay away from superchips and hypertech pre programmed units. N/A setups don't net the gains boosted setups do, but as Dman posted gains can be found w/adjustable units. Before my s/c I pulled 271/309 at the wheels, pulled the chip, got 279/319. That was a superchip. Also, maybe I'm missing something but I can't find what year or model your car is:shrug:
 
Just remember when getting a chip burnt..you're locked in 'as is' any changes from your intake, air inlet type, heads, even your initial timing and FP are locked in..any changes will throw your tune out the window. The portable unit allows you to make changes as you go, a huge advantage for a guy who will want to continue to modify the performance aspects of his/her car. In my case the engine is new from intake to pan and I will not be changing anything engine wise. On my SCT chip I have four programs, one for mid grade fuels, one for high octane fuels, one that return me to my pretune original program, and an empty spot for a nitrous related program...it suits my needs, but not ideal for everyones situation.