Trouble codes 311 & 314?

[mustangt562]

I did my routein code check and I got a 311= thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test. 314= thermactor air system fault during engine run self test left side. What the heck is a thermactor and how much and how easy is it to replace? Thanks fellas

 

[legalize420]

did you remove the smog pump? those codes will show up if you did

 

[HISSIN50]

More specifically (and where L420 was going), did you remove the TAB/TAD? The car doesnt know if there is an AIR pump present.

Good luck.

 

[mustangt562]

More specifically (and where L420 was going), did you remove the TAB/TAD? The car doesnt know if there is an AIR pump present.

Good luck.

what is a tab/tad?
my smog pump is still on.

 

[HISSIN50]

TAB and TAD = Thermactor Air Bypass and TA-Diverter. They are what direct the output stream from the AIR pump. The puter's only connection to the AIR systems are these two solenoids (a resistor can get rid of the code because of this).

The solenoids and valves for all of this are in the passenger fender well and on the discharge lines egressing the AIR pump.

 

[mustangt562]

Still broke

I put in a new smog pump but still got the same codes. What in the world could it be?

 

[HISSIN50]

As mentioned, the puter does NOT know if you even have a smog pump in the car. All it sees is the presence of the TAB and TAD. There are electrical connectors going to these from the puter, hence their importance. Otherwise, the computer has no idea if you have any lines connected, an air pump, a gerbil on a wheel, or anything else.

See if your solenoids get 12 volts with the key on. Also see if there is manifold vac to the solenoids. Then ensure the vac line to the valves are in good shape (no leaks). I have tesed the valves (in the air pump discharge hose, running along the passenger side of the engine bay) by simply sucking on the vac line to the valve. You can feel the valve actuate if your hand is on it.

If all is well but the solenoids don't open, you should be able to ground the other wire to the solenoids (one at a time. See if the solenoid passes vacuum after being grounded). This makes sense if you know that the computer sends a ground pulse to actuate the solenoids.

Random thoughts on things I'd check.
Good luck.

 

[mustangt562]

As mentioned, the puter does NOT know if you even have a smog pump in the car. All it sees is the presence of the TAB and TAD. There are electrical connectors going to these from the puter, hence their importance. Otherwise, the computer has no idea if you have any lines connected, an air pump, a gerbil on a wheel, or anything else.

See if your solenoids get 12 volts with the key on. Also see if there is manifold vac to the solenoids. Then ensure the vac line to the valves are in good shape (no leaks). I have tesed the valves (in the air pump discharge hose, running along the passenger side of the engine bay) by simply sucking on the vac line to the valve. You can feel the valve actuate if your hand is on it.

If all is well but the solenoids don't open, you should be able to ground the other wire to the solenoids (one at a time. See if the solenoid passes vacuum after being grounded). This makes sense if you know that the computer sends a ground pulse to actuate the solenoids.

Random thoughts on things I'd check.
Good luck.

Thanks Hissin I really appreciate your input. Where can I locate these solenoids. Do you have a diagram of how it looks or where to look? Thanks bro

 

[HISSIN50]

Look inside the passenger fender and see if you have this stuff (Picture is courtesy of Adrenalin ):

 

[mustangt562]

Look inside the passenger fender and see if you have this stuff (Picture is courtesy of Adrenalin ):

Hissin you are my guardian angel!!

Ok 2 more questions.

1. is there a way to plug those 3 plugs to make the computer think it is pluged in and working?

2. if not where can I find those solonoids and are they expensive?

again Hissin your the best bro you always answer my post with sold responses. if you were near Long Beach, CA. I would buy you 2 beers!

 

[HISSIN50]

1. is there a way to plug those 3 plugs to make the computer think it is pluged in and working?

2. if not where can I find those solonoids and are they expensive?

again Hissin your the best bro you always answer my post with sold responses. if you were near Long Beach, CA. I would buy you 2 beers!

Thank you for the kind words.

I wasn't sure if you have the solenoids but think they're broken, or if you don't need that stuff (you're in the Military, etc), so here's a little info either way:

If you do not have a smog pump or cats anymore, those solenoids have no point. If you have cats and a smog pump, I would just get the stuff you're missing (I can crank out a list of the entire system if you need it for comparison). I figured you had all the emissions stuff since you're in Cali but I really don't know your situation.
I'd just get the parts from the classifieds - people unload the stuff cheap.

If you don't have cats or a pump, the following info is something I have not tried but could work (it comes from JRichker, who makes me look like a piker). He recommends an 82 ohm, 2 watt wirewound resistor. source. This should make the computer happy since it wont see an open circuit anymore.

Now if you have solenoids and think the system should be functional, I'dcheck for key-on 12 volts to each solenoid.

I'd add that you can turn the smog solenoid crap off with a Tweecer (no more code). Or a chip burner should be able to as well (if you ever have other chip work done, it might be worth having the function turned off if you desire).

Good luck.

 

[mustangt562]

Thank you for the kind words.

I wasn't sure if you have the solenoids but think they're broken, or if you don't need that stuff (you're in the Military, etc), so here's a little info either way:

If you do not have a smog pump or cats anymore, those solenoids have no point. If you have cats and a smog pump, I would just get the stuff you're missing (I can crank out a list of the entire system if you need it for comparison). I figured you had all the emissions stuff since you're in Cali but I really don't know your situation.
I'd just get the parts from the classifieds - people unload the stuff cheap.

If you don't have cats or a pump, the following info is something I have not tried but could work (it comes from JRichker, who makes me look like a piker). He recommends an 82 ohm, 2 watt wirewound resistor. source. This should make the computer happy since it wont see an open circuit anymore.

Now if you have solenoids and think the system should be functional, I'dcheck for key-on 12 volts to each solenoid.

I'd add that you can turn the smog solenoid crap off with a Tweecer (no more code). Or a chip burner should be able to as well (if you ever have other chip work done, it might be worth having the function turned off if you desire).

Good luck.

Thanks Hissin

I actually have all my smog equip but I think those solenoid in the picture you posted are toast so I just need to replace them. but they are a bi**c to find. the dealer here dont even have those things so im on a hunt for them right now. When my smog stuff is working my car is actually cleaner than when these babys rolled off the assembly line. But thanks to you I atliest know up from down and left from right. Thanks for your help bro I really appreciate it

also i did a search on air/oil seperators and just got a steeda one thanks to one of your posts........thanks again hehe

 

[mojopony]

I got the same codes (314 & 311) plus a 332 for insufficient EGR flow. Thanks to this forum I have a much better handle on what to check. The last time I went to state inspection (this was before I was getting codes) the inspector couldn't believe how clean it ran considering the mods I've done.

 

[mojopony]

I tried applying vacuum to the EGR valve nipple (me sucking on a hose) and noticed a decrease in idle RPM. I'm getting the feeling that my source vacuum is leaking somewhere, but to be thorough I'll check the operation of the solenoids anyway as well as do a little suck test on the bypass and diverter valves. I just put a new catted H-pipe on and I don't want to mess up the cats, plus I have to get it through emissions testing. I understand that the thermactor system is separate from the EGR, but its kinda coincidental that all three codes showed up around the same time.

 

[mojopony]

On an sn95 what's the easiest way to gain access to the solenoids? It appears that everything is stuffed inside the fenderwell. My smog pump seems to be a pumpin' since its blastin' air out of the bypass. By applying vacuum to the TAB (suckin' on a rubber hose) I can definitely feel the transition from venting to the atmosphere and not venting at all. The peculiar thing is that it vents full time with the stock vacuum lines connected. I don't know if the TAD is working or not. I couldn't notice a thing when I applied vacuum to it (other than it tasted like $h*t) and I've got no vacuum at all getting to the EGR valve. If I apply vacuum (suckin' on that hose again) the idle RPM decreases quite a bit so I'm gonna rule out the EGR valve itself. I've gotta be either losing vacuum or the solenoid circuits are at fault. My vacuum gauge showed a miniscule amount of vacuum at the TAB/TAD valves, like somewhere around only 1 or 2 inches depending on engine RPM.

 

[cjones]

Hissin you are my guardian angel!!

Ok 2 more questions.

1. is there a way to plug those 3 plugs to make the computer think it is pluged in and working?

2. if not where can I find those solonoids and are they expensive?

again Hissin your the best bro you always answer my post with sold responses. if you were near Long Beach, CA. I would buy you 2 beers!

actually the comp reads the O2 sensors to see if the AIR is working. those codes are set when the computer does not see full lean conditions(on O2 sensors) when testing the AIR [note: you have seperate codes for left and right banks, the solenoid only sends vacuum to AIR-D(for direction to cats or engine) and AIR-B (for direction to AIR-D or Atmosphere)]

if your car is not fully warmed up when you run the test you may get a false code 311 and 314

check the vacuum at the soleniod(lower port) should be manifold vacuum. then check vacuum at the AIR-D valve and AIR-B valve(not solenoids) when running KOER and see if you have vacuum there.

don't mean to step on any toes but wanted to get it clairfied.

 

[mojopony]

When I check for vacuum during KOER at the TAB/TAD valves I'm getting around 1 - 2 inches at the diverter and 1 - 2 inches at the bypass, but if I break the vacuum connection at the junction and supply a separate vacuum source I'm getting about 5 inches at the diverter and 13 inches at the bypass. When I hook the stock connections back up I'm back down to only 1 or 2 inches at both valves. Also, with stock connections the bypass constantly vents during the KOER test. If I disconnect the TAB vacuum line and manually apply vacuum I can feel the change with my hand from venting to not venting. I think I'm losing a lot of vacuum through the pink (beige, whatever) plastic tube at the union where the upper red, green and pink tubes mate up to the lower red, green and pink tubes. I would also tend to think that I'd be getting different codes if the solenoids were at fault. During the KOER tests I had very abrupt changes in vacuum signal which would lead me to believe that the solenoids have some functionality. NE1 know where I can buy replacement vacuum tubes? The colored plastic ones?

 

[cjones]

Mojopony:

sounds like you could just redo the vacuum hoses with rubber vacuum hose. sounds like the original hoses have gone bad. i've replaced the plastic with rubber hoses on many different cars and never had a problem.

 

[AUDACIOUS1]

I also have the 332 for insufficient EGR flow error code, but not the other ones. Started getting check engine light after intake swap could it be a leak or something

 

[cjones]

I also have the 332 for insufficient EGR flow error code, but not the other ones. Started getting check engine light after intake swap could it be a leak or something

here's a write up i did awhile ago:

EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 2-5 in vacuum