Trac-Loc vs. Locker

70Machwon

New Member
Feb 12, 2004
35
0
0
Bay Area, CA
Now that my car is painted (pics to come soon :banana: ) It is time to look for some gears. I am thinking 3.50s, but i dont know weather to go for a trac-loc or a detrioit locker. My car is my daily driver, but i am not too interested in road racing, or turning fast, so i think the locker is the way to go. Also, what do you need for each set up. For the trac-loc, do you need a whole new third member and everything, or just gears?

Thanks for all the help, i am definatly a gearing noob.
 
From what I've heard and read, detroit locker is not fun on the street. You'll drag one rear wheel in corners, since the wheels turn exactly the same amount all the time.

I would think that driving in the rain or any kind of slippery conditions could get treacherous as well. If you apply a little too much power, the back end will whip around so fast!! :bang:

I did that on my 6 cylinder with one-legged rear end and no horse power to speak of on an interstate on ramp. I was very lucky not to smash it. I drive extra carefully in the rain now. :D
 
Lockers are not locked all the time. You will hear them ratchet as you go around corners which means that it is disengaging and engaging. I know there a many people here that drive them often, they should be able to tell you exactly what its like.
 
Lockers are loud. Well mine is anyway. Yes, you can hear and feel mine ratchet in and out and yes, I do get wheel drag or skip when in parking lots or turning slow.

I want to replace my locker with a trac-loc unit or a newer locker but just haven’t done it yet because it’s not high on the priority list.

There are different types of lockers out there. I’m guessing I have an old style or maybe mine isn’t working correctly and that’s why it’s so loud. I’m told the new lockers are much quieter. Summit Racing has a nice locker for between $400 and $500 from what I remember.
 
I got a locker not very long ago and I after talking to many shops I was told if they are quite then they are not very good. A strong quality locker will always make noise. I can hear mine but not feel it ratchet; only when I give it gas to make it lock I feel it. In tight turns like in parking lots and stuff I can make it hop and screech but just under normal driving never on the road. If mine were a daily driver I would not want a locker. It gets annoying and in rain I can only just slightly crack the throttle in a turn or the back will swing out.
 
I have one of each. For a daily driver I would suggest a T-lock. The locker is loud, harsh and rude, exactly what I want in the Shelby. You feel is as much as you hear it. A T-lock in good repair would be a better choice for a daily car... Good luck...
 
I prefer the Trac-Loc for all but a true race car. Mine have served me well over the years and they are quiet. Lockers are great at the track but I'm not a big fan of them on the street but if you want to use one on the street FRPP sells (or at least used to) a ligher spring to be put in the locker that is not supposed to affect the locking feature under hard load but greatly reduces the hopping and racheting for casual driving.
 
Great68 said:
I want a Trac Lok for my 8", but they are all but impossible to find in canada.
Original 8" Trac-Locs are hard to find anywhere. I just happened across one in a salvage yard about 10 years ago....and bought it for $40 even though Both my Mustangs have 9" rearends, couldn't just leave it there. To date it is the only original one I have ever seen in the wild.
 
I went with a LOCK-RIGHT instead of a locker. Its small and locks both wheels in a positive positraction but when you turn in unlocks, works great and it in my 8 inch. a little noisy but I dont hear it with 2-1.2 flowmasters. :D
 
I just bought a whole 3rd member from a company for my locker. Also did the 31 spline conversion. Buying the whole thing makes it easy to just drop in and know that it is built right. Moser, Strange, and Currie all sell everything you will need. I'd give one of them a call, they were all very easy to talk to. Also any transmission or rearend shop will do this for you but then you have to pay labor also. I'd also change you axle bearings while you are at it if you haven't yet. I have a Strange 3rd member and Moser axles. I'm not sure of each individual part you will need if you want to build it yourself.
 
I had a Powertrax No-slip on my 2002 Jeep Wrangler. It's is meant to be mild on the street. Let me tell you it sucks with a stick. I pulled it out and threw a Lcokright in the front. I have a Lockright in my Cherokee and I notice it less because it is an auto trans. Trans makes a huge difference.