i have an 89' notch with 306 and rebuilt t-5. The problem is it is so hard to shift into gear, sometime I use two hands. the trans is leaking a little from the top, probably from when it was rebuilt. It has a heavy duty clutch and I heard the firewall can give a little causing it to not totally disengage. I was considering swapping to a tremec or a built t-5. Also getting new clutch cable/adjuster. I think a company called Promotion Performance Powertrain sells something called a Wide Trac Firewall Stabilizer System which sandwiches the firewll between 2 peices of cnc cut aluminum to prevent firewall flex. Also does a Centerforce Clutch have the same hard to puch pedal as a heavy duty clutch? ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE?????
trans/clutch problems
- Thread starter 50notch
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tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Promotion is a great company ..based in Florida. I have a proshifted Promotion Tremec in my car (w/ synchros). I could not be happier. I have had a CF clutch and I would suggest a McLeod clutch - nicest clutch I've had!! A much lighter pedal feel than the CF.
-----tunedin302------
You have a tremec. How was the install. you need new bellhousing, yolk for driveshaft(31 spline), what about crossmember? did it need to be moved and rewelded? Also the tremec is shorter than the t-5 so you need a longer drive shaft or I think Promotion makes a cnc spacer for like 60$. Any thing else needed for swap.
You have a tremec. How was the install. you need new bellhousing, yolk for driveshaft(31 spline), what about crossmember? did it need to be moved and rewelded? Also the tremec is shorter than the t-5 so you need a longer drive shaft or I think Promotion makes a cnc spacer for like 60$. Any thing else needed for swap.
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
50notch said:
Install was fine. I used the following pieces:
1. Tremec TKOII (26 spline)
2. Fidanza billet steel flywheel (optional)
3. McLeod clutch/PP
4. Promotion extended fork (optional but very worth it)
5. FMS aluminum D/S
6. Fel-pro teflon Rear Main Seal (optional)
7. McLeod scattershield (optional, can also use a Tremec bell)
8. 23 tooth speedo gear
9. Steeda shifter
10. Pilot/TO bearings
11. 3 quarts GM synchromesh
You don't have to use a spacer if you are doing this on a fox body. I had to modify the cross-member by cutting the welds and sliding the mount back about 1 inch. Some people have said they haven't had to modify this piece. You will have to get a clutch alignment tool (in my case 26 spline). Since it is a GM you may have to wrap the input in some electrical tape to get it to fit into the pilot bearing. Also, you can buy an unwelded FMS cross member, bolt the Tremec up to it, and then re-weld it. The only problem I ran into was with my h-pipe. When I went to put it on, the tremec mounts had pushed the cross-member back, i.e. the hanger mounts were now further back. I had to cut off the hangers on the H-pipe. I ordered new ones from Bassani and had them welded on in the correct location. Good luck and I would be glad to help with any questions you may have.
Between the HD clutch and the Centerforce clutch the CF clutch will need not NEAR as much clutch effort. I have a CF Stage II and love it...
McCleod makes a firewall "stabilizer" for around $40 bucks I think. I doubt that is your problem...but it could be...and maximum motorsports makes a strut tower brace for about $130 that helps strengthen the firewall because of the location of it's mounts.
I would check your adjustment...if it isn't adjusted right by the firwall adjuster it won't go into gear or it will be hard like you described...
When you say leaking from the top...where at exactly?
McCleod makes a firewall "stabilizer" for around $40 bucks I think. I doubt that is your problem...but it could be...and maximum motorsports makes a strut tower brace for about $130 that helps strengthen the firewall because of the location of it's mounts.
I would check your adjustment...if it isn't adjusted right by the firwall adjuster it won't go into gear or it will be hard like you described...
When you say leaking from the top...where at exactly?
Do you have a firewall adjuster...I'm guessing not...if/when you do it is easy to adjust...
If you use a firewall clutch cable adjuster you can turn it counterclockwise and make the clutch pedal grab closer to the floor. If you turn it counterclockwise it will raise the pedal grab higher up. Replacing the stock plastic quadrant is a good idea and can soften up your pedal as well with the feel. I have seen and learned from personal experience that an OEM non-adjustable cable with a firewall adjuster is a great combo to have and keeps the pedal feel softer than what it could be...in my case...
If you use a firewall clutch cable adjuster you can turn it counterclockwise and make the clutch pedal grab closer to the floor. If you turn it counterclockwise it will raise the pedal grab higher up. Replacing the stock plastic quadrant is a good idea and can soften up your pedal as well with the feel. I have seen and learned from personal experience that an OEM non-adjustable cable with a firewall adjuster is a great combo to have and keeps the pedal feel softer than what it could be...in my case...
