torque wrench reliability

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
My click type is not clicking. I have an old needle type and I was wondering about the accuracy of such a critter. I don't see any way for it go out of calibration unless the pointer had been bent. So, how accurate are they as new?
I can't afford another "clicker" or to get this one fixed. My budget is $0.
 
The only problem with the old school type is the difficulty in using it.
They are only as good as the pointer and scale and you have to watch that indicator as you are using them.
 
Some people won't use the clickers unless they have to (in a place where you can't see the needle.) They say that the needle types are more accurate. I don't know but I have both. I use the clicker most of the time. After it clicks I tighten again until it clicks without moving.
 
The Craftsman torque wrench I bought had a thin plastic sleeve to lock the handle at the desired setting. By the time it got to be about ten years old that sleeve had broken. I took it to Sears and they gave me a new one (which btw came with a thicker, stronger locking sleeve), no questions asked.
 
rbohm said:
the beam type torque wrench will do just fine, as long as you are consistant in how you use it, and dont jerk the wrench.

Exactly. I like to even have a friend watch when using these, so you don't jerk the handle. I keep both arms straight, one on the handle,one on the head. then just lean back until they say "when." I do it that way when it's an important, and high torque job(mains and heads mostly)
 
I would be very leery of getting a click type torque wrench on lone from one of the parts stores. I click type torque wrench is one of the more delicate tools in the mechanics tool box it can be knocked out of calibration from hard impacts or misuse and you would never know. I bring my personal ones into work once a year and check them against the load cell we have just to make sure. If it is important enough to use a torque wrench it is important enough to make sure you use a calibrated tool. That is one of the good things about the beam type they are more robust but again harder to use and as far as accuracy is concerned it is more about technique than the tool as long as the tool you are using is in calibration.
 
Beam and scale acuracy directly correlates to price.

That said, How precise is the torque range of the bolts/nuts you are tightening? Chances are if you've got a 10-15lbs/ft range and you stay to the middle of the range on your "beam and scale" torque wrench you'll be OK.

Like Jester said, calibrating is the critical factor. When I wrenched professionally I had my wrenches tested yearly, along with my multi-meters. Had an old "beam and scale" Proto that was accurate to within 5 lbs/ft through the center of the range 60-80 lbs/ft but was way out on the top and bottom. Stayed that way for 20 years. I finally turned it into a plaque for a fellow tech when he made his "ASE Master Level" (he had worked his tail off to pass those tests). My inch pound wrenches where the ones I had to stay on top of as they are real sensitive to misuse.

Scott
 
Funny about this thread. I was helping my dad put a new swaybar end link on his Exploder today. I brought my Sears beam torque wrench. When I pulled it out he laughed and handed me his big $$ wrench. Being the good son I used his, and when I was finished. I put my cheap, beam torque wrench on the nut. Um, it was an identical reading. Dad was amused, but I was pleased to up him once. I used mine to do my heads and manifold as well, and now I am quite sure it was dead on.