Traction

mdjay

Premium Sponsor
Dec 9, 2003
896
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16
Las Vegas, NV
Alright, here's the deal. I want a traction master type of set-up, but with rod ends or the like so I don't loose the cornering.

I already have a the 5 leaf mids, the pan hard, the torque arm. I am runnin' quite a bit of hp, so I get a mean wheel hop off the line, only off the line. The torque arm seems to to it's job when shifting gears, but it wants ladder bars badly. I just can't give up the corners for launch here and there...

Has anyone seen a good 4 link set-up that can integrate easily with my current set-up or is there a better solution I'm unaware of?
 
Maybe its not the traction, do you have a torque strap on you engine? I threw some underrides on my car to get rid od wheel hop but didn't get a change. After the torque strap was installed it fixed the problem. Got that one fron Opentracker.
 
latamud said:
Maybe its not the traction, do you have a torque strap on you engine? I threw some underrides on my car to get rid od wheel hop but didn't get a change. After the torque strap was installed it fixed the problem. Got that one fron Opentracker.


No, I don't think so anyway. I have the TCP motor mounts and the motor doesn't move...
 
rbohm said:
you can use the traction masters bars, and not lose any cornering power, in fact you will likely gain cornering power, even without the rod ends.

It's my understanding, without the articulation of the rod ends, you can bind the regular traction masters. They only move in a single plane. (hit a bump in a turn kinda thing)
 
jerry S said:
Does anyone know what it would take to install a set of these? I don't have a welder and would have to pay somebody to do that for me. Just trying to figure out the costs involved.

I think They just bolt in.
You have to remove the J bolts, plates and also the front Bolt of your leaf springs. NO WELDIING or MODS required.
 
Pbum5 said:
I think They just bolt in.
You have to remove the J bolts, plates and also the front Bolt of your leaf springs. NO WELDIING or MODS required.

I was reading into the top link to the cal trak site, and found that you have to remove your front eye bushings completely. Then everything bolts in.
 
mdjay said:
It's my understanding, without the articulation of the rod ends, you can bind the regular traction masters. They only move in a single plane. (hit a bump in a turn kinda thing)

dont forget that the leaf springs also move in essentially a single plain. the traction masters use a rubber bushing like the leaf springs, so there is some bushing flex, about as much as the bushings in the leaf spring bushings.
 
jerry S said:
Does anyone know what it would take to install a set of these? I don't have a welder and would have to pay somebody to do that for me. Just trying to figure out the costs involved.

They are an absolute breeze to install, just an afternoon. Here's some installation pictures of mine going in:

http://www.edbert.net/axle.htm

I did them at the same time as a leaf spring, 9-inch, disc brake install and it took less than a day. Here's just one unobstructed shot of the bar:

axle05.webp


Edit: No welding required but you'll need a hydraulic press to get the bushings replaced on your springs. I had a shop swap mine out.
 

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rbohm said:
dont forget that the leaf springs also move in essentially a single plain. the traction masters use a rubber bushing like the leaf springs, so there is some bushing flex, about as much as the bushings in the leaf spring bushings.

Good point!

However, you're talking about one spring. They move independent of each other so the rear end needs to be able to articulate. A stable bar would bind if one side of the spring is compressed enough!