trying to use 1979 clutch facing and pressure plate on 1978 flywheel

Trademarkmachine

New Member
Apr 1, 2018
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I have the 1979 clutch kit and comparing the old 78 and the new 79 all looks the same size. So I think all will fit.
I know I will need to redrill the flywheel.
Question I have is:
Does the 1979 use dowel pins to locate the pressure plate to flywheel?
I looked at a few you tube vids and they said the 79 pressure plate was aligned with the bolts?

I could just use the old pressure plate and the new clutch disc. But would rather put in all new if possible.
 
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As far as I know Ford's been using dowel pins to positively locate pressure plates since the 60's, and '79 was no exception.

There are listed as fitting '79-'04. https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-cl...af7GtqO-62zppoBLRB_LXh5Bo7DFdRvYaAo8IEALw_wcB

If your bolts have a smooth shoulder that fits very snugly into the pressure plate holes then you might not technically need dowels. If your pressure plate has holes in it for dowels, then you might as well add them. If your bolts don't have a shoulder and / or don't fit very snugly into the pressure plate then you will absolutely need them for reasonable clutch-life and performance.

If you're having the flywheel redrilled already, I'm sure it won't trouble the machine shop too much to add the dowels.
 
I redrilled the 78 flywheel to match the 79 clutch.
Had to remove the ring gear. the new holes break into the ring gear area slightly. (i was going to flip it anyway)
I did not use dowel pins. There did not seem to be a place for them on the pressure plate.
the new pressure plate bolts have a shoulder on them. So I figure this would locate the pressure plate as well as dowel pins.
So it is all in the car . But have not driven it yet.

Still have the cnc program if you want to do one.

I will keep you informed.
 
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Good information! If there are no holes for dowel pins, and the bolts are shouldered and fit snugly into the holes in the pressure plate, then you're in good shape as far as positively locating the plate on the flywheel. This would be very good information for folks looking for a V8 clutch replacement as they're pretty much impossible to find.
 
Hi, I'm new to the forum but have lurked here for a couple years. I used to be on mustangii.net. I'm in the middle of a total rebuild and am very close to driving the old 76 Cobraii.
I'm very interested in the final result of this thread. I have the very same predicament and would love to know if this worked out well or if you would recommend going a different route?
 
would love to know if this worked out well

I to am thinking about m2 clutch options.
Classic auto reproductions has this now but will still need drilled for dowel pins



1975-1978 Mustang II V8 Clutch
$ 359.64
Specifically made for the Mustang II

Stage 1: Street, Drag, Drift, Road Race, Rallye, Pulling, Autocross
Features an integrally molded carbon Kevlar-based, high performance organic lining that offers smooth engagement and excellent life. This lining has an integrally bonded steel backing for strength under high clamp loads and temperatures. The hub is double sprung or rigid (application dependent) with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Best for street and many track/off-road applications.
This new clutch will align with the stock bolt pattern but new dowel pins must be drilled to accommodate the difference in location. When it comes to the machining work we will be offering this service as well but it is also a fairly simple process that most local machine shops can do quickly.
1975-78_Mustang_II_V8_Clutch_1024x1024.png
 
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Sweet! I'm pretty sure that is Slippin Joe from Mustang ii. net. He only lives about 30 miles away. I'm glad I waited before doing more work than was required.
Thank you 2Blue2. Greatly appreciated.
Enzio
 
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I can do better than that. I'll video record the whole thing and post a link if Stangnet will let me do that. I've emailed the vendor and asked if they are in stock and if so will stop by and pick them up.
I'll keep this thread going with the resolution.
 
I'll keep this thread going with the resolution.

right on! I've been thinking 'quicktime t5 and 157 tooth with 10.5' but now all stock might be an cheaper option.
What does the stock76 clutch fork look like? will 79-up fork work in 75-78 bell?
 
Well, it may be a week or more till I can show you a photo. And, I'm hoping for some nice weather in MN so I can get out fishing. So I don't know if a 79 will work. I was thinking the same route with a T5 but am very happy that there is a clutch out there.
Although as long as I have to get the flywheel done anyway; the original results of this thread would be nice to know as the clutch kits on carid for the 79 are a lot cheaper. I don't care as long as I can get it on the road with a reliable clutch.
 
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I don't think the 79 clutch fork will work with the II's bell housing, but I could be wrong. If memory serves, the later one has a bit of an angle to it from the pivot point and throw out bearing area to the clutch cable connection point whereas the II fork is fairly flat. It's been a LONG time since I've had them side by side, so I could be way off base, but I'm sure that they are indeed different.
 
1976, 1979, 1988


s-l1600-10.jpg s-l1600-11.jpg s-l1600-12.jpg
Looks like the 76 doesn't have a z in the part number might not e a mustang ii
 
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Pivot and throw-out bearing distances will be a problem unless you use them with the appropriate bell housing. I knew there was something different between the 2!
 
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Still Searching for Mii 2 manuel trans info.


Quote from 2muchtime......

Nov 27, 2005
its not uncommon with yrs of abuse for the fork to bend forward over time..
i have heard that the clutch your using has a softer feel to it..

this is my clutch fork in good working shape.

Attachments



Bellhousing; ( pictures from eBay with fork hole cut bigger for more travel.)
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