what can you do to make the trac-loc work better? i allready have the rebuild kit and a f-150 s-spring. what else should i get to make it work better?
thx in advance
thx in advance
trac-loc tricks?
- Thread starter 5.0fox
- Start date
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
The factory pattern is something like shim clutch steel steel clutch steel steel clutch...etc.
You just switch it to sh-c-s-c-s-c-s and alternate them. You can get an extra clutch in on both sides. You take the crosspin out of the carrier, then the s-spring, then rotate the carrier and the spiders walk out. The clutches/steels will be behind the spiders.
Actually.....the S-spring will hurt you in cornering. It's designed to engage the clutches sooner but the spinrg does not provide the majority of the side load. That comes from the torque on the carrier when you are in motion. The harder you accel, the harder it presses the clutches in place. Now this is all well and good until you go to make a turn and the s-spring is pressing the clutches and your dragging one of the tires a little bit. The autocrossers leave the s-spring out to get better cornering. I did this and I get 2 solid black marks on takeoff and not a chirp during cornering.
Plus HAHAHAHA, putting in the f-150 spring......good luck with that! Better have a mallet handy. That thing is a rock.
You just switch it to sh-c-s-c-s-c-s and alternate them. You can get an extra clutch in on both sides. You take the crosspin out of the carrier, then the s-spring, then rotate the carrier and the spiders walk out. The clutches/steels will be behind the spiders.
Actually.....the S-spring will hurt you in cornering. It's designed to engage the clutches sooner but the spinrg does not provide the majority of the side load. That comes from the torque on the carrier when you are in motion. The harder you accel, the harder it presses the clutches in place. Now this is all well and good until you go to make a turn and the s-spring is pressing the clutches and your dragging one of the tires a little bit. The autocrossers leave the s-spring out to get better cornering. I did this and I get 2 solid black marks on takeoff and not a chirp during cornering.
Plus HAHAHAHA, putting in the f-150 spring......good luck with that! Better have a mallet handy. That thing is a rock.
HardmanGT
Founding Member
I agree, the whole F150 spring "upgrade" is pretty played out. It is a HUGE pain in the ass to get in and the real benifit comes from adding the extra clutches anyway. I have done enough rebuilds to know that.
accidentprone86
New Member
i just got done rebuilding my trak lok.The kit i had off e bay had 8 cluths and 8 steels.
Just rebuild it in the alternate order.
this site helps out a lot.
rear end rebuild
Just rebuild it in the alternate order.
this site helps out a lot.
rear end rebuild
hangman1515
New Member
Man I will tell you all the a Torsion drive is the way to go. Goto http://www.globalwest.net/torsen_traction_differential.htm
This explans what a torsion diff is. No clutch pack just pure power. That is what I have in my rear.
This explans what a torsion diff is. No clutch pack just pure power. That is what I have in my rear.
HardmanGT
Founding Member
hangman1515 said:
No doubt the Torsen is an awesome unit. I guess that depends on wether you want to spend $50 or $500 for your rear.
hangman1515
New Member
More link $600 is what I paid for my Zexel Torsion Diff. For my autocrosser it is the best. It is well worth the money.
i have a press so the s-spring shouldnt be a problem. but i dont wanna do that if its better to change the packing order. what if i do both?
NOSNotch
Founding Member
Im gettin ready to rebuild my trac-lok this weekend and prob gonna do the alternate clutch stack. Does it hurt anything to leave the s spring out? Or is it not really worth it to leave it out since i dont do any AutoXing?
crazypete
All my crevices are greased.
I can honestly say it hurts positively nothing at all, been haulin around on the street without an s-spring for quite a while. I can hear the DS tire bark when I take off so the tracloc is working. It's probably one of those factory bandaids for a bad design.
And if it's not doing it for you then you could pretty easily pop the endcover, take the pin out and push the spring in.
Another point of advice....dont use friction modifier. It is hands down the worst smelling stuff I have ever encountered in my life. Just get some synthetic gear oil 75w-90 and it will have that friction additive in non smelly form built in. Plus if you get 5% better milage from reduced differential drag due to the synthetic, it will pay for itself in a few months.
And if it's not doing it for you then you could pretty easily pop the endcover, take the pin out and push the spring in.
Another point of advice....dont use friction modifier. It is hands down the worst smelling stuff I have ever encountered in my life. Just get some synthetic gear oil 75w-90 and it will have that friction additive in non smelly form built in. Plus if you get 5% better milage from reduced differential drag due to the synthetic, it will pay for itself in a few months.
OL' WHITEY
New Member
If you do the extra clutch disc mod, it will be more difficult to get the F150 spring in there. If you've got 3.73's you can pretty much forget the F150 spring. If I had to choose, I'd do the discs rather than the spring. Just do the discs and put the factory spring back in there. That's what I did. It works 10x better than new! Locks up like a mofo.
HardmanGT
Founding Member
