Trouble codes 311 & 314?

[AUDACIOUS1]

Thanks Cjones

I will give that a try

 

[mojopony]

So the vacuum signal from the EVR solenoid should read between 2 - 5 inches? How much vacuum should be present from the TAB/TAD solenoids? I'm pretty convinced that I'm going to have to run all new hoses for the TAB/TAD and EGR which shouldn't be all that big a deal. I don't think my bypass valve is getting enough vacuum to operate it. The bypass is constantly venting to the atmosphere.

 

[cjones]

So the vacuum signal from the EVR solenoid should read between 2 - 5 inches? How much vacuum should be present from the TAB/TAD solenoids? I'm pretty convinced that I'm going to have to run all new hoses for the TAB/TAD and EGR which shouldn't be all that big a deal. I don't think my bypass valve is getting enough vacuum to operate it. The bypass is constantly venting to the atmosphere.

it doesn't say specifically for the AIR what the vacuum should be but, all the tests for it use 15 inches of vacuum.

 

[HISSIN50]

You can use a Mitivac to open an A.I.R. valve. Note the minimum vacuum required for activation. Now leave the gauge inline (or remember what it was before) to see if you even have enough vac [from the solenoid] to open the valve.

 

[Road_Runna]

Someone on allfordsmustang wrote this:

All Right Sports fans NO MORE ENGINE LIGHT!

I followed the vacuum lines under to the junction or source under the right front fender. In order to do this I had to remove the fender inner wall to check the vacuum lines. The problem was in the junction or the 3 hose connector that was located directly under the Air Intake Tube. Before tracing back to the source I could only check one connection at a time, after starting from the source the problem was in the 3 HOSE UNION! I put some clear silicon on each of the connections, let it dry and drove the car. NO MORE ENGINE LIGHT!
THANKS NOSLOW I appreciate your help! Flowmaster Cat Back System on the way!
______ ____________ ____________ __________ __________ ________

I believe that's what they were talking about, anyone fix code 332 yet?

 

[HISSIN50]

RR, if that's your picture (holding the hoses), then no. You're holding the smog pump discharge lines (with the TAB and TAD, or AIR1 and AIR2 in SN95 nomenclature).

If you look near the back of your alternator (IIRC), you will see the hard plastic vacuum lines (smaller than a #2 pencil diameter) that they were talking about. There's a funny little junction block/holder that they go into.

Good luck.

 

[Road_Runna]

Do'hh (regariding the picture), will replace the plastic vacuum tubes tonight.
Thanks Hissin.