More specifically (and where L420 was going), did you remove the TAB/TAD? The car doesnt know if there is an AIR pump present.
Good luck.
As mentioned, the puter does NOT know if you even have a smog pump in the car. All it sees is the presence of the TAB and TAD. There are electrical connectors going to these from the puter, hence their importance. Otherwise, the computer has no idea if you have any lines connected, an air pump, a gerbil on a wheel, or anything else.
See if your solenoids get 12 volts with the key on. Also see if there is manifold vac to the solenoids. Then ensure the vac line to the valves are in good shape (no leaks). I have tesed the valves (in the air pump discharge hose, running along the passenger side of the engine bay) by simply sucking on the vac line to the valve. You can feel the valve actuate if your hand is on it.
If all is well but the solenoids don't open, you should be able to ground the other wire to the solenoids (one at a time. See if the solenoid passes vacuum after being grounded). This makes sense if you know that the computer sends a ground pulse to actuate the solenoids.
Random thoughts on things I'd check.
Good luck.
Look inside the passenger fender and see if you have this stuff (Picture is courtesy of Adrenalin ):
1. is there a way to plug those 3 plugs to make the computer think it is pluged in and working?
2. if not where can I find those solonoids and are they expensive?
again Hissin your the best bro you always answer my post with sold responses. if you were near Long Beach, CA. I would buy you 2 beers!
Thank you for the kind words.
I wasn't sure if you have the solenoids but think they're broken, or if you don't need that stuff (you're in the Military, etc), so here's a little info either way:
If you do not have a smog pump or cats anymore, those solenoids have no point. If you have cats and a smog pump, I would just get the stuff you're missing (I can crank out a list of the entire system if you need it for comparison). I figured you had all the emissions stuff since you're in Cali but I really don't know your situation.
I'd just get the parts from the classifieds - people unload the stuff cheap.
If you don't have cats or a pump, the following info is something I have not tried but could work (it comes from JRichker, who makes me look like a piker). He recommends an 82 ohm, 2 watt wirewound resistor. source. This should make the computer happy since it wont see an open circuit anymore.
Now if you have solenoids and think the system should be functional, I'dcheck for key-on 12 volts to each solenoid.
I'd add that you can turn the smog solenoid crap off with a Tweecer (no more code). Or a chip burner should be able to as well (if you ever have other chip work done, it might be worth having the function turned off if you desire).
Good luck.
Hissin you are my guardian angel!!
Ok 2 more questions.
1. is there a way to plug those 3 plugs to make the computer think it is pluged in and working?
2. if not where can I find those solonoids and are they expensive?
again Hissin your the best bro you always answer my post with sold responses. if you were near Long Beach, CA. I would buy you 2 beers!
I also have the 332 for insufficient EGR flow error code, but not the other ones. Started getting check engine light after intake swap could it be a leak or something
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