trying to get weight of car down is impossible!!!

ADRENLN

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Apr 16, 2003

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NJ

Jun 28, 2006

#21

• Jun 28, 2006

• #21

you guys are right i will def. need better traction. i just hate to put all the weight back on. after all that i will prolly weigh more then a cobra. especially with the p-51.

 

hognutz

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Jun 28, 2006

#22

• Jun 28, 2006

• #22

hotmustang331 said:

^Im not so sure about that. Iv seen beetles run low 11s and pull the front wheels with some kind of slicks that were about 5 inchs wide. Look at bikes...9.90s and 0 traction problems.

Less overall weight = easier for the tires to push car.

Click to expand...

I would agree if money is no object there are just trade offs to a daily driven car and wieght reduction one of them is cost the other is just reduced options and comfort.

bikes have a wicked power to wieght ratio so you can't really use them as an example. I mean you can buy 9 second bikes stock.

 

hognutz

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#23

• Jun 28, 2006

• #23

ADRENLN said:

you guys are right i will def. need better traction. i just hate to put all the weight back on. after all that i will prolly weigh more then a cobra. especially with the p-51.

Click to expand...

why do you want the p-51 so bad if you are going boosted? is you shortblock forged right now? I mean you can be well over safe power levels on the platic intake. I saw a dyno with a novi 2k at like 600hp with stock intake, heads, and cams if I remeber right. it may have had a plenum though. If you are really worried about wieght I would either run a centri and keep the plastic intake or run a twin screw. minimize the amount of added wieght.

 

Green&GoldGT

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Aug 1, 2005

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Jun 28, 2006

#24

• Jun 28, 2006

• #24

You should just do a battery relocation to the rear. Have u taken out your windshield washer fluid system or at least drained it?

 

DropTopPony

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#25

• Jun 28, 2006

• #25

Go for the aluminum block...if you get a newer block like an explorer not a Teksid i'm pretty sure its a direct swap unlike my ventures in Teksid land. That will offset the blower/P-51 weight somewhat.
My blower weighs @50lbs but i'm dropping 80lbs with the alum block.

 

hotmustang331

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Apr 29, 2004

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Jun 28, 2006

#26

• Jun 28, 2006

• #26

Cobras weight 3665#s. You dont have to worry about your GT outweighing those lol.

I used bikes because they have the power to run 9.90s, yet dont have traction issues. But you are right in the fact that they dont make much power.

Although I have seen 500HP bikes go from a 60 roll W/O any traction problems...whereas a 500HP car will spin and it has 4 times the rubber on the ground. Just seems like lighter cars hook up better .

Stock PI intake can handle at least 17.5PSI....and its been tested to 22PSI. But some have lost them in the 20PSI range. Adrenln, you can hit your 500RWHP goal EASILY with the stock PI intake.

 

ADRENLN

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Apr 16, 2003

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Jun 29, 2006

#27

• Jun 29, 2006

• #27

thanks guys. that is some useful info. i dont have a built block yet but will be getting one before the blower install. dont need the p-51 but i liked it and thought it would be good so i wouldnt have to worry about cracking the plastic one all the time.

i know pi intakes have been tested to withstand high hp bu i also have heard of then cracking under na applications. plus i figured it would add some power.

i would love to go the aluminum blocy route to off set the weight of the blower and intake somwhat but i dont whant to be replacing the timing cover, mainstuds are different, oil pump gears...

i just heard i would need all those things and plus the additional cost. however, if you are right about the explorer block being a direct swap then i will heavily consider it.
i have to find out more about this.

 

squares98

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Jun 29, 2006

#28

• Jun 29, 2006

• #28

the explorer block is a direct swap

 

tomustang

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#29

• Jun 29, 2006

• #29

squares98 said:

aluminum block: -75lbs.

Click to expand...

forged crank to go with the rebuild +80lbs

 

tomustang

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#30

• Jun 29, 2006

• #30

hmm, lets see..

under the steering panel, there's a steel plate you can remove ~2-3lbs

gut the whole stereo system, add a headunit and 4 6X9's, save about 50+ lbs

remove back interior side panels (doesn't look that bad either)

remove center coloum, make a small platform for your switches/cupholder

 

ADRENLN

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#31

• Jun 29, 2006

• #31

holy _ _ _ _ ! a forged crank is 80lbs? i guess the cobra crank is the same thing and just as heavet huh?

 

DropTopPony

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#32

• Jun 29, 2006

• #32

ADRENLN said:

holy _ _ _ _ ! a forged crank is 80lbs? i guess the cobra crank is the same thing and just as heavet huh?

Click to expand...

i'll have to weigh mine

 

ADRENLN

Active Member

Apr 16, 2003

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NJ

Jun 29, 2006

#33

• Jun 29, 2006

• #33

why would the forged crank weigh that much more? i figure that the cobra crank is bigger so it would more then the stock gt crank. it cant be 80 lbs MORE then standerd crank.

 

hotmustang331

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#34

• Jun 29, 2006

• #34

^ I SERIOUSLY doubt it. It should only be maybe 30#s heavier I think.

 

DropTopPony

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#35

• Jun 29, 2006

• #35

no i doubt its more then 10 lbs or so heavier.

 

Back2Mustangs

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Jun 29, 2006

#36

• Jun 29, 2006

• #36

stangGT97 said:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=776885&page=1

definite pot roast but funny no less

Click to expand...

Did anyone read the link posted on the first page... Pure comedy!

Per the above link:

"Step 3: Stripped Interior - Ask anyone who has ever drag raced Mom's Accord and you'll learn our next trick. A stripped interior not only saves 273 lbs, it also lets everyone know you're serious. Many amateur drag racers stop at simply removing the passenger's seat and spare tire, but we remove everything: headliner, sunroof, carpet, dashboard, six-disc in-dash CD changer. For expediency, we leave the tar paper stuck to the floorboards, but Mr. To Race will find another 15 lbs of weight savings if he takes the time to chisel it off. As an added bonus, we also remove the antenna to reduce aerodynamic drag. The mods are good for another 0.5-second improvement."



As far as the whole weight reduction on a Mustang goes, I've learned that you can only shave a few hundred pounds without sacrificing comfort and looks. I've also learned from all of my Mustangs that you're better off working on getting the weight distribution as close to 50/50 as possible. I think your best bet is to put your jack, spare, and battery back in the trunk and get a lighter hood, tube k-member/a-arms/coil-overs, and start your bottom end build up with an aluminum block. If you are really serious, you can dump the hydro-boost(brake/power-steering) pump and go manual brakes/manual rack-n-pinion. With a rear-seat delete(and I'm not certain that removing that weight is positive in terms of weight distribution), lighter front seats and the Alum. DS it sounds like you've gone about as far as you can go for big reductions in weight.

But I can offer one priceless bit of advice: If you put any more weight in the front, with all the weight taken out of the rear-half of that car...Don't drive it in the rain!!